ARZ

I have done a bunch of searching, and maybe I'm just missing the correct posts, but I haven't seen anyone comment about whether or not they ditch their MAF or do their own tuning.

Is there any need to get rid of the MAF?
Did any of you guys do your own tuning?

I'm pretty a pretty competent fabricator and mechanic, I just have not owned or hot rodded any LS motors.

I am looking to create my own home built single fwd mount turbo setup in a 2006 Silverado 5.3 1500 4wd.

Trust me Ive done a bunch of searching, and I read most of the Stickies, and FAQ's but none of them I found addressed the MAF or what the home builders have done for tuning.

I own EFILive from my efforts on my Duramax trucks, do any of you guys here tune with EFILive? And if what were your results?

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

Tuning will be much easier going speed density. A little more info about your plan for your build would help also

MYSTIC-1SC

iTrader: (14)

Really depends how much power you are trying to make. Most high horsepower boost applications do not use a MAF.

Toes

iTrader: (1)

The reason for ditching the MAF is it won't read well above 5-6 psi of boost. SD you do your tuning with the MAP an your stock sensor will need to be changed out for one that can read a higher bar. If you know efi live I would use that. I used HP tuners with my build. So it depends on your goals.

JoeNova

95% of builds ditch the MAF. Speed density is much much better in most circumstances, and removes the MAF as a restriction.

A large portion of us do our own tuning.

Lots of people use EFI Live for tuning the stock ECU, but I think the majority prefer HPTuners.

ARZ

I plan on this vehicle being a daily driver, so I would like it to have sane boost levels, and just make it overall more pleasurable to drive in traffic.

I would like 400-600 hp out of a home built system. I say 400-600, because I assume there is a natural plateau that going beyond in HP does not make any sense, based on dollars invested, and intent of the vehicle. I have lots of experience with Supras, and 500 whp is a good limit for them, as more than that, you need bigger fuel lines, Injectors, Throttle bodies, Intake and exhaust manifolds, etc.

I'm hoping I can make the 4L60E a bit more responsive too. Its a total turd at freeway speeds if I decide I need a lane right now. Phoenix traffic blows, and so many people see an open lane and put themselves in the fresh air and let a huge gap open up between them and the car ahead all the while they practice the rolling road block with the cars next to them going AT or below the speed limit. I admit I might have my own issues.

As for the large portion of you that do your own tuning, is that something you guys share with each other? I am familiar with pulling timing and establishing PID's in EFI live and a few other features but I have heard you can do some damage quick on a gas motor, and from my Supra experience I definitely have experience with getting a bit too greedy with one more pound of boost, or doing a 1st thru 4th pull with a 1/4 tank of fuel (bad times).

I have some extra parts laying around, a few turbos (60-1, 76mm T4, and a Garrett GT from some OEM industrial something or other in the 500 hp range) a bigger Chinese intercooler, and some intake and exhaust plumbing and all that. and enough skills to assemble all of the pieces, but that doesn't mean I'm going to build everything, if I see a deal Ill definitely buy it.

Hope that answers most of your questions, sincere thanks for the quick replies.

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

Drivability will be perfect using speed density, maybe try to find a tune that someone posted with a similar combo to get you close then slowly tweak from there

JoeNova

Lots of OEM cars are speed density.

You might want to reconsider the 4L60e. Some guys have a lot of luck with them. Some guys break them like twigs.

You can make huge HP numbers on a 100% stock long block. Tuning is key. These motors also respond very well to low timing, which means more boost and more tuning safety. I run 20 PSI on pump gas with 12 degrees of timing on a stock long block. AFR is 11.2-11.4 across the board. Timing is 12 degrees everywhere above 1 bar of boost. Makes insane torque at 3500-4000 RPM.

ARZ

That would be awesome, I hope I can find someone with a similar setup that is willing to share. But if I have to pay a tuner I'm fine with that, as long as I get my moneys worth.

Why does every body call it speed density? Am I correct in stating:
MAF = Hotwire Mass Air Flow? (What my 2006 Silverado has from the factory) and
MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (Speed Density)?

If that's correct I wonder why people don't say MAF vs MAP? Seems ike it would be a whole lot quicker.

It looks like the trans cross member has been tampered with, so it might have had the transmission messed with recently. Can I do a Transgo shift kit on it like I did my Allison in my Duramax? Either way I have a friend of a friend with a Transmission shop, hopefully he will have some options for me. I have seen some used junkyard transmissions for cheap, I might get one and have it built before hand. My current transmission shifts almost imperceptibly even at WOT. I kinda wish it hit the shifts a bit harder. If I did want to go 4L80E is that a common endeavor? Is it simple enough to make the 4L80E work?

My biggest worry is, I live in the Phoenix area, where IAT's are as much as 140F without forced induction, and I would like this set up to be reliable as a daily driver. Hoping 400-500 in a safe streetable tune is possible.

This motor has a bit over 200k on it now, but I have seen long and short blocks for super cheap, so I might get an extra one of those too. Im guessing decreasing the compression would make the motor live a bit longer. Is that advised? If so which method is the best? Head gaskets or dished pistons? If I went with pistons, do these motors last without balancing everything within a gnats ***?

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

4l80 is a very simple swap and a great idea, I broke 2 60s before I switched. You don't need to do much to an 80 to make it bullet proof at your power level. Better idea imo than the 60. You need an adapter wiring harness, cross member, and a hammer to beat on the tunnel a little. A segment swap in the tune which you or your tuner can do as well

JoeNova

ARZ, don't overcomplicate it. Thats the biggest mistake most people make.

A stock longblock can handle 500 HP on a good tune very very easily. This includes the older engines with gen 3 rods, and even 200k+ mile longblocks (which are actually recommended). Since your engine has gen 4 rods, it'll shrug off 500 HP like its stock.

A 60e will need upgrades to handle 500 HP, and even then it seems to be a crapshoot. A stock 80e that is in good working condition with a Transgo kit can handle ~800 HP or so depending on RPM/Weight, etc.

I don't know too many people with EFI-Live, but there are TONS of HPTuners tunes floating around out here for free, as well as Microsquirt tunes. These will at least get it fired up and running on low boost with large injectors.

As far as compression goes, your climate is hotter than mine, but I'm running 10:1 compression and haven't had any issues yet.

ARZ

Really a 1500 doesn't have enough room for a 4L80E, I would have definitely guessed that in an F body, but a truck?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I'll be doing a SD tune when my turbo kit goes in. With an SD tune can I drive around in hot south Florida weather....then take a drive up to say North Carolina in the extremely cold winter and not have to do anything....? It all compensates just fine...?

.

Bad Apache

Should fit no problem at all.

Bad Apache

Yes, the tune/ecu will compensate for changes in temperature..

JoeNova

I don't have an F body, and if I did, it would have significantly less room than a truck.

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

A bunch of us run 80s in these cars. A little massaging and I cut a small hole in the tunnel to make it easy to plug the main harness in.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

The MAF is definately a restriction even at lower hp levels. On a 99 vette we did at the shop, P1 at 11lbs of boost and full exhaust. The car was tuned in SD COS w/ HPT. The MAF was left in place because we didn't have any couplers the right size at the time. Removed the MAF and installed a straight coupler and picked up 32rwhp with no other changes, back to back runs. Car ended up making 555 to the tire.