RW99

I still have the stock rear (3.42) in my '98 M6, and the car has 400 rwhp with 315 Nitto 555R's on the back. I have yet to heat the tires and launch on a sticky surface; current opinion is that if the clutch holds on launch the rear end could easily break.

I know that the stock 10 bolts are less than the cost for a new 12 bolt or 9 inch, but I'm not sure how much (after labor costs, etc.) I have not found a thread that gives me confidence in a specific replacement rear that will: 1. not break, 2. retain ABS, 3. daily drive smoothly without any issues. As for gears, I'd like to move up to at least 3.73.

So I'm wondering if the way to go is to just keep the stock setup 'till it breaks, and then replace it with another stock unit. Drive that one till it breaks. Repeat... etc. Do you guys think that the price of the stockers is cheap enough to make this a legit strategy?

I just don't want to dump the cash into a new Moser or Strange or whatever and have a whole new set of clunky/whining/popping problems. I want to have bulletproof, but I also want to have perfect function. Impossible?

Thanks much for any opinions/info

RW99

One bump only...

I thought I'd hear from at least one person that was just totally thrilled by their setup, and found it to be both bulletproof and smooth. No?

RaNsOm

iTrader: (2)

9" is bulletproof for a 400rwhp car. So is a 12bolt with a spool. The main thing people break in 12bolts is the posi, so get a spool and dont worry about it. Also, Im in the same boat as you. 400rwhp, M6 with McLeod clutch, and Nitto 315 drag radials. Ive cut many 1.8 60's and my rear is still as quiet as the day I bought it. Ive had a TA Girdle on since 20,000 miles, and I have 60,000 now. Same 3.42s that left the factory, same axles, same differential.

TRex

iTrader: (3)

Are you saying you are on the stock rear ?

Kenafin_02TA

We're on our 3rd 10-bolt rear in the Firehawk...it's got a McLeod clutch, cutout, Texas Speed airlid, and FTRA..so it's not much past stock. So far we've managed to break 1 driveshaft, 1 carrier, 1 posi-unit, wear out 1 posi unit, and wear out 1 carrier. The first rear we managed to replace fairly cheaply...only a couple of hundred dollars..the second one cost us closer to a thousand dollars because we replaced the whole housing and everything that time. The price we've paid for replacing the 2 rears, we've almost paid for a 12-bolt. We've got to go with a 12-bolt because we only have abs (no traction control) so we can't get a 9". And my fiance who drives the Firehawk wants to keep abs, and doesn't want a spool which means we'll probably be replacing a few posi unit's...but it will hopefully be better than if we kept throwing 10-bolts at it. He's partially nuts and wants to do the high rpm launches..so we need something that will hold it better than a 10-bolt if we're lucky.

Ransom, what rpm are you launching at? Also, how are you doing your burnouts? 1st gear? 2nd gear? line-lock?

IMO..an M6 that manages to survive on a 10-bolt is lucky....heck..I'm on my 2nd in my automatic WS6...and I'm leary about launching it cause the convertor I have in it sure is hitting hard.....

But to answer your question..from my experiance...the shops around me charge the same within $50 to install a rear whether it's a 10-bolt..12-bolt..etc...usally about $250 in my area. So we're pretty much looking at the cost of parts. This is going to vary depending on if you're buying from a junk yard, someone selling their old rear..or buying "new". Just guessing from my experiance...after 3-4 10-bolts..you'd be at the price of the 12-bolt/9"...or close to it. (unless you can get awesome deals on the parts and do all the work yourself.)

RaNsOm

iTrader: (2)

BONE stock with the addition of a TA Girdle. Maybe they actually help that much that it'll prolong its life.

RaNsOm

iTrader: (2)

Burnouts done with brakestands since I got the car, but the last couple times Ive been using a linelock. 1st gear burnouts. For the first couple years I would launch at 2500-3000 and bog terribly to horrible 2.1 and 2.0 60's. Now Ive finaly got the hang of launching at 4000 and spinning and slightly bogging to 1.8 and 1.9's

Viper

iTrader: (6)

400HP here, 10 bolt with T2R, girdle, stud kit and solid pinion racer. 4K dumps on street, haven't gone to the track. Nittos.

I'm sure if I bolted up some M/T's it 'might' stress the rear a little....