$800 to rebuild 10 bolt?!
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$800 to rebuild 10 bolt?!
I will be getting the written estimate tomorrow, but over the phone today I was informed it's going to be approximately 800 dollars to rebuild my rear end with aftermarket 3.90s. This estimate includes labor and tax as well as the gears, of course.
Here's the point. It's about a 5 hour job, so labor will be around 3-350 bucks. That means the gears cost 400 as well? I was told that the inspection revealed that the bearings are good, but I'm sure I will have to buy new seals, obviously. Also who knows what to anticipate once they get into doing the job. I'm just frustrated im going to be spending nearly a grand rebuilding this AWESOME 10 bolt junker. Could apply that towards a 12 bolt or 9 inch, something that will last.
Here's the point. It's about a 5 hour job, so labor will be around 3-350 bucks. That means the gears cost 400 as well? I was told that the inspection revealed that the bearings are good, but I'm sure I will have to buy new seals, obviously. Also who knows what to anticipate once they get into doing the job. I'm just frustrated im going to be spending nearly a grand rebuilding this AWESOME 10 bolt junker. Could apply that towards a 12 bolt or 9 inch, something that will last.
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He ordered it without my go ahead yes. The local auto parts store has the same ring and pinion for 220 bucks, the math I have estimated bring the new ring and pinion to 3 or 400 bucks. I feel like they are price jacking the ****. I will find out tomorrow for sure.
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If the written estimate is showing a huge markup on the gears and any seals/bearings are possible "extras, " screw 'em. I wouldn't have them do the work and I wouldn't pay for the part either. You simply asked for a quote. They should never order parts without the customer's go-ahead. And don't let them try to guilt trip you into doing it because of ordering the parts already either. I've seen that tactic used before.
Unless you need the car put back together right away I'd put the money towards a stronger rear. If you do need the car ASAP, get a used working rear axle from a junkyard for a couple hundred bucks and install it yourself.
Unless you need the car put back together right away I'd put the money towards a stronger rear. If you do need the car ASAP, get a used working rear axle from a junkyard for a couple hundred bucks and install it yourself.
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If the written estimate is showing a huge markup on the gears and any seals/bearings are possible "extras, " screw 'em. I wouldn't have them do the work and I wouldn't pay for the part either. You simply asked for a quote. They should never order parts without the customer's go-ahead. And don't let them try to guilt trip you into doing it because of ordering the parts already either. I've seen that tactic used before.
Unless you need the car put back together right away I'd put the money towards a stronger rear. If you do need the car ASAP, get a used working rear axle from a junkyard for a couple hundred bucks and install it yourself.
Unless you need the car put back together right away I'd put the money towards a stronger rear. If you do need the car ASAP, get a used working rear axle from a junkyard for a couple hundred bucks and install it yourself.
200 dollars for a used 10 bolt in a junk yard if you need it back immediatel. You can find used 9 in for 1k or 1200 if you look long and hard enough. 10 bolts really aren't worth building. Especially if you're gonna put a lot of power down and especially if it's a manual car.
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I dont feel thats a bad price. Labor cost more than that. Get them to weld the axle tubes. While your at it put on a good cover. Also; I dont remember the name of the kit I got for mine (maybe raetech) but it had a solid collar that helped to soften the blow from a manual tranny. If your planning on taking it the strip every weekend your wasting your money. If this is mainly a street car with an occasional trip to the strip on street tires I think youll be fine; esp with your current mods.
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Yeah. I mean, the more I think about it the more I realize it's worth the difference. I dont plan on adding a cam and heads for a while. Next thing I'll do is put an intake manifold on and tune it. That'll be it for a while. Save up money for the next shop visit. lol
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I will also mention I plan on taking care of the Bird until I do have some money saved up. It'll be strictly a street car with maybe a few passes a year. Im 21 so I dont exactly have money to budget, but I do plan on getting a beater/DD soon so the ol LS car will be a weekend warrior.
I have a good feeling that if I break the gears in right and drive it nice without beating on it too hard, the 10 bolt will hold for a while. Question is, is it worth it?
I have a good feeling that if I break the gears in right and drive it nice without beating on it too hard, the 10 bolt will hold for a while. Question is, is it worth it?
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Good question. IMO yes. If you weld the tubes, put on a good cover, and the install kit youll be fine. I took mine to a very reputable shop and was told I would be fine with what im making (about 450whp) as long as im not out side stepping the clutch and launching it from every stop sign
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But I will say this; I dont take mine to the track. It would then be a ticking time bomb. Sometime in the future I may piece together a larger 8.xx" 10 bolt or bigger 12 bolt. And then sell my 10 bolt to get back some of my money. The shop told me 450hp maximum but anything under 400 and it would not be an issue; so you will be fine.
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Weld the tubes? And what exactly will a better diff cover do for me? They said the bearings all looked fine, but Ive been told to have them replaced anyway.
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Weld the tubes to the center section. A good diff cover will help to reinforce the rear end. Anytime that rearend bends/flexes under load it alters the tolerances in the rear end at that moment which leads to destruction. Welding the tubes and a good diff cover will help to prevent that. If it were me and its opend up I would def put in new bearings and seals
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They way the factory has the tubes installed in the center section gives them play. Welding them helps to make it a solid piece. When they bend the axle moves; and so on. Ohh and that a very high price just for gears. I got my install kit from thunderracing.com. I think for 450 it included gears, install kit (all bearings/seals for entire rear end) and a cover.
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Tomorrow i will see what the estimate he writes up says. but i thought that was awfully steep.
where should I look to find a ring and pinion set with bearings and seals included? Also possibly with a girdle and diff cover, any other parts that may strengthen the ol 10 bolt and buy me some added time.
where should I look to find a ring and pinion set with bearings and seals included? Also possibly with a girdle and diff cover, any other parts that may strengthen the ol 10 bolt and buy me some added time.
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Got all my parts for my old rear end from summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...20and%20pinion
Held up pretty good before I got a killer deal on my Dana
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...20and%20pinion
Held up pretty good before I got a killer deal on my Dana
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thunder racing is apparently no longer around.
I am looking at motive gear sets and they are all around 300 bucks. I will be eager to see if it 800 dollars for the labor and gears. No way, I will walk away and push my car home. lol
I am looking at motive gear sets and they are all around 300 bucks. I will be eager to see if it 800 dollars for the labor and gears. No way, I will walk away and push my car home. lol