mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Since the differential didn't come with instructions on how to assemble it, I might as well throw these out there.

1. How much pressure is required to get the "wedding ring"/bearing retainer ring on? I have a 12 tonne press, and Strange tells me that I will require 15-20 tonnes of pressure to install it;

2. Once assembled, how are the axles installed into the differential? I am specifically concerned if oil goes on the inner seal surface on the axle shank, and/or if oil/sealant is used on the outer seal surface at the housing ends;

3. Do the axles simply slide in, or do they require "encouragement" to get the outer race to seat in the housing ends?; and

4. Does anyone have a solution for mounting the centre flex line at the centre-section; I don't remember seeing a provision for bolting the junction/distribution block designed into the case.

I have spoken to Strange (claiming to be only a warehouse, and this must be resolved with the vendor) and left a message with Midwest Chassis (the vendor, who have yet to call me back) - so perhaps some 4th party support will resolve this?

Thanks!

1/4insix

Only way to figure out if your press is good enough is just try... what's the worst thing that can happen... it won't press on the bearing /wedding ring and you have to have a shop with a stronger press do the work.


The S60 rearend uses 9" ends, as do most aftermartket rearends. You always put lube on the inner seal surface of any lip seal, a rearend is no different. A little bit of RTV on the outer surface sure wouldn't hurt either.


The axles should go in the housing relatively easy, but I have worked on some that needed a bit of help with a block of wood.


If there is no mounting provision, I'd say drill a 1/4" hole in the webbing close to where the hose needs to be and mount it there.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

1. 12 ton press will work fine, they are tight boogers though so dont expect them to slide on easily.
2. On my 12 bolt, yours is likely the same, if there is an inner oil seal then the wheel bearings are grease lubed, if there isnt then they lube with gear oil from the housing. Mine has an inner seal so theh require separate grease.
3. Very light tapping gets the outer race to go in the housing end. Its a good fit but not overly tight.
4. Probably gonna have to make it work the best way you can. I think I added smaller rubber stick on pads to the axle tubes then tied the lines down where they were sitting on the cushions. Best I could come up with it short notice.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Thanks, gents! And Carl @ CRP for the PM.

This diff looks to be oil lubed, no zerks to be seen. Little odd since the bearings came grease packed.

I took the axles into a powertrain shop in town to have the wedding rings pressed on using a proper hydraulic press; the operator said it took just shy of 10 tonnes to seat them.

Stabbed the axles in tonight lubed inner seal and around the outside of the bearing race and seal, drew them in with the bolts/nuts. Went smooth.

I built a simple bracket using an old 4th gen e-brake cable support to mount the distribution block to, it hangs off a diff cover bolt. Problem solved.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I believe, if memory serves, that the ford housing ends used on most aftermarket rear ends were found to be unsuitable for 12 bolts (no clue the reason). Even when I called Strange directly the dipshit acted like I didnt know what I was talking about when I said I needed new inner oil seals, he swore the bearings were gear oil lubed. It took someone knowledgeable to know they were grease lubed. So both types are out there.

Here's pics of the grease lubed type ends.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...t-install.html

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I definitely didn't get inner grease seals or the ends drilled for grease fittings. I do have LS1 housing ends because I am using LS1 brakes. Interesting.