Hawk777th

I bought this car used 2002 SS A4 and its in the 450Hp range. I believe I still have the stock aluminum driveshaft under it?

Read some of you guys storys seems I may be on borrowed time with it?

Seems I wont be driving it very hard until I get it replaced!

Any help would be great!

TransWS6Am

iTrader: (41)

I would get one, mine snapped when I still had my LS1 at 485rwhp, but I also have an M6. Just think of it as saving yourself money. Just buying a drive shaft is way cheaper than buying a drive shaft, torque arm, tranny tailhousing, y-pipe and what ever else your stock drive shaft takes out when it snaps. (ask me how i know).

shepss217

iTrader: (5)

that's why they make little things called loops, its saves you from having to buy all that stuff if one does break, you have an automatic car your stock driveshaft will be fine, if anything goes it will be the rearend

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

cost of a complete new driveshaft will be around 300-325. cost of the damage a failure will cost will be upwards of 1000.00, then you still have to buy a new driveshaft!

cheap insurance to get a Strange cm or PST driveshaft now, while your oem aluminum shaft is still worth something to sell and put that toward your new parts.

give us a call for an unbeatable deal on a driveshaft from Strange or PST

V68Sweep

Are you at 450 crank hp or wheel? If you're crank then I think you're fine, but if that's wheel...then yea maybe you need one.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

YES.

I did this with my cam only car right after my Moser 9" with 4.11s got broken in. It was the first pass, cold drag radials, let out of the clutch at about 3000 rpms and SNAP. Refer to my old thread for more references: https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...riveshaft.html

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

HP has absolutely nothing to do with this..... It's called TRACTION and TORQUE with that said, I feel when you begin Modding a car it should be built from the rear forward!

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Its good insurance because the stock driveshafts are crap.