firebirdman469

iTrader: (3)

So there is something wrong with my stock driveshaft. It makes a real loud "tink" noise when I put my car into gear. I am looking into replacing it, but I have no idea what to replace it with.....Any suggestions?

If you could send me a link to it that would be great...(cheapest price too )

Thanks guys,

James

Sweet71

iTrader: (10)

Have you ever change your U-Joins??

firebirdman469

iTrader: (3)

I had them checked out and they are fine...When the car was on the hoist, they held onto the driveshaft while putting it in gear and it didn't make the noise. When they let go and put it in gear, it made the noise. They said it was the aluminum driveshaft dampener?? (I think that's what they called it)

That's why I am just looking to replace the whole thing....unless you think it could be something else..

john563

iTrader: (17)

PST from Bob @ EPP

cam

iTrader: (9)

You cant really check the joints properly unless you take the shaft out of the car. For the four bolts and fifteen minutes of effort jack up the **** end of it and check it you really should. You'll likely find a roasted u joint this damper theory sounds like a farce to me.

Provided the shaft is okay you dont need a shaft upgrade with your small mods man but if your bent on one then absolutely Bob from EPP has the deal for you. Requires a new pinion yoke too though

Heres a link

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/576641-3-5-aluminum-driveshaft-1200-hp-rating.html

ls1_doc

iTrader: (6)

It sounds more like the pinion bearing is loose. There is a nut that holds all that in once you pull the drive shaft. I would check that.

cam

iTrader: (9)

Possible but highly unlikely. Usually when this happens your rear is literally moments away from failure not to mention it would start pissing lube out of the pinion seal accompanied with a symphony of horrid noises.

The "tinking" noise is common for u joint failure. Find yourself a new garage if you cant fix it yourself firebirdman these guys are taking you for a ride.

firebirdman469

iTrader: (3)

First off, they took the driveshaft out, and inspected the U-joints to make sure they were good. This was before they put it back in and held onto it...My rear has a MINOR leak of fluid, but I believe it is no worse than any other F-body. I don't know of any other "reputable" transmission shops around my area. Plus, I am looking into buying a Yank SS3600, B&M Trans Cooler, and Transgo shift kit as we speak....So an upgrade wouldn't be that bad of an idea.

Also, I heard that aluminum isn't the way to go with driveshafts....I have heard that Chromemoly, or steel is the way to go....any input??

cam

iTrader: (9)

Info is key if you want accurate help.

Ya most guys will tell you Chrome for racing, Steel for street BUT... EPP has a lifetime replacement guarantee and there are plenty of guys running their shafts with a lot more power than you and to my knowledge no one has broken one yet. Besides you said price was a factor. Good luck finding a better deal than EPP's shaft.

I'm over 400 rwhp on an M6 running one and its smooth as butter. So far a few dozen high RPM clutch dumps and all is well

SSinNC

I'm like the rest of these guys, I bought my PST from Bob at EPP. Great guy to deal with, and the driveshaft is smooth as butter.

firebirdman469

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info.

Enforcerws6

iTrader: (1)

Go with the driveshaft from Bob I got one a while back to bad I never have gotten it in the car yet as I am lazy. But customer service is great and its a nice piece and like everyone said its good for lifetime and no one complaines about them at all that I have seen.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Thanks everyone. An aluminum driveshaft is going to transmit very few vibrations, compared to a steel driveshaft, plus they are lighter. These 3.5" alum driveshafts are rated at 1200 hp, and come with a lifetime warranty!
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=541 Bob