eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

For starters my car is a 02 Z06, F7 cam( 224/230 114+4) Stock 317 heads milled to 69.5cc( 9.85CR), 60lb inj, LPE pump, KB BAP, SW headers going into factory 02 Z06 cats and exiting a GHL catback. Pulley is a 4.10 boost was around 7-9 and air temps were around 80 degrees( it was humid).

Anyway car made a best of 606 but I settled on a 603/483 rwhp. I'm happy for sure but I have a few questions. I logged the runs via HPT and had my Dynojet wideband commander permantely hooked up with the gauge in the pillar. My Histogram show'd a AFR of 11.2 across the board the Dyno show'd 10.1 to 6000 then it rose to 11.1 by 6500. My Histogram show'd it rise to 12.1 at 6500. What sensor is the accurate one? The dyno is reading at the tailpipe after my factory cats where my WBC is reading before the cat. We made a pull with my buddies 99 mustang and his LM1 read 11.9 while the Dyno read 11.7-he has no cats. Anyway for whatever reason the car liked the AFR right there cause that's where it made the most power. But still I would like to know which reading to trust.

Second question was the torque-I was a bit disapointed-I'm thinking about dumping my factory cats to and running a 3" Dr.Gas X-pipe right after the cats. Do you think that would help my torque jump over 500? I played with timing and fuel but i didn't get much response from the torque-or what about some Hi-flow cats like the Dynotech's or Random's or should i just dump them alltogether?

Third question is the airline that goies from my valvecover to my blower inlet. I put a small air water seperater inline but when the car is under boost it fills up fast from the blower creating a vacuum. I need to vent this to the atmospshere-I got a Metco Valve cover breather but It won't fit under my stock hood-does anyone have any other suggestions. My PCV line has a air water seperater too and a one-way check valve and it ssems to be working fine. Just need to figure out someway to hook up a breather?

I have my graph saved in a PDF file-for some reason that was the only way I was able to save it. I can email to someone if they care to host it. Oh pulley was a 4.10 and boost was around 7-9psi, air temps rose from 80 at the beginning of the pull to 109 at the end of the pull-meth is going on next.

Any inputs or suggestions are welcomed-thanks guys!

WHPLASH

iTrader: (22)

Arun, I can't answer any of your questions , but that is some great hp. The torque does seem a bit low and I would definetly loose the cats. I think it would help increase your torque. Plus, it will sound so bad *** bro.

That thing must feel great. BTW, I should have my boost a pump and smaller pulley this week. I'll let you know the final #'s in a couple weeks.

Shoot me a few pics of your ride too!!!

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

that is some beautiful, powerful, dont beat yourself on the torque you'll figure a way to get it up,

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Thanks Dennis-the car feels very deceiving. It just pulls so hard-however 1st and second gear are a waste. I'm just worried with the torque peaking so hi(5250) will hurt my while drag racing. It does make over 400ft/lbs by 3500 then rises to 480 by 5250 and doesn't drop until my shiftlight comes on at 6600. Horespower just looks like straight line going up-doesn't even seem to want to stop. I have to get something to vent the crankcase though-the line from the valvecover to airfilter start sucking oil real bad as soon it goes into boost. I think a switch to maybe a 10w30 instead of 5w30 might help too-I used to run 5w50 in my mustang-do you guys think that would be okay in a LS1?

CHRISPY

That is awesome man!! Is this with the intercoolers in place? What timing did you run?

I would trust the precat wideband you have and not the tailpipe one. What AFR are you seeing on the street with the wideband? You might go a little leaner on the street compared to the dynojet.

The car must feel SICK man...

Xpipe will help a lot but I think it is cool you are making 600RWHP emissions legal. I wouldn't screw with it

As far as the PCV goes a lot of people run a one way check valve inline. The fresh air tube on top of the T-body is plugged and a line from the valvecover is run to within an inch of the air filter. (Fresh air line)

That should help a lot.

Cheers,
Chris

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Thanks Chris! The only reason i was going to dump the cats is to pick up some more torque-you know how much this would help between shifts in a 6-speed. Bro you know how long I've been trying to run 10's with this thing-I gotta get there! I didn't hammer on it on the way home-to see what AFR I was getting. My first pull was 575 from my street tune-AFR from street uning was 11.2, AFR on the dyno on my wideband was 10.8. When I go to the track I'll adjust the AFR-one thing ofr sure is the car likes to run richer than leaner-that's for sure. Timing is a very safe 17 degrees then I drop it down to 15 from 6000 up-not a hint of knock as i didn't even touch those tables. I probably could of asked for more but I was actually satisified with 575 from the first pull-just went for the 600 for fun. This is going the through the single FMIC -temps went from 80 to 100 so it did help. Meth is going on next but only for safety reasons-I would still like to do something to increase that torque #.

