LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I did my MCCC treatment on my 427ci at 117,000 miles, its worked great. And that was done like 2 weeks after I did 3 Sea Foam top end treatments. But then I realized how ridiculous Sea Foam in the top end was....its a waste, unless you like just cleaning 3-4 cylinders. Thats the purpose of MCCC, high mileage dirty engines. A newer car has absolutely no need for it. Its for dirty, older engines.

I personally do that every 3-4 months. 1/4 - 1/2 tank of gas and run it out. You could use it for the crankcase when you change your oil, just put a can in, idle it for 15 minutes right before the oil change, then dump it out and do an oil change. I personally like to use "engine flush" instead. Its worked beautifully for all my cars for two decades.

I hear ya. I don't see how it can hurt. Never heard of anything negative happening.


JUST MY OPINION.

Oil companies say the dumbest **** I've ever heard. The entire life of your engine as its running, its always shedding metal shavings. Those shavings are always flowing through the oil. Thats why our oil drain plugs are magnetic, to catch those little powder like shavings. I've taken my plug our and seen this stuff many times over the years, its not chunks...its like metal powder, it smears on your finger. This crap roams around and around the engine as its running. Yeah, there's a filter, but very tiny particles will always get through. Thats what wears an engine out over time. What else is there that can wear out an engine except metal on metal wear and contaminants...nothing, right?

Thats why, at every oil change, I flush just about ALL the old **** out....so I can truly start fresh each time. I don't care what expert engine builders say or any oil company...that is a key to a long lasting engine. And I'm not just talking a high mileage engine, I'm talking a high mileage engine that still runs like its new. Powerhouse, silent and never broke down once. I KNOW its because I flush my engine each time, its the only thing I do differently than dozens of friends over the years that can't brwak 60,000 with a built engine. They won't listen. 427ci's are not supposed to last 120,000 miles and still be perfect.

Amsoil......I have no idea about that stuff. I will never use a synthetic oil. Regular non-synthetic oils are all I ever use. I do 3,000 mile changes. Nothing can beat that for engine longevity. To me, oil is one of those things that people put WAY TOO MUCH thought into. Its like arguing about air filters...they are there for engine protection, mainly to protect the piston rings from very small particles that over time wear them out prematurely...but people use K&N's with oils on them and have less protection to gain ~1 hp.....pretty funny.


Do the MCCC, you'll clean that thing out big time. I'm doing another one in about 3 weeks after I figure out what my final PCV set up is going to be. Then I'll never have another drop of oil enter my intake again, just air.

.

add|ct

OK I did my first can of MCCC last night.

I took the PCV out of the hose leading to the intake and the RPMs immediately jumped to an idle of 1,500 RPM from 750. We mistakenly only put in half the can when we cut the engine. Realizing I was putting it in at an angle, STUPID, we cut the engine back on a minute later and finish off the can with the help of a funnel. Now, with the engine killed again, perhaps having wasted some of the treatment, we let it sit for 15 minutes because of time constraints only.

After the wait, I reconnected the PCV to the intake and started the engine. Letting it idle for a few seconds at its norm of 750, I next gave it some revs to 1,500 and then let off to see how it idled back down. Sure enough, the car almost stalled, but the foam had just enough air in it that it didn't kill the spark. Interestingly, we noticed some of the smoke coming from cylinder 3 and/or 4 from where the spark plug sits. Maybe a leak at the ring seal? This car had the overhead gasket rings to 'shrink' and had allowed oil to pool on top of the plugs. This was when I first had purchased the car at 88,000 and fixed the problem within 10,000 miles. No more leaks or oil after replacing these rings, but perhaps the seal just isn't perfect? Anyway...

So, following the smoke coming from the plug, I revved up to 2,500 RPMs and back to 1,500 for a couple of minutes. The entire front yard got a blanket of smoke. Then, I did some quick punches to rev from 750 to 2,000 rpms. All of this was done in about 5 minutes since restarting the car.

