Pinion Angle Verification
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Pinion Angle Verification
Just wanted to run this by everyone to see if this makes sense. My trans points down 4*. My ds points down 1.5*. And my pinion points up 2*. So under full load my pinion would rise 2* more which would be 4* and be in perfect alignment with my transmission. Is this setup ok?
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
What are using the car for primarily? For street duty you want as close to opposite for the pinion angle. In a drag car, you'll have to guess at how much climb your going to get when power is on flat out. If you get vibration at the strip, 2° is probably too much.
The driveshaft angle in a car is really irrelevant. It helps to know this in a Jeep, because those vehicles have extreme operating angles for the drive shaft, putting the u-joints close to bind on rebound. Unless your car is set up for mud bogging It's probably unlikely you'll bind the u-joints at full rebound.
The driveshaft angle in a car is really irrelevant. It helps to know this in a Jeep, because those vehicles have extreme operating angles for the drive shaft, putting the u-joints close to bind on rebound. Unless your car is set up for mud bogging It's probably unlikely you'll bind the u-joints at full rebound.
#3
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Mainly street use. I recently upgraded to a fab 9 rear with adj lca, phb and torque arm. So what should my pinion angle be then for a mainly street car.
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
4 up. I would try getting the tailshaft up so it's pointing down 3, or better 2, and then set the pinion to the opposite angle. The less angle on each joint the better, it will cancel more effectively and by extension the less chance there is of vibration. Lower angles also transfer power better.