CHRISPY

Cool man

So you are saying you saw 11.2 on the street and 10.8 on the dyno? That sounds about right for a blower car. half a point difference from dynojet versus street.

You are making me want to delve back into the supercharger world haha!

Have you looked at the new magnaflow metallic substrate cats? They are cheaper than the RT cats and flow similar cfm. (580ish cfm each for 3 inch)

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Here's a video from one of the pulls:


http://videos.streetfire.net/video/5...6a7f1ffc93.htm

WHPLASH

iTrader: (22)

I like your digital gauge. That looks sweet.

It seems to me that most of the Procharged cars have good hp #'s, but low torque #'s. Mine is the same as yours. The turbo cars seem to dyno more torque than hp.

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Dennis I think your car has tonnes left in it! You should try to hook up with Slowhawk or Kp to get a retune. If you add some meth-your car would be sick! I just picked up the Alky control kit-you should consider it bro-very nice kit.

Drewstein

Dump the cats and the numbers from the tail should be much closer. Other than that you're making good power.

s0mps0n

Always trust your wideband and the wide band always has to be pre-cat. All cats do is "clean" the air. Dyno widebands are a hit and miss. I have never trusted them or will I ever.

You have emission in your state? Or I should ask, you care about having to pass emissions?

Your oil weight is not factor (or should be) in crank pressure.


Horsepower is just torque over time. The cross at 5250. It is normal. BTW, it looks from the video you are creeping on boost.

You post a shot of your timing map? maybe the dyno sheet if you can get it hosted. You have more power to be made

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

I can email the graph to anyone who can host it. I'm actually going to detune the car a bit on the top end to say around 580-590 but I would like to get in increase in torque. Slowhawk and I have discussed this and it looks like a cam change is in the works. If it can get over 500 rwhtq through the cats than what else could you ask for. The boost guage has a boost averaging feature-basicaly I had it averaging to slow-peak boost using the recall was 9 psi at 6600. You can set warning lights for boost and fuel pressure. I can email my HPT file and log if you would like to see the results.

s0mps0n

You doing this for safety? At your max torque, your knock threadhold will be the highest.

You do screen shots? I do not have the software. You can email the dyno sheet to turbogixxer@gmail.com. I will try to get it hosted

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Yes bro-detuning for safety's sake. If you look at my HPT log you can see the AFR was around 11.2 accept at peak torque where it dropped to 10.9-the dyno graph actually shows a fat 10.1 until 6000 where it the AFR creeps up-so there was actually a full point difference between the tailpipe and before the cat. I'm guessing my fuel pump cannot keep up or I got a bad unit from LPE-i'll have to talk to Slowhawk about that. I was under the impression that the LPE pump and KB BAP was good for 700rwhp on a 02-guess not. I could increase the pulse width alot more on the injectors too. I'll email you the graph tonite-thanks!

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Is there anyway to post the HPT scan log for the pull? There you can see exactly what's going on. Also my MAF flatlined at around 5500-is this normal?

WHPLASH

iTrader: (22)

Shoot me some info on the meth kit, if you would please (name, supplier and $$$). I do need a FMIC or just go with meth. I know meth is cheaper, but a FMIC is more reliable. I don't think my twins can handle 13#'s thats coming next week with the boost a pump. Lost my idler pulley the other day too. More $$$

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Call Julio-I would get the meth first then do the FMIC later-meth will be more effective at dropping temps. You can build a failsafe into the tune for the meth. in the IAT able you tell the computer to pull like 10 degress of timing if temps go over 95 degrees. His # is 727-526-9724 and he is really nice guy to talk to-vey helpful and always accessable. You have to look at the Meth/FMIC this way-meth will drop your temps by 60 degrees on average, FMIC by say 20 degrees-then you have to deal with the car overheating because your losing so much airflow going into the rad, condenser. Do the Meth-you won't be sorry!

WHPLASH

iTrader: (22)

Do you have a plug-n-play setup with your boost a pump? Sorry so many questions. I just ordered one.

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

It wasn't plug and play but it is a pretty simple install-someone should have some install pics posted on this forum.