Street tires that hook
04-10-2016, 09:20 PM
#61
Originally Posted by 69-chvl
Wanted to update my experience with the Toyo TQ's - so far they seem to be working excellent, especially considering that it's 45* outside and there still salt dust on the road from a dam snow storm yesterday! Not to mention I'm driving around with 28 psi in the tires and not heating them up. I can spin them off the line a bit but then it grabs and goes. Held 16 psi up top but the boost control ramped that in later in the MPH curve.
Excited to see how these will do when the ambient climb a bit and the roads a clear from salt/dust!!!
Excited to see how these will do when the ambient climb a bit and the roads a clear from salt/dust!!!
04-11-2016, 09:36 AM
#62
I know man this **** is getting old here in the northeast. At least its raining, some of this salt should start to dissolve and wash away.
Thanks ocss, you helped me make the choice lol!
These damn 6.0's make so much tq off the line that its hard to control the power delivery. The loose converter is just letting the engine get up into its powerband fast and tires just have a hard time. Thing is, I'm running factory 16x7.5 or 8" not sure, so I have to run a somewhat narrower tire than I'd like. To go with a wider tire I would have to replace all the wheels and not sure if I want to get into all that just yet. If these prove to work nicely on the street at least, I may invest in another set of wheels for the rear and get a real tire for race day.
Otherwise, I may try a lighter springs in the gate for now and see what happens. Will wait for warmer temps first though.
Thanks ocss, you helped me make the choice lol!
These damn 6.0's make so much tq off the line that its hard to control the power delivery. The loose converter is just letting the engine get up into its powerband fast and tires just have a hard time. Thing is, I'm running factory 16x7.5 or 8" not sure, so I have to run a somewhat narrower tire than I'd like. To go with a wider tire I would have to replace all the wheels and not sure if I want to get into all that just yet. If these prove to work nicely on the street at least, I may invest in another set of wheels for the rear and get a real tire for race day.
Otherwise, I may try a lighter springs in the gate for now and see what happens. Will wait for warmer temps first though.
08-20-2016, 05:56 AM
#65
Bringing this back up after getting some more time/miles on these Toyo Poxxes. I dont like them! They are unpredictable during hard acceleration. You start off ok and then when the boost starts ramping in hard around 50+ mph the car starts to break loose and starts to go sideways requiring me to pedal it. I dont do burnouts to clean the tires off or anything, just rolling into the throttle which should allow them to get a bite. Only start out with 7psi and ramp it up to anywhere from 12-17psi, and will break loose at any of those boost settings.
These are 255/50/16's with about 1000 miles.
So I have another question. Could the converter be excessively loose exacerbating the issue? Never had this issue with the MT tires which I think I'm going back to
These are 255/50/16's with about 1000 miles.
So I have another question. Could the converter be excessively loose exacerbating the issue? Never had this issue with the MT tires which I think I'm going back to
08-20-2016, 04:38 PM
#66
I'm still on the same pair of nitro 555r from last year. 4k miles
Rolling 35mph 2step/boosted launch, the car nor the tires are ******* around right there.
Best street tire hands down still
Rolling 35mph 2step/boosted launch, the car nor the tires are ******* around right there.
Best street tire hands down still
08-20-2016, 05:21 PM
#67
Ive got a pair of the Nitto 555r (275/60-15) tires on my Nova and I'm very happy with them so far. What's done to the OPs car suspension wise? You can't expect to consistently (if at all) put down that kind of power with factory suspension. Ive seen many times that someone blames the tires when they're trying to put really good power to the street or track and have substandard suspension. There's a point where power management comes in, but you've got to give the car a fighting chance with some good parts. I was once told "The shocks are just as important as the cam you spent 3 months trying to decide on." And it's true. Springs hold the car up, Its the shocks that make the most difference. Not sayin you need Santhuffs or Menscers, but put the best you can afford.
08-20-2016, 07:41 PM
#68
Originally Posted by 69-chvl
Bringing this back up after getting some more time/miles on these Toyo Poxxes. I dont like them! They are unpredictable during hard acceleration. You start off ok and then when the boost starts ramping in hard around 50+ mph the car starts to break loose and starts to go sideways requiring me to pedal it. I dont do burnouts to clean the tires off or anything, just rolling into the throttle which should allow them to get a bite. Only start out with 7psi and ramp it up to anywhere from 12-17psi, and will break loose at any of those boost settings.
These are 255/50/16's with about 1000 miles.
So I have another question. Could the converter be excessively loose exacerbating the issue? Never had this issue with the MT tires which I think I'm going back to
These are 255/50/16's with about 1000 miles.
So I have another question. Could the converter be excessively loose exacerbating the issue? Never had this issue with the MT tires which I think I'm going back to
08-20-2016, 08:25 PM
#69
I'm going to have to jump on the Nitto555 bandwagon. They are a great street tire. As drag radials go, they leave too much on the table, but they won't kill you on wet roads like an MT DR. They also aren't nearly as heat sensitive as the NT01's I currently run on the street. The NT01's have great traction when hot, but are hard as hell cold.
08-20-2016, 10:11 PM
#70
TECH Fanatic
That is EXACTLY what the mikeys do. Nothing you can do but carry water around with you and be ready to do burnouts to clean them off.