Lastly, my buddy and I went for a ride. Needless to say we needed some fresh air after all of the fumes from the can so let the windows down. Drove to the end of the neighborhoods street to the highway and eased into the first take off, when my buddy said it was smoking good I went ahead to WOT. After this, I did some U-turns and punched it WOT at least 4 more times, then back to the house.

I'd like to do it again and let it sit longer/be sure to get the entire can in there the first time.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

You must have alot of **** in there, because 15 minutes just isn't enough time. When you do it again, let it sit for at least 1 hour, maybe 2 hours if you can. Longer the better.

Also, do it AFTER the engine is already hot.

.

firechicken99

iTrader: (7)

interesting... im curious to see what happens after i do the treatment on mine with the 95k and im sure its never been done before lol. Im going to see if i can get down to my dodge today and pick the stuff up, along with a can of seafoam for the gas tank

was just wondering too, would this be a bad idea to use on a 98 civic ex with 95hp? lol gotta love the DD car that gets 35 mpg haha

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Make sure when you do your car, let it sit at least 1 hour, and make sure when you spray it in its already hot. When you start it after the hour, let it idle for about 30 seconds...then blip the throttle to like 2,000rpm constantly to see if it smokes alot like that. Just like in the video on the first page of this thread. Do that until it stops smoking from the blips. Then let it idle for another minute or so, then drive it.

I don't know about the Honda, I would think it would be just fine...but I don't know.


.

firechicken99

iTrader: (7)

i Just finished my MCCC treatment! It was very easy, there is quite a bit of suction from the PVC inlet then even with a short amount of hose it easily sucked in the MCCC without making a mess. However it did smoke surprisingly less than i expected, though i should note that i did swap out the old intake for an ls6 probably 8 or so months back that was supposed to be off of a newer vette, id imagine it wasnt too dirty. It still smoked quite a bit and if i moved the car to get the smoke blowing away from so wouldnt choke, it would only follow me lol. after a few WOT runs everything is running great.

My only setback was that at the very beginning startup within a minute i threw an SES code, i will check on it a little later to see what it is, though I have a feeling it was because of all the smoke going through the exhaust and the o2 sensors and will likely go away after some driving. hopefully. I gotta run out so im going to put the can of seafoam in my gas tank and run it as dry as i can.


So far looks like this product is great as stated!

LOL i was writing this as you posted. I let it sit for just under an hour, probably around 50ish minutes but i did exactly that then took it for a drive, rolled into wot slowly twice then two other times let it ripped! The rolling in was interesting though with my 4400 stall lol. It screams great just like it did before!

BTW i also recorded mine on the cam and will post it here once i find the damn cable

add|ct

Oh, yeah it was at full-temp when we put the stuff in. The only problem was mistakenly putting the can in at an angle and not getting it all in there at once, you know the fumes kinda make it hard to think straight. haha.

If anything, it was a nice prep-treatment for a full hour sit my next time. I'll probably get another can next weekend and let it sit longer.

SSmokin99SS

iTrader: (3)

LS6427,
When you say you flush the oil out at every oil change, what do you mean?
I know some will pull the fuel pump fuse and turn the engine over to try and spit out any oil still in the engine. I've never done that(little scared lol) but I usually do try and have the engine pretty hot.
Do you have a specific technique? thanks.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

OH MY GOD...don't ever pull that fuse and turn the engine over with no oil in it, you'll have zero oil pressure and you can damage a main/rod bearings rather quickly doing that. If you scratch or score a bearing you can have really low oil pressure all the time after that.
The engine flush will do the work to thin out the old oil and it will almost all come out when you drain it.

I do my oil change after the engine is hot. Two different ways to do it.

