Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

I still got to talk to him about doing mine, but I'm not going to be in a hurry, so sometime this winter it will happen. I've got my truck for sale right now to help fund the build. I think once I sell my current heads, cam, headers, dual exhaust setup, current injectors, I'll have quite a bit of money to put toward the build.

Troy5061

iTrader: (19)

Just made 675whp through an unlocked 4L80e and 4wd truck driveline on a stang banga dyno with a conservative tune and a t4 s475/83. $815 shipped when I bought it. I think locked up and after I fix my issues should get close to 750-770

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

How much boost?

Troy5061

iTrader: (19)

17psi, 16 degrees of timing. My knock sensors are inop so I didn't push it to hard. My iats were getting a little warm as well so im gonna hook up a second meth nozzle, fix the lockup and knock sensors and should get close to 750 I think.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

So someone school me on turbo headers. Again, budget minded, but something that will fit right and work. CX Racing, Speed Engineering?

MM98

iTrader: (13)

Truck manifolds, cheap & work great!

Aaron at SDPC

Truck manifolds or a hotside setup from Huron Speed with the manifolds work great and will support far beyond what your planning to do with the setup.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

You think truck manifolds are a better choice than a set of forward facing turbo headers? The hot side and cold side will be fab'd up around either the truck manifolds or turbo headers.

Aaron at SDPC

I believe that's the most cost effective solution. Plus there has been guys making well beyond 1400HP with the factory truck manifolds. Think back to the Ohio Boys and how much power they were making on truck manifolds. It all depends on budget and end goals really.

MM98

iTrader: (13)

Truck manifolds will support a lot more than what you're wanting in hp & can usually be had dirt cheap. Save the coin & put it towards your fuel system, unless you just like the look of headers, which is understandable.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Not too concerned about looks. I'll just run the truck manifolds then. Thanks guys!

Troy5061

iTrader: (19)

plus with the truck manis you can still change the plugs and run stock plug wires. I had a nice set of stainless works headers on my Camaro and while they were nice quality and looked great kind of a pain in the dink.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

That's good to know. I wasn't aware of that.

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

sub'd

Seems like we have the same mind set on goals. I'm looking at the same turbo (on3 7875) and would like the same HP goals.

I believe the truck manifolds are a good header to use, and like mentioned above, pair that with the huron speed hot side kit. I wish I was capable of fabricating my own turbo system so for now I'll have to buy a hot side kit lol.

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

Oh and just curious, not sure if it was covered or not but what are you doing for the oiling system? I know you said you want to keep it budget minded, but don't you have to tap in the oil pan for the feed? Because that will be a little labor intensive....

ls1charged

iTrader: (8)

i understand its frowned upon but i tapped the pan with it on the motor.... used heavy duty grease on a drill veeerrrrryyy slowly, as in, 1.5-2 revolutions, take it off degrease and remove shavings from bit, regrease and do it again about 30 times over, then changed the oil 3 times lol never had an issue the whole time i was boosted

1bdbrd

iTrader: (12)

Also if you want to save a little time and headache, there are already prefabbed hot sides made for truck manifolds. Before I bought my Huron kit I was talking with a company that had the crossover and downpipe I think for like $475. They have been talked about here on tech before but not very well known.

Edit* The company is RaceFab. Seem to make nice looking parts but I like my Huron stuff better if we are comparing looks.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Not sure. Again, when the time comes, I'll leave it up to my buddy to figure out. Not sure how he's done it on the other turbo builds he's done, but I know it'll be done right.

gtfoxy

I've done it both ways on many turbo builds.

I don't use a standard drill bit though if it is still mounted. I use a 3/4" hole-saw packed with grease. You aren't punching a whole & making it bigger as bits get removed.

Then pack the tap with grease as well & thread it in a few turns then clean & repack. Lather, rinse, repeat. Given the variances of NPT tolerances test the fitting as you tap it so you don't go too big tapping the hole & end up with a loose fit.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Well, apparently ON3 has a new turbo that's now in the mix. It's a 84mm turbo, T4, 755 exhaust wheel, .96ar 3" v-band outlet. $625.00 is the price, but that's not with the ceramic ball bearing unit ($199.00 more), or with the billet wheel upgrade.