Galgo

I've got a little update. Its not forced induction related this time, but its still part of the build for me.










Real HID Projector conversion. I had to remove the headlight lenses, had everything painted, installed the projectors, and then reinstalled the lenses. These things are bright! I also put LED lights all the way around to give it that crisp modern look.










Rear seat delete and trunk floor cover are about finished.








Interior starting to come together too.

aggie91

Rear seat area looks good. Will that battery pass tech at a track without it being in a box that is vented to outside the passenger compartment?

Galgo

Thanks! I haven't got a clue. I live in a small town where everyone drives lifted diesels and is 3 hours from the nearest track. I will probably only take it to the track a few times. Most of my races will be at a local air strip that doesn't have any type of tech. The cage technically wouldn't pass tech either because I built it to be more 'roomy' and easier to get into and out of the vehicle. The hoop isn't as close to the driver as it should be, and the door bars aren't high enough at the shoulder. It will do the job, but it just isn't quite up to all the racing specs.

Good, bad, or otherwise, its just what I did. I like it even though it has a few flaws. I'm just kind of learning it all as I go and there are a lot of things like that, that I am learning after the fact. This will make a good street car for now and if/when I sell it, I can build something better.

Good catch, sorry for the long reply.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

yep we have done 813whp thru an auto on pumpgas with 80s and a 450 in tank

vinceI

iTrader: (5)

Battery and fuel cell won't pass at a sanctioned track. Car would need a firewall between them and the passenger compartment.

Galgo

That's what I like to hear! I'm only shooting for 600rwhp but it will be interesting to see if I can get there or not with the little old 4.8 In reality I think the only hold up might be the turbo though.

Galgo

Is that at any E.T. level or at faster than x.xx time?

aggie91

Per the NHRA Rule book:

For the Battery,
"All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be
relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear
firewall of .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including
package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch
steel, .032-inch aluminum, or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed
box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure
battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s)
must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of
two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. OEM located batteries without
complete OEM hold-down hardware must be secured to OEM
battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inch-diameter bolt hold-down
method described in previous sentence. (“J” hooks prohibited or
must have open end welded shut.) Metal battery hold-down
straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two
automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined maximum weight
(unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements), is permitted.
Maximums may vary according to Class Requirements."

so, you don't need the firewall, but add a poly box around the battery with a vent tube routed to outside the body.

For your METH tank:
"Aftermarket water-methanol injection systems permitted. Must be
installed and used per manufacturer’s instructions. Tank, pump,
lines, etc. may not be mounted inside the driver compartment. When located inside trunk, a complete bulkhead of at least .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum is required to isolate driver
compartment from trunk."


these items do not depend on ET or Speed.

Galgo

That's good info, thanks! It doesn't really affect me to much since its just a street car but I'll keep that in mind for future builds

Galgo

I got the rear axle rebuilt and strengthened and put under the car. I used Team Z axle truss and braces as well as DA upper and lower arms. Strange SA shocks c-clip eliminators, Moser 31 spline axles and cover, spool and 3.27 gears. Completely rebuilt the front with mostly stock components. After that I have just been working on what seems like thousands of little things to tidy everything up.

I'll post a video of dash command working in the car since I finally got the tablet installed. I also got the hood finally cut and set on the car just for fun. I'll get a cowl hood ordered this week. Now I'm just waiting to get my wheels back from powder coat. I've got an appointment set for May 20th to get tuned so I'm really starting to get excited!






Truss welded on. Had a guy do it that had the correct jig, and I will forever do it that way in the future. It was unbelievable how much an axle moves around with even the slightest welding. There is no way it could be straight without using a jig.





Axle housing all painted. I used epoxy mastic and I'm anxious to see how it holds up.






Gear pattern I ended up with. I know it's not perfect but I couldn't seem to get that text book pattern that is always shown in magazine articles etc. Hopefully it doesn't give me any problems.




C-Clip eliminators installed. Kind of a PITA.






Axle all finished up and ready to go in.








For the record a truck intake WILL NOT fit under the stock Mustang hood with a stock truck oil pan haha








I can't wait to see these mounted. 26x5 MT Sportsman S/R on the front and 275/60r15 MT Street S/S in the back. I went with the Billet Specialties Street Lite wheels. Once I get the wheels in I'll pound out the wheel wells to make them fit.

Galgo

Dash Command Video. Custom built dash command skin on a Lenovo Tab2 A10. Communicates with stock ls truck ECM via Bluetooth on the OBD2 port. Tasker app setup to start Dash Command on key on and then kill it and turn off the screen when key off.



https://youtu.be/wDSjTm0_bfw

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

In for results.

BSmiff

You think you will have issues with truck pan? Every swap Ive ever seen said truck pan was dangerously low.

Galgo

I see where they are coming from on that but I don't feel like it is too low. However, my car isn't lowered at all so that would definitely make a difference. I can get some measurements if you want. I guess it probably all boils down to the combo and usage

Galgo

I finally got the car back out. Runs and drives great. Turns out the rear end originally had a 2.73 gear set and I changed to 3.27. I ended up having to add a bunch of fuel in because it was going lean after the gear change. Seems like hat would be normal but if that sounds weird to anyone please let me know.

It's still too soon to tell if I got the gears setup right, but they aren't making any noise at all and they don't clunk on decel so I'm guessing everything is good.

Pics with new tires and wheels,Billet Specialties Street Lites with custom black powder coating. 15x10 with 6.5" backspace rear with MT Street S/S 275/60R15 and 15x4 with 1.75" backspace front with 26 x 5 R15 MT Sportsman S/R.









Had to clearance wheel wells with BFH.

Galgo

Here's a picture of how low it hangs compared to the k member. It's 1.5" below it

Galgo

Just a little shot from today. I'm loving the way it looks

dmracing

iTrader: (78)

Looking real good. Love the stance

Galgo

Thanks! It will look even better after I get the hood on there and then get it painted

BSmiff

Looks good to me boss man. That thing is going to be a rocket ship. Enjoy.