What can I do to make my 10 bolt last longer...
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What can I do to make my 10 bolt last longer...
Hey guys wondering what I can do to give me 10bolt less stress besides obviously not trying to go fast...
I have auto trans 3500 stall, 3.42 gears and drag radials...
Right now all thats done to the rear end is a new girdle type cover...
I have auto trans 3500 stall, 3.42 gears and drag radials...
Right now all thats done to the rear end is a new girdle type cover...
#3
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+1 on the girdle. Synthetic gear lube, change it out every 10k. Oil's cheap. Freshen the bearings as soon as you start hearing noises... bearings are cheap and it only takes an afternoon to swap them out. I've run 11's on my original 10-bolt... rebuilt it twice since I bought the car new in '99 and it's still underneath it. Drive smart, don't abuse it too much, and you can make it live a long time.
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now lets see if I can add it all up
my A4/stalled/10 bolt
ta cover/stud kit (140.00)
Detroit locker (525.00)
3.73 (200.00)
mos axles (250.00)
welded tubes (nc)
mt drag radials (300.00)
air bags (50.00)
adjust ta on body mount(250.00)
relocate brackets (nc)
adjust lca (200.00)
adj phb (100.00)
all labor (nc)
all added a nickel and a dime at a time
heck of a lot of money in a 10 bolt
I do not want to add it up/all this in a 10 bolt running mid 11' /1.64 @ 60ft
Johnny
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#8
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sounds like I might be okay for a while only running a 3.42 but I am getting some wheelhop that scares me... I have adjustable lower control arms and torque arm.. guessing it needs some tweaking
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Don't wheel hop and freshen the bearings up. Aftermarket gears tend to have a bit stronger cut which makes them stronger (and more prone to noise). I have not yet seen a rebuilt ten bolt break, and I have done a lot of them.
#12
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#13
Weld the axle tubes where they go into the housing, get some aftermarket rear lower control arms to eliminate wheel hop (trust me they work!) and you have an auto so you should be fine the autos do not produce as much of a shock on the drive train on hard launches as the m6s.
#16
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FYI - Airbags in the rear springs (10 lbs on the driver's side / 15 lbs on the pass side) were the things that eliminated my car's wheel hop - yes, the LCA relocation brackets helped, but by themselves they did not eliminate my car's whel hop.
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But if you plan on drag racing your car, heavily and frequently, it's not going to last. I've been on my 10b stock rear for 9 years and it's been fine with me.. But I've got a bent axle. Has been for a while, just never figured out what it was until recently. It's just a street car and doesn't see the track very much. I'm also on a built T56 with a McLeod single clutch, so it bites hard when i want it to. Been running NT05's for a year or two now, and it's still fine. But I just want gears.
Get a TA Girdle for now and have the axle tubes welded to the center section. That's all you can really do, shy of building it.
They're not as fragile as people say, but then again, I'm pretty kind to mine. I have never side stepped it nor do I plan to. I power shift rarely, but only when needed.
#20
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I have cut more than enough 1.50-1.55 (373s 4000) short times and 1.60-1.65 (410s 4400) (lifting the tires a foot and unloading causing me to spin, should have been mid-high 1.4s) to have faith in a ten bolt.
They are strong behind autos, suck *** behind manuals.
They are strong behind autos, suck *** behind manuals.