08-20-2016, 10:12 PM
#71
TECH Fanatic
08-21-2016, 04:54 AM
#72
The toyo proxes tq work awesome on my 6 speed car. I don't spin even from a 1st gear roll as long as its not cold out. It all depends on your suspension though. With my auto car I can't hook even a 3rd gear roll at 60 mph with 15 psi on 275 MT drag radials. Like the other guys said though you won't hook big power on the street without some type of boost ramp rates or timing. I can hook 1st gear on the street at only 10 psi and it feels plenty fast to me on the street. As soon as you upset the tire from too sudden of a change you're done.
08-21-2016, 07:29 AM
#73
My suspension may be part of the issue. Mostly stock 96 Stang. Front suspension stock including 6 cyl springs. Rear upper and lower control arms, reinforced tq boxes. Stock springs and shocks. I am ramping boost in, I mean by 60-70 the dam car should be hooked-up I'm thinking.
Reason I mention the converter is b/c I have a cheaper unit that is a little more slippery than an expensive unit. I had the PTC $1k unit and it really seemed to calm the car down...in a good way. Perhaps they put the power down better???
The thing that has me perplexed though, is that from a stop and a jab of the throttle, I start smoking the tires before boost even builds!!!
I dunno. Maybe I should drive around with a slick lol! I going to replace all the wheels with 17" units which I know isnt the most ideal for racing, but I will be able to get a 315 tire in there now, and I will be able to upgrade all the brakes with Cobra parts. Just trying to make a decision again with tires. Just torn with the 555's and another set of MT's. I think Rotary was on to something when he stated that the M/T's feather/ball-up and need a burn-out to clean-up. I dont want to do a burn-out everything I want to make a WOT pass somewhere lol!!!
Reason I mention the converter is b/c I have a cheaper unit that is a little more slippery than an expensive unit. I had the PTC $1k unit and it really seemed to calm the car down...in a good way. Perhaps they put the power down better???
The thing that has me perplexed though, is that from a stop and a jab of the throttle, I start smoking the tires before boost even builds!!!
I dunno. Maybe I should drive around with a slick lol! I going to replace all the wheels with 17" units which I know isnt the most ideal for racing, but I will be able to get a 315 tire in there now, and I will be able to upgrade all the brakes with Cobra parts. Just trying to make a decision again with tires. Just torn with the 555's and another set of MT's. I think Rotary was on to something when he stated that the M/T's feather/ball-up and need a burn-out to clean-up. I dont want to do a burn-out everything I want to make a WOT pass somewhere lol!!!
08-21-2016, 09:23 AM
#74
You've got a car that makes an honest 7-800+ crank horsepower (probably more) and it won't hook on stock suspension? Get outta here! Does that even sound right? Put some suspension on the car before you hurt yourself or someone else. Don't mess with power management until you do. JMO.
08-21-2016, 10:04 AM
#75
Never have gone from dig, doubt we'll, would have to be very soft leave.
Don't use at track, if I go to the track I have a set of ETR radials or slicks
These 555 are just about to the wear bar now and i still don't notice a difference in grip, tons of heat cycles, and never once have done a burnout to clean the **** off
Don't use at track, if I go to the track I have a set of ETR radials or slicks
These 555 are just about to the wear bar now and i still don't notice a difference in grip, tons of heat cycles, and never once have done a burnout to clean the **** off
08-21-2016, 11:40 AM
#76
Originally Posted by 3 window
You've got a car that makes an honest 7-800+ crank horsepower (probably more) and it won't hook on stock suspension? Get outta here! Does that even sound right? Put some suspension on the car before you hurt yourself or someone else. Don't mess with power management until you do. JMO.
08-21-2016, 02:06 PM
#78
I did a search at Autozone and it appears the v6 and v8 cars use the same front springs.
But I was under the impression that using a set of "lighter" springs was beneficial for weight transfer??? I guess I could look into a set of drag shocks also to aid in transfer. Strange has a set of adjustable struts for like $120/ea. Not sure what to do about the front springs. I can also go with a drag shock in the rear.
But I was under the impression that using a set of "lighter" springs was beneficial for weight transfer??? I guess I could look into a set of drag shocks also to aid in transfer. Strange has a set of adjustable struts for like $120/ea. Not sure what to do about the front springs. I can also go with a drag shock in the rear.
08-21-2016, 07:03 PM
#79
I did a search at Autozone and it appears the v6 and v8 cars use the same front springs.
But I was under the impression that using a set of "lighter" springs was beneficial for weight transfer??? I guess I could look into a set of drag shocks also to aid in transfer. Strange has a set of adjustable struts for like $120/ea. Not sure what to do about the front springs. I can also go with a drag shock in the rear.
But I was under the impression that using a set of "lighter" springs was beneficial for weight transfer??? I guess I could look into a set of drag shocks also to aid in transfer. Strange has a set of adjustable struts for like $120/ea. Not sure what to do about the front springs. I can also go with a drag shock in the rear.
08-21-2016, 07:58 PM
#80
Originally Posted by 69-chvl
I did a search at Autozone and it appears the v6 and v8 cars use the same front springs.
But I was under the impression that using a set of "lighter" springs was beneficial for weight transfer??? I guess I could look into a set of drag shocks also to aid in transfer. Strange has a set of adjustable struts for like $120/ea. Not sure what to do about the front springs. I can also go with a drag shock in the rear.
But I was under the impression that using a set of "lighter" springs was beneficial for weight transfer??? I guess I could look into a set of drag shocks also to aid in transfer. Strange has a set of adjustable struts for like $120/ea. Not sure what to do about the front springs. I can also go with a drag shock in the rear.