V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

Does anyone know if the type of plastic that the coolant recovery tanks are made of is something that can be re-shaped with a heat gun? I only have a new Dorman unit that I'm trying to see if I can modify the bottom of to clear an intercooler and I don't want to make it non-returnable unless I know there's a chance. I'd try it with my old one but I threw it away a few months ago before I came to this road lol.

Thanks

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If I recall correctly, it's ABS. You won't be able to re-shape it, but you could possibly cut it and weld new pieces in to reshape it. When you do this, it will just throw off your dipstick, so you'll probably want to measure the volume of the tank against the dipstick levels so you can re-calibrate the stick when you are done.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Or just get rid of the tank altogether. I haven't had a tank for the past 1 1/2 years.

If coolant blows out of the radiator into that tank you have a problem that needs addressing.......

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wssix99

iTrader: (5)

What do you do for expansion and contraction and/or pressure regulation when the system heats up?

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

I imagine if I sprayed down the local track pushing coolant and didn't have a recovery tank, I'd be a real popular guy.
My main reason for having it there is that for now I need the battery hold-down at the same time. I bought a nice billet battery mount, but after getting it, it doesn't fit in the stock location. I wanted to put it in the back of the car but can't put it where I want, yet (and satisfy NHRA rules for battery boxes). At this point, I need a coolant tank, and I need a battery tray. I just need to make it fit so I don't lose another summer with the car not ready.

I'll just bite the bullet and give it a try tomorrow. If it doesn't work and I wreck it, I'll just have to trim it and just use it as a battery mount until I can come up with a better fix.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I don't think you will be able to thermally form this. It's a part that is designed to hold 200+ degree fluid and lives in the engine bay. It should be able to firmly hold its shape under heat.

You can weld it. You just need a plastic welder. The last time I looked, they weren't cheap but you may be able to find a local body shop that has one and can fab up what you need.

Another thought - these things seem to get brittle over time and its really common for the battery holder to break. You may want to purchase a new/fresh tank for your modification so that you don't have to turn around and re-do this job in 6 months, etc. if the battery mount goes on you.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Dont even entertain those silly statements

L92 OLDS

Coolant overflow reservoirs are blow molded using a THERMOPLASTIC resin which means they can be melted over and over. Many thermoplastics have an HDT (heat deflection temperature) well above the operating temperature of an engine. (I do this for a living). If it was a thermoset plastic this would not be possible. With that said, you might be successful modifying the shape of a reservoir with a heat gun but unless you have a good way to form the molten resin while it's pliable, the results will likely resemble a kindergarten project.

Keep us posted

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

For the first 8 years I had my car not a single drop of coolant ever got pushed into my overflow tank. It was bone dry for 8 years.

The past year + with my new 390ci iron block.....not a drop ever leaves my radiator. If you don't overheat.....and over-pressurize.....no coolant leaves the radiator. I dont even have an overflow tank on my car....not since the new 390ci went in. Radiator is topped off all the time......

Just a very cool running engine/cooling system.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

No.....you wouldn't be to popular. If I was hitting the track I'd have an overflow tank in my car too....but for street driving....no need for it.

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wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You also run a full metal radiator right? I suspect the pressure increase would crack a stock radiator.

The stock radiator and cap bleeds fluid to the tank as the engine comes up to temperature and siphons coolant back in as it cools. I'd also expect that folks in climates with wilder temperature swings would see a greater effect here.

I recall from that the vacuum created at cool-down is of more concern than the higher pressures. (Presumably since