lilscoggs07

iTrader: (6)

Well driving today on highway and i was going about 60mph and i dropped one gear to pass a car (not even getting on it) and next thing i know my axle is whining really loud.. got home oil is all behind my car and there is a bolt stick out of the cover and oil is leaking from it! so idk what blew but what do i need to do now?? its making 474wrhp with 11'' zr1 rims and tires and its a m6 with 118k milage

MRMonster

iTrader: (3)

Upgrade to a 9 inch is the best option or find a cheap 10 bolt (if funds are low) and hope it lasts for a little while before that one breaks.

BrianSF-GA

Time for an S60, 9" or a 12-bolt ... you are making decent power behind an M6 and was on borrowed time with a 118k mile, 10-bolt, especially, with some sticky tires.

lilscoggs07

iTrader: (6)

Yeah funds are short I can spend some money for one but not a grand lol what's a good 12 bolt axle to use? And what ford 9" do u guys recommend I'm new to axles guys thanks alot for the replies!

lilscoggs07

iTrader: (6)

Yeah a bolt shot right through the cover so it's not good :/

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Cheap means another 10 bolt or DIY on a 8.8

Keep the ratio high and the 10 bolt will last longer, i.e. no 3.73, 4.10's

blackthunder50

I agree.

Is there damage to the housing?

You could rebuild depending on damage, but you may want to check some local salvage yards first for a stock 10 bolt to hold you over for awhile. Make sure you take the cover off the salvage yard rear and check it thoroughly.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Just for evaluation,
pull rear cover, if rear is not full of metal and gears missing chunks
tighten all ring gear bolts, replace missing bolt.
install new cover and fill with lube.
Take car for drive and see if it quiets down with lube in it. This won't cost much and you just might save it and save yourself some $ until you can get something for a permanent fix that will handle your power level.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

With a bolt sticking out of his cover I highly doubt he'll get by replacing the bolt. To the op, most likely the cheapest route to go is to swap out your rear for another used 10 bolt, then don't get on your car anymore until you can afford to upgrade to an aftermarket rear. Here is the rear I recommend going to when you can afford to do so. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-9-I...c-Truetrac.htm Bob

lilscoggs07

iTrader: (6)

I did everything guppymech said and it whines loud as it did.. I dot understand what else could it be?? It get higher in tone faster I go.

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

well start planning your new rear end build, drive it as long as it will last

lilscoggs07

iTrader: (6)

Is there a 10 bolt that is built to withstand that much hp? I don't wanna drag my car alot lol but if there's a good 10 bolt and affordable then I could do that if not that then what lol

lilscoggs07

iTrader: (6)

my pinion bearings sound like they are out also

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Dont drive like a pissed off teenager and it will last just fine. Hard launches with sticky tires wont do it any favors either

BrianSF-GA

Search the threads ... the 10-bolt is probably the weakest point of these cars especially with sticky tires and a hard launch.

lilscoggs07

iTrader: (6)

yeah i dont wanna launch my car really maybe a few times at the track thats all... i really never have dumped the clutch on my car either and dont tend on doing so cause ik it could snap it real quick if i dumped it enough. so being that i dont drag the car and dont have sticky tires but are a foot wide on the rear whats the best option to do? go to salvage yard and get another 10 bolt with unknown milage and put 373s in it or what? THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLIES GUYS

BrianSF-GA

Hopefully, it is not your daily driver and you can save some money for a "proper" rear for your power. It doesn't take much to break these rears and I am surprised you made it to 118k miles, but then again, there are a few rare cases where I have seen some 10-bolts on slicks with these cars still together. I am thinking they are on borrowed time. Just take your time chosing a rear, read the threads here and discuss options with the manufacturer's for your application. Remember what is perfect for one application is not for another. I want a primarily drag only car so I chose an inexpensive, but "unbreakable", pro-race axled, spooled S60. It may be best for you to spend the extra $$$ and go with a 9" and Wavetrack if it's primarily a street car. Also, it is a good time to go to an aftermarket suspension (torque arm, panhard bar rod, lower contol arms, sway bar, etc.) since the rearend is out.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Can you limp your noisy rear end along till you find another 10 bolt? I picked up a spare rear on craigslist. They also come up for sale in the classified section on here. I have posted in the 'parts wanted' section for parts and I always get lots of responses, try there too.
Unfortunately it sounds like your rear needs a complete rebuild account of running out of oil. Once you get into the cost of replacing everything in the rear including the posi unit the cost starts to approach $1000 to have a shop do it. At that cost you're better off with a good used rear. Unfortunately for all of us GM put a weak rear in these cars. If you want to put your power to use with sticky tires it's going to take a aftermarket rear end.

lilscoggs07

iTrader: (6)

THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLIES! and brian thats true about replacing the torque arms and stuff... guppy i might do what u said and find a good used one and swap out the ratio for a 410s if not 373s for sure... i wish gm didnt make these rearends a pain in the rearend but it still comes down to that i will need a new rearend or used one with no damage to the bolt housing..

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Might as well get a third axle ready to swap in...