LS1 Professional Products Intake And Fuel Rails
#4
Originally Posted by motorbuilt
I have their ls2 fuel rails and they are very nice.
Alum manifolds go to ambient temp within a moment of getting on the throttle...its not an issue.
Alum manifolds go to ambient temp within a moment of getting on the throttle...its not an issue.
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I have both their polished 85mm intake and 85mm TB. The casting is fine and the polish job is very good. Don't have it installed yet as car show season is upon us and there is no time for 'down time' now. But in person, with the red fuel rails, it looks even better & way nicer than my LS6 intake that I painted Sebring Silver - which I think looks pretty damn good
I like running an aluminum intake with nitrous - if you've ever seen a plastic intake after a nitrous backfire you'd know what I mean. I'm not worried about heat soak either - have run an aluminum intake in all my go fast cars since my 1st car - never had a problem.
Remember the LS1 is not a carbed engine with the heat transfering up thru the carb from the intake and then percolating the fuel like in te old days - this is a fuel injected engine with fuel being injected directly on top of pistons - intake is only there to carry air. Sure, the air may heat up a bit as it takes some heat from the intake - but as stated above, while moving the air is really cruising thru that intake. Not much time to soak up any appreciable heat plus the airflow will cool the intake.
I like running an aluminum intake with nitrous - if you've ever seen a plastic intake after a nitrous backfire you'd know what I mean. I'm not worried about heat soak either - have run an aluminum intake in all my go fast cars since my 1st car - never had a problem.
Remember the LS1 is not a carbed engine with the heat transfering up thru the carb from the intake and then percolating the fuel like in te old days - this is a fuel injected engine with fuel being injected directly on top of pistons - intake is only there to carry air. Sure, the air may heat up a bit as it takes some heat from the intake - but as stated above, while moving the air is really cruising thru that intake. Not much time to soak up any appreciable heat plus the airflow will cool the intake.
#6
I took the Professional Products intake manifolds off my website, as I have had too many people have problems getting them to seal.
The fuel rails are not bad though, they are identical to a major brand. Bob
The fuel rails are not bad though, they are identical to a major brand. Bob
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
I took the Professional Products intake manifolds off my website, as I have had too many people have problems getting them to seal. Bob
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Tells me all i need to know.
That there are people out there that can't install an intake?
I haven't found one aftermarket part out there for a T/A that didn't require some level of intelligence and 'crafting' to make it work.
Including (and no offense here BOB) the ATI Procharger setups that EPS sells - they sure aren't plug n play either...
I've been on here for years now and have seen hundreds of threads that deal with people having problems installing or gripes over just about everything. Some examples are:
In-Tank Fuel Pumps
Torque Arms
Headers
Cat Backs
Rocker Arms
Air Lids
Gage Overlays
Fuel Rail Covers
Fuel Rails
Shocks
STB
Roll Cages
Gages
Gage Overlays
Rear Ends
Etc, etc, etc
My personal best experience was with the Baer GT+ braking setup - had to cut and grind stock spindles, grind the nose on lower control arms, and finally, grind the cooling fins off of $1500 calipers to make them fit with the 17" wheels that were told to me by the company would work fine with their product. Everyone advertises their products - but leave out the nasty little details of what you will run into to make them fit.
So because I had to go thru all of the above that was NOT mentioned in any product literature, nor the instructions for that matter, Baer brakes should no longer be carried? Albeit all the trouble I had to go thru - the brakes are excellent.
If a company advertises an 8 hr install time - figure on 2X that amount
Heck, I've seen people mess up installing emblem overlay stickers
So for every product that doesn't just fall into place by itself - we should no longer sell that item? Wouldn't be much left out there available.
I've been working on cars now for 30 years from simple jobs to involved jobs - problem is, now a days, that everyone wants the parts to install themselves without any effort/skill on the part of the installer required.
Last edited by 1QUIKWS6; 05-13-2007 at 10:13 AM.
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Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
And that would be what?????
That there are people out there that can't install an intake?