1) Time saver method.
I drain about half the old oil out and then put the drain plug back in. (make sure you have at least 2 qrts still in the pan)
Then I pour two bottles of engine flush in.
Start it up and run it for about 5 minutes.
Then drain it all and do a normal oil change. (new filter and new oil)

2) Better way to get it cleaner.
Drain ALL of the old oil out.
Put 2 qrts of new oil in first. (cheapest oil possible $5.00)
Then pour the 2 bottles of engine flush in. (do not pour this in first, you want the oil to get sucked up first on start-up)
Run it for 5 minutes.
Then drain it out and do a normal oil change. (new filter and oil)

I also drain mine so the drain hole is the lowest point so every bit of it drains out. Almost a half qrt can get stuck i nthe oil pan if your front end is raised or if your on inclined driveway. I do mine pointing down the driveway. I let it drip out for like 1 hour so pretty much all of it gets out. You will never ever get it ALL out, but damn near.

Thats what I do.

.

PAGregSS

iTrader: (10)

Pulling the fuel pump fuse will not effect oil pressure at all. The oil pump is not an electric pump. You'd have to take your front cover off and pull your timing chain off to stop the pump from pumping oil. If your starter is turning the motor, the oil pump is turning.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like to me, someone has told him drain all the old oil out....THEN....pull that fuse and turn the engine over to get all the remaining oil out.

In this case...there will be ZERO oil pressure.

ZERO oil = ZERO oil pressure = DAMAGE


.

great421

iTrader: (1)

OK, I did my experiment with MCCC on my LT1 yesterday, and I'm pleased with the results - I cannot confirm that the white smoke is actually carbon build-up exiting the engine vs. just the MCCC burning up (more likely it's a combination of the two...).

That being said, the engine now idles smoother, so, I can say there is more than simply a placebo effect; and at $7.26 (after tax) the stuff is cheaper than Sea Foam! : )

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Most get smoke for a good 10 minutes, then while they're driving for a little while.

The MCCC chemical itself out of the top end and cylinders in a matter of seconds after you start the engine.


.

firechicken99

iTrader: (7)

WHAT a freaking joke, i paid $13

SSmokin99SS

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the advice. And don't worry I don't pull the fuse.But I have read of other people doing it in order to spit out any remaining oil in the crankcase /oil pump(?) area. I think you guys are misunderstanding the concept behind it. It's not to stop the oil pump, of course I know that's mechanically driven. The same effect could be achieved by disabling the ignition. The idea is to just crank the engine over a few times enough to spit any remaining oil in the engine out, not spin it enough to cause damage. This is of course not for the faint of heart, and I'm not that ballsy when it comes to my 8 grand built engine. BTW do you have a rec. for a particular brand of engine flush? Again thanks for the great advice.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Believe me, I knew exactly what you meant the first time you explained it, just pulling a fuse so the engine won't start and get as much oil out as possible. NOT GOOD and there's really no way another drop will come out of the oil pan drain hole by doing that. The oil pump would have nothing to pick up from the completely empty pan, so it would spit about a tablespoon of oil into the dirty old filter, and it would end there.

Like I said, there's no way to get it all out unless you did like 3 flushes, but thats just way overkill.

I always use "Gunk" brand engine flush.


.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Anyone know how best to use the stuff on a 3.8L V6? It has a totally different PCV setup, the valve has no hose on it or anything. Probably wouldn't be a bad thing to clean out my V6 Camaro.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Gotta find a vacuum port on the intake, any one will do.


.

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

I can't believe you flush your engine everytime you change the oil.
Or even every other. That stuff is hard on the internals of an engine.(seals etc.) And if you're doing changes at regular intervals it's not needed.
Just seems like a lot of wasted effort in my opinion, and possibly shortening the life of an engine.
Who told you to do this all the time?

91RS383

^^ I agree, no offense LS6427, but I do not recommend putting anything in your oil. I've noticed that you're the one that needs to run 20W50 oil and still had oil running through your old PCV system. I've got great oil pressure with 0W30 oil, albeit I don't have the same number of miles as you.