Help me pinpoint rear-end trouble!
11-26-2008, 12:28 AM
#1
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Help me pinpoint rear-end trouble! Hey all,
In a nutshell, my rear-end only howls (and LOUDLY) when giving it gas. That's it. On decel (no pressure on accelerator) it's quiet as can be. What is it that causes rear end noise only upon giving it gas? If I can learn what it is exactly that is causing this, then I'll know exactly what all I need to replace. It's my daily driver and an upgraded rear-end is not a financial option. Re-build the 10 bolt or nothing. So, any opinions as to the cause of this particular howl?
In a nutshell, my rear-end only howls (and LOUDLY) when giving it gas. That's it. On decel (no pressure on accelerator) it's quiet as can be. What is it that causes rear end noise only upon giving it gas? If I can learn what it is exactly that is causing this, then I'll know exactly what all I need to replace. It's my daily driver and an upgraded rear-end is not a financial option. Re-build the 10 bolt or nothing. So, any opinions as to the cause of this particular howl?
11-26-2008, 11:02 AM
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Having a similar problem too, but mind seems to howl on both accel and deceleration. Just took it in for another issue and had the rear end diagnosed. They said that more then likely the carrier bearings are failing. Hope this helps.
11-26-2008, 12:30 PM
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My guess would be the big pinion bearing or, since it's a manual trans, a bearing in the trans.
Thats only going off experience I had with a 2nd gen and a ST10 4 speed. Howl under load. It was the bearing that holds the output shaft in the rear bearing retainer.
I'd start by draining the fluid out of the rear, and trans. The one with metal flakes is the one with the problem.
Thats only going off experience I had with a 2nd gen and a ST10 4 speed. Howl under load. It was the bearing that holds the output shaft in the rear bearing retainer.
I'd start by draining the fluid out of the rear, and trans. The one with metal flakes is the one with the problem.
11-26-2008, 07:03 PM
#5
This applies to the 10 bolt also.
Put a 12 bolt into a early Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, etc and you can beat the crap out of it, and not hurt anything. Put one into one of our cars with a torque arm, make a couple 4000 to 5000 dragstrip launches, and I can just about guarantee you'll pick up gear noise. If it is a drag only car, you'll never know or care about the gear noise. Drive your car home from the track, and the noise will drive you nuts. I feel the torque arm stresses the 12 bolt housing, causing distortion. We have never seen this happen with the 9 inch housing.
Exotic Performance Plus strongly recommends the Moser nine inch. This rear is even tougher than the Moser 12 bolt, and the horsepower of the late model F Body cars keeps escalating every year, which requires a very strong rear. With the recent introduction of the 6.2L GM aluminum block and the excellent flowing 6.2 litre heads, the horsepower of these cars is going to just keep climbing at a very fast pace.The nine inch will handle the power, plus we prefer the way the torque arm is bolted to the nine inch in the same way the oem rear-end is attached. (This is the only good thing about the stock 10 bolt...) The Moser 12 bolt uses four short bolts to attach the torque arm, and they have a habit of loosening up, even when loc-tite is used. Why the nine inch is stronger than the 12 bolt. The 9-inch has an internal rear-pinion support that also supports the gear end of the pinion to limit gear deflection under high torque loads. This seems to be the major reason why the 9 inch doesn't start whining after high rpm clutch dumps, when the 12 bolt will pick up noise.The 9-inch locates its pinion gear lower on the ring gear to improve tooth contact, than the 12 bolt does.The 9-inch has a 0.125-inch larger ring-gear diameter and internal pinion support than the 12 bolt does. This is not much of a difference, but it is worth noting. Bob
Put a 12 bolt into a early Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, etc and you can beat the crap out of it, and not hurt anything. Put one into one of our cars with a torque arm, make a couple 4000 to 5000 dragstrip launches, and I can just about guarantee you'll pick up gear noise. If it is a drag only car, you'll never know or care about the gear noise. Drive your car home from the track, and the noise will drive you nuts. I feel the torque arm stresses the 12 bolt housing, causing distortion. We have never seen this happen with the 9 inch housing.
Exotic Performance Plus strongly recommends the Moser nine inch. This rear is even tougher than the Moser 12 bolt, and the horsepower of the late model F Body cars keeps escalating every year, which requires a very strong rear. With the recent introduction of the 6.2L GM aluminum block and the excellent flowing 6.2 litre heads, the horsepower of these cars is going to just keep climbing at a very fast pace.The nine inch will handle the power, plus we prefer the way the torque arm is bolted to the nine inch in the same way the oem rear-end is attached. (This is the only good thing about the stock 10 bolt...) The Moser 12 bolt uses four short bolts to attach the torque arm, and they have a habit of loosening up, even when loc-tite is used. Why the nine inch is stronger than the 12 bolt. The 9-inch has an internal rear-pinion support that also supports the gear end of the pinion to limit gear deflection under high torque loads. This seems to be the major reason why the 9 inch doesn't start whining after high rpm clutch dumps, when the 12 bolt will pick up noise.The 9-inch locates its pinion gear lower on the ring gear to improve tooth contact, than the 12 bolt does.The 9-inch has a 0.125-inch larger ring-gear diameter and internal pinion support than the 12 bolt does. This is not much of a difference, but it is worth noting. Bob
11-27-2008, 02:12 AM
#6
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yea if its only on acceleration my thoughts would be ur rear pinion bearing, a good way to test this is to go under the car and try and whiggle the yoke up and down, if there is n e play the bearing is bad. try lookin into a rebuild kit. good luck