I haven't found one aftermarket part out there for a T/A that didn't require some level of intelligence and 'crafting' to make it work.
Including (and no offense here BOB) the ATI Procharger setups that EPS sells - they sure aren't plug n play either...
I've been on here for years now and have seen hundreds of threads that deal with people having problems installing or gripes over just about everything. Some examples are:
In-Tank Fuel Pumps
Torque Arms
Headers
Cat Backs
Rocker Arms
Air Lids
Gage Overlays
Fuel Rail Covers
Fuel Rails
Shocks
STB
Roll Cages
Gages
Gage Overlays
Rear Ends
Etc, etc, etc
My personal best experience was with the Baer GT+ braking setup - had to cut and grind stock spindles, grind the nose on lower control arms, and finally, grind the cooling fins off of $1500 calipers to make them fit with the 17" wheels that were told to me by the company would work fine with their product. Everyone advertises their products - but leave out the nasty little details of what you will run into to make them fit.
So because I had to go thru all of the above that was NOT mentioned in any product literature, nor the instructions for that matter, Baer brakes should no longer be carried? Albeit all the trouble I had to go thru - the brakes are excellent.
If a company advertises an 8 hr install time - figure on 2X that amount
Heck, I've seen people mess up installing emblem overlay stickers
So for every product that doesn't just fall into place by itself - we should no longer sell that item? Wouldn't be much left out there available.
I've been working on cars now for 30 years from simple jobs to involved jobs - problem is, now a days, that everyone wants the parts to install themselves without any effort/skill on the part of the installer required.
That there are people out there that can't install an intake?
I haven't found one aftermarket part out there for a T/A that didn't require some level of intelligence and 'crafting' to make it work.
Including (and no offense here BOB) the ATI Procharger setups that EPS sells - they sure aren't plug n play either...
I've been on here for years now and have seen hundreds of threads that deal with people having problems installing or gripes over just about everything. Some examples are:
In-Tank Fuel Pumps
Torque Arms
Headers
Cat Backs
Rocker Arms
Air Lids
Gage Overlays
Fuel Rail Covers
Fuel Rails
Shocks
STB
Roll Cages
Gages
Gage Overlays
Rear Ends
Etc, etc, etc
My personal best experience was with the Baer GT+ braking setup - had to cut and grind stock spindles, grind the nose on lower control arms, and finally, grind the cooling fins off of $1500 calipers to make them fit with the 17" wheels that were told to me by the company would work fine with their product. Everyone advertises their products - but leave out the nasty little details of what you will run into to make them fit.
So because I had to go thru all of the above that was NOT mentioned in any product literature, nor the instructions for that matter, Baer brakes should no longer be carried? Albeit all the trouble I had to go thru - the brakes are excellent.
If a company advertises an 8 hr install time - figure on 2X that amount
Heck, I've seen people mess up installing emblem overlay stickers
So for every product that doesn't just fall into place by itself - we should no longer sell that item? Wouldn't be much left out there available.
I've been working on cars now for 30 years from simple jobs to involved jobs - problem is, now a days, that everyone wants the parts to install themselves without any effort/skill on the part of the installer required.
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Originally Posted by Jake@EPP
Its a great looking intake, but it should have been O-ring'd like the factory intake.
Originally Posted by AaronR
Has it been proven that it makes more power than a FAST set up?Ive yet to see that proof.
FAST claims 15hp over the LS6 intake, if I'm not mistaking. In this comparison, the PP intake made 17.7hp more than the LS6 intake (dynograph here). For about half the cost of a FAST 90/90, the PP 85/85 can not be beat (plus it's shiny and comes with pretty fuel rails).
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I totally agree that the o-ring seals from the factory, on much of the sealing surfaces of the LSX family, is the next best thing to buttered bread.
One thing I never understood about the beaded gaskets - such as the ones marketed by many aftermarket companies (and it seems PP new gaskets also) is why is there only one side of the gasket beaded?
Why wouldn't you need both sides beaded? After all, you are sealing (2) completely flat surfaces - so if a bead is needed between intake and gasket, why not gasket and head?
