What should my next mod be?
#1
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
What should my next mod be?
I'm sorry for this but I'm going to name everything I've done so you guys can give advice to the best of your ability. The car is mainly a track/weekend car keep in mind. I'm running a ported FAST 102, 102 TB, SLP maf, SLP lid, SLP cold air scoop, PRC 215s, MS4, ported oil pump, LS2 chain, SLP underdrive, TICK level II, MWC 9", Tick mc, after market LCAs, panhard bar, sfcs, cut stock springs, mgw short throw, line lock, 2 step, and TT II's. I've been thinking about a set of skinnys and the CHRS1313 ram air? What do you guys think? Track times are my main priority but I'm up for anything. My windows are tinted, I've got the Ceta mod and black lettering. And you've probably figured out by now its a T/A. What do you think? Thanks
#7
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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i had a buddy that sprayed his stock gto with a 200 shot for a couple seasons and its still running around... i have a somewhat similar setup, and i plan on having a 150 shot on standby for the highway
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#8
I'm sorry for this but I'm going to name everything I've done so you guys can give advice to the best of your ability. The car is mainly a track/weekend car keep in mind. I'm running a ported FAST 102, 102 TB, SLP maf, SLP lid, SLP cold air scoop, PRC 215s, MS4, ported oil pump, LS2 chain, SLP underdrive, TICK level II, MWC 9", Tick mc, after market LCAs, panhard bar, sfcs, cut stock springs, mgw short throw, line lock, 2 step, and TT II's. I've been thinking about a set of skinnys and the CHRS1313 ram air? What do you guys think? Track times are my main priority but I'm up for anything. My windows are tinted, I've got the Ceta mod and black lettering. And you've probably figured out by now its a T/A. What do you think? Thanks
#13
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Thread Starter
It runs 11.66 @ 120 at Bristol (the slowest place in the world). Last time I raced there DA was around 4000ft and my cam only car was running 2mph faster than normal that day. On the 11.66 @ 120 pass I'm cutting a best 1.71 60ft on a set of 26 10.5 16 et street bias plys mounted on a set of stock camaro wheels. I've got a 275 40 17 up front on a TT II wheel. Only weight reduction is no spare tire and jack and no AIR system and I'm running dumped duals.
#15
11 Second Club
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I didn't see an aftermarket tq arm in your list. I'd suggest one if you don't and also a lighter k member with some QA1's or AFCO's and MWC'S front and rear lightweight bumper supports. That will bring the 60's down to some low 1.5's or mid to high 1.4's which should equal to a .6 tenths drop.
Your to that point where you have enugh power but, there's too much "motion in the ocean." The car needs to be smooth coming out the gates to produce the short times to go with the trap speed.
Your to that point where you have enugh power but, there's too much "motion in the ocean." The car needs to be smooth coming out the gates to produce the short times to go with the trap speed.
Last edited by blue98Z; 07-03-2012 at 01:53 PM.
#16
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Thread Starter
Torque arms come with the MWC set ups. Mine is the long one. What would be most important having the QA1s in the front or the rear? What about relocating the battery to the trunk? Is it better to buy the 90 dollar battery case and get the cables elsewhere or is it a better deal to just get the Tick kit that has everything for 250?
#18
#19
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Torque arms come with the MWC set ups. Mine is the long one. What would be most important having the QA1s in the front or the rear? What about relocating the battery to the trunk? Is it better to buy the 90 dollar battery case and get the cables elsewhere or is it a better deal to just get the Tick kit that has everything for 250?
The shocks really push the nose of the car up on launch and even though the KYB's fight them the car doesn't rock nearly as bad as it use to with a stock shock setup. Now the front comes down smooth and controlled yet fast thanks to the KYB's. I'm planning on relocating my battery as well but, I'm gonna check on prices of piecing it together myself or just buying a kit.