Dissapointing dyno numbers.
#1
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Dissapointing dyno numbers.
Okay so I got my car dyno'ed today and I'm kind of dissapointed to say the least.
My mods are Pacesetter LT's, ORY, TSP Rumbler CB, SLP Lid with K&N which was pretty dirty, 3400 stall, and 3.42s. Untuned. It was also knock retarding according to his EFI live the stock computer was pulling about 3 degrees out.
It was on a mustang dyno converter locked my best numbers were 303HP 303TQ.
I was pretty dissapointed because my 00 WS6 M6 dynoed 312/324 stock, but that was on a dyno jet.
so the guy showed my a graph on the computer from a 04 GTO bone stock it dynoed 270/270 so it made me feel a little better.
What do you guys think?
My mods are Pacesetter LT's, ORY, TSP Rumbler CB, SLP Lid with K&N which was pretty dirty, 3400 stall, and 3.42s. Untuned. It was also knock retarding according to his EFI live the stock computer was pulling about 3 degrees out.
It was on a mustang dyno converter locked my best numbers were 303HP 303TQ.
I was pretty dissapointed because my 00 WS6 M6 dynoed 312/324 stock, but that was on a dyno jet.
so the guy showed my a graph on the computer from a 04 GTO bone stock it dynoed 270/270 so it made me feel a little better.
What do you guys think?
#2
The automatic with the 3200 stall will steal a lot of power. Most of the high stall auto guys don't worry about dyno numbers for this reason, they just go to the track and see what it will do. Thats more accurate as to its actual performance.
Clean your air filter and find out why you were getting knock retard. Even 3 degrees of timing can really kill your numbers.
Also, how do you have 3.42's in an auto car?? You swap them in??
Clean your air filter and find out why you were getting knock retard. Even 3 degrees of timing can really kill your numbers.
Also, how do you have 3.42's in an auto car?? You swap them in??
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Yes I swapped the 3.42s in and as for the air filter a bunch of us just went to watch my buddy get his car dyno'ed so I wasn't planning on doing it when we got there more people wanted to do it so they talked me into it because they would get a discount.
Also tried to spray it but he had his EFI live hooked to it and it hit 7 degrees of KR so we aborted that run.
Also tried to spray it but he had his EFI live hooked to it and it hit 7 degrees of KR so we aborted that run.
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I'd be more worried as to why the PCM is pulling the timing. Just for comparison, my car put down 320 rwhp with my aftermarket torque converter when it had full bolt on and stock cam.
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#8
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They are a little bit low, but not that low. Are you throwing any codes that might help you to figure out why it's pulling timing? If your filter is pretty dirty, I would put money down that your MAF is dirty. You could probably pick up a few HP by doing a tune up if you haven't in a while.. Regardless, dyno numbers don't matter.
#9
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I have damn close to the same mods as you minus the catback exhaust and I put in a 3500 stall converter and my numbers were 317hp and 329 ft/lbs.. Dyno numbers for an auto car are always disappointing for the most part. M6's have the high numbers so just know that the number you have is going to the ground and be happy about it. My dad still tells me that my car is stupid fast for so close to stock. I believe he is right about our cars.
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Those numbers seem about right for a mustang dyno, those mods, and 806 heads/LS1 intake.
You might be ~10rwhp down or so, but that's likely due to the KR. Fix that, and you'll probably hit 310+rwhp on the same dyno....more on a dynojet.
You might be ~10rwhp down or so, but that's likely due to the KR. Fix that, and you'll probably hit 310+rwhp on the same dyno....more on a dynojet.
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The tuner said it could be getting the KR from the exhaust hitting or something but idk about that cuz we hit the spray for a couple seconds and the KR went all the way to 7 degrees.
#15
The fact that the knock increased when you sprayed may indicate that it was actual knock instead of false knock.
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+1 gotta put my LS6 intake on first.
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An engine life spent living on CA-grade 91 octane under unknown driving conditions from previous owners means that you might have a lot of carbon build up in the combustion chambers and/or fouled injector tips.
I'd spend some time on a major tune-up before digging any deeper. Seafoam via a vacuum line for the top end cleaning, Red Line and/or Seafoam treatment in the fuel (for the injectors & top end), new fuel filter, new plugs, clean/replace air filter, and do a good cleaning on the MAF. Do all that, and you should be rid of any actual detonation.
I'd spend some time on a major tune-up before digging any deeper. Seafoam via a vacuum line for the top end cleaning, Red Line and/or Seafoam treatment in the fuel (for the injectors & top end), new fuel filter, new plugs, clean/replace air filter, and do a good cleaning on the MAF. Do all that, and you should be rid of any actual detonation.