One thing I never understood about the beaded gaskets - such as the ones marketed by many aftermarket companies (and it seems PP new gaskets also) is why is there only one side of the gasket beaded?
Why wouldn't you need both sides beaded? After all, you are sealing (2) completely flat surfaces - so if a bead is needed between intake and gasket, why not gasket and head?
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Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
I totally agree that the o-ring seals from the factory, on much of the sealing surfaces of the LSX family, is the next best thing to buttered bread.
One thing I never understood about the beaded gaskets - such as the ones marketed by many aftermarket companies (and it seems PP new gaskets also) is why is there only one side of the gasket beaded?
Why wouldn't you need both sides beaded? After all, you are sealing (2) completely flat surfaces - so if a bead is needed between intake and gasket, why not gasket and head?
One thing I never understood about the beaded gaskets - such as the ones marketed by many aftermarket companies (and it seems PP new gaskets also) is why is there only one side of the gasket beaded?
Why wouldn't you need both sides beaded? After all, you are sealing (2) completely flat surfaces - so if a bead is needed between intake and gasket, why not gasket and head?
After seeing there knock-off version for the small block fords, i am not impressed by any means.
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Well the Weiand aluminum intake must have exactly the same problems with sealing as the two intakes are identical in the sealing surface area.
PP did fix some of the problems with the rear vacuum lines that were inherent in both Weiand & Typhoon - as far as I know Weiand did not.
As a Mech. Design Engineer, I was going to attemp to use one of my machine shop sources to cut o-ring grooves in the PP intake to be able to use the factory gaskets - unfortunately, there is not enough aluminum material around the ports to allow this...
PP did fix some of the problems with the rear vacuum lines that were inherent in both Weiand & Typhoon - as far as I know Weiand did not.
As a Mech. Design Engineer, I was going to attemp to use one of my machine shop sources to cut o-ring grooves in the PP intake to be able to use the factory gaskets - unfortunately, there is not enough aluminum material around the ports to allow this...
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So where can i buy one of these intakes for my 98? Whats a website were they are sold at? I work at an small auto parts store in rual nebraska. We have a supplier that sends us a cataloge once a qtr. and i saw this intake kit for like $350 dealer cost (stained). The prob. is that we dont have our account setup with them yet, they just send us there cataloge to try n get us to order our performance crap from them. Settin up accounts like that is kindof a pain in the ***, just for one intake. So if theres a website i could order one from or at least see prices that be great.
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Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
Well the Weiand aluminum intake must have exactly the same problems with sealing as the two intakes are identical in the sealing surface area.
PP did fix some of the problems with the rear vacuum lines that were inherent in both Weiand & Typhoon - as far as I know Weiand did not.
As a Mech. Design Engineer, I was going to attemp to use one of my machine shop sources to cut o-ring grooves in the PP intake to be able to use the factory gaskets - unfortunately, there is not enough aluminum material around the ports to allow this...
PP did fix some of the problems with the rear vacuum lines that were inherent in both Weiand & Typhoon - as far as I know Weiand did not.
As a Mech. Design Engineer, I was going to attemp to use one of my machine shop sources to cut o-ring grooves in the PP intake to be able to use the factory gaskets - unfortunately, there is not enough aluminum material around the ports to allow this...
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Originally Posted by AzzBustin30th
there new style gaskets are o-ringed but im runnig the originals without a problem.
this is what my buddy posted up when a member of another board asked the same question.
this is what my buddy posted up when a member of another board asked the same question.
does fast claim 15hp on a stock engine, because 17 hp on a heads cam engine is alittle diff then a stock car.
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
I took the Professional Products intake manifolds off my website, as I have had too many people have problems getting them to seal.
The fuel rails are not bad though, they are identical to a major brand. Bob
The fuel rails are not bad though, they are identical to a major brand. Bob
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
I can see that.If the heads are milled or not 100% true it will not seal.We've pulled alot of those Weilands off because of this.Thick o-rings wouls help alot.