8.8 IRS build WTF - 1/4" movement in pinion!
#1
8.8 IRS build WTF - 1/4" movement in pinion!
I am building my first rear end. For the V. I purchased the Ford Racing gear install kit "for all 8.8 including IRS(with improved GT500 bearing)" and a set of Ford Racing 4.56 gears. Also a TrueTrac but I don't think that matters yet.
So I stripped/cleaned the housing. Measured the pinion head that came out, luckily EXACTLY the same as the new pinion. Go Ford. I used the same pinion(head) bearing shim and pressed that and the new(big) bearing on the pinion. It is seated all the way down. Pressed in the big and small races for the pinion, inserted the rear(small) bearing, oil slinger, and carefully pressed in the rear seal.
(did some measuring for pinion depth and such but you'll see in a sec why these fine measurements don't matter)
I measured the old crush sleeve and set up my (adjustable) crush sleeve eliminator to the same dimension. Placed it on the pinion, pinion in the housing, drive flange(correct orientation; plastic piece to the housing) on the pinion, tightened the pinion nut to at least 200 ft lbs.
Punchline? I can move the pinion in the housing in and out almost 1/4" and I can't figure out why. I removed it several times and even went back with an impact and beat the hell out of it. Still a TON of slack.
Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated. I am learning and lost. And frustrated as hell. Already changed the pinion bearing once, jacking up the other new one on removal. Same issue.
Suspects: somehow I got a housing where someone had half-*** put some gears in there and never crushed the sleeve so my measurement is false? How much does an 8.8 crush sleeve usually "crush?"
Thanks all!
So I stripped/cleaned the housing. Measured the pinion head that came out, luckily EXACTLY the same as the new pinion. Go Ford. I used the same pinion(head) bearing shim and pressed that and the new(big) bearing on the pinion. It is seated all the way down. Pressed in the big and small races for the pinion, inserted the rear(small) bearing, oil slinger, and carefully pressed in the rear seal.
(did some measuring for pinion depth and such but you'll see in a sec why these fine measurements don't matter)
I measured the old crush sleeve and set up my (adjustable) crush sleeve eliminator to the same dimension. Placed it on the pinion, pinion in the housing, drive flange(correct orientation; plastic piece to the housing) on the pinion, tightened the pinion nut to at least 200 ft lbs.
Punchline? I can move the pinion in the housing in and out almost 1/4" and I can't figure out why. I removed it several times and even went back with an impact and beat the hell out of it. Still a TON of slack.
Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated. I am learning and lost. And frustrated as hell. Already changed the pinion bearing once, jacking up the other new one on removal. Same issue.
Suspects: somehow I got a housing where someone had half-*** put some gears in there and never crushed the sleeve so my measurement is false? How much does an 8.8 crush sleeve usually "crush?"
Thanks all!
#5
Yes. And I agree. The bearings are obviously too far apart. but with the right bearings and races, HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE??!! What would cause the gaps not to be closed when i torque the CRAP out of the pinion nut? I'm really scratching my head on this. It occurs to me that if I hadn't properly seated the races, a) the torque would pull them in or b) it would be "tighter" quicker.
Thanks for the attention!
Thanks for the attention!
#7
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#8
Damn you and your good(and should have been obvious to me) ideas. I'll do that tomorrow. Currently the adjustable crush eliminator is a little stuck on the pinion but I'll get it off, 20 ton press willing.
I think both the install kit and the gears both came with a new crush sleeve so I'm a bit rich in that department.
I think both the install kit and the gears both came with a new crush sleeve so I'm a bit rich in that department.
#12
It could have gone on there two ways. One way it slipped right on all the way. The other there was a slight interference fit where the pinion shaft is slightly enlarged toward the seating area for the crush sleeve. I think I was just trying everything, even if it didn't seem like the best idea. The OD of one side of the crush sleeve eliminator is tapered so thinking was maybe this changed how it interfaces with the bearing. Obviously not so but this was the second to last thing I had on my list to try; last being throw it out in traffic.
"Right side up" gave the same end result...just wasn't stuck on the pinion after.
Going to try to get some work out of the way then head to the shop and at least try one of the new crush sleeves.
Anybody got a pic of a crushed 8.8 sleeve so I know how much distance it normally absorbs?
Thanks!
"Right side up" gave the same end result...just wasn't stuck on the pinion after.
Going to try to get some work out of the way then head to the shop and at least try one of the new crush sleeves.
Anybody got a pic of a crushed 8.8 sleeve so I know how much distance it normally absorbs?
Thanks!
#13
Who gets the dumbass of the week award? This guy in the mirror. Should have clicked when I said I had multiple new crush sleeves. And I know I am too lazy to clean the old sleeve that well.
Adjustable came right off and slips on with no resistance the other way around. First pic adj crush sleeve eliminator(Yukon brand). Second pic, crushed sleeve on left, new sleeve on right. So just need to adjust the crush eliminator to that (shorter) height and should be good. At least now I know I can get the thing built when I get back from vacation.
Thanks for the help!
Adjustable came right off and slips on with no resistance the other way around. First pic adj crush sleeve eliminator(Yukon brand). Second pic, crushed sleeve on left, new sleeve on right. So just need to adjust the crush eliminator to that (shorter) height and should be good. At least now I know I can get the thing built when I get back from vacation.
Thanks for the help!