I keep on burning up the clutches in rear
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I keep on burning up the clutches in rear
Whenever I do hot lapping at the track, I seem to be burning up my clutches. On my last rear, the builder did something extra to hopefully prevent this from occuring again, but it didnt' help. After my last visit to the track the rear started to make noise again. I drained the drained the fluid and put some new stuff in. Drove 5 or so miles and drained it again to clean it out. But the second time I put in some Mobil 1 75-140, hoping it would quiet things down. At first it was just as noisy, but after driving for a while it eventually quieted things down.
What could be done to prevent this? I know road racers use rear end coolers, but would that work for the strip? I don't want to waste $500+ on a setup that'll do nothing but add weight. TIA!
What could be done to prevent this? I know road racers use rear end coolers, but would that work for the strip? I don't want to waste $500+ on a setup that'll do nothing but add weight. TIA!
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It sounds like you are running an Eaton posi but I need you to confirm before I can help you. If so the synthetic oil is not recomended for that unit because the oil eats at the bonding agent for the clutches and they will come off the disc.
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LOL, well then through my reply out the window then.
Here's an idea, check your tire diameter and see if the tires are different sizes. I am building a C5 center right now for a local customer and I have the differential apart. The clutches are in good shape in this one but is still uses the stock beville washer. Have you replaced it with a DTE washers? They help to load up the clutches more so they will not slip as much.
Here's an idea, check your tire diameter and see if the tires are different sizes. I am building a C5 center right now for a local customer and I have the differential apart. The clutches are in good shape in this one but is still uses the stock beville washer. Have you replaced it with a DTE washers? They help to load up the clutches more so they will not slip as much.
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This has happend to me using BFG DR's, MT E.T. Streets, and now with Hoosiers, so I doubt overall diameter has anything to do with it, good point though.
The clutches were either shimmed or DTE washer were used. I know they did something to them on the last rebuild since this appears to be a reoccuring problem. IIRC, a few pieces were welded together from heat, and I was really lucky they have extra parts around.
The clutches were either shimmed or DTE washer were used. I know they did something to them on the last rebuild since this appears to be a reoccuring problem. IIRC, a few pieces were welded together from heat, and I was really lucky they have extra parts around.
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Wow, I'm at a loss of words. I have never seen that happen to a set of clutch packs. Maybe opening up the holes that feed oil to the spider gears might help. The differential case is aluminum and can be drilled for more oiling, but where do you drill? I'll look at what I have apart and see if I can come up with something that might help.
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Originally Posted by BLOWNGS
Thanks!
So you think a cooler for a road race car wouldn't help?
So you think a cooler for a road race car wouldn't help?
Thats questionable since you are not hurting any bearings or the gear. Drilling some oil passages into the differential is your only choice, maybe try to drill into it so you get the splash off of the ring and pinion. I have looked at the one I have and I will take some pics to show you what I am talking about.
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I looked and the oiling holes are along the ring gear and there are only 2 of them. Each measured about 1/4 of an inch, have you opened these up any? You could deffinetly drill some holes in to the case were the clutches sit, that wouldn't effect strength any.
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Last edited by Scott@DrivelineSolutions; 03-14-2006 at 12:22 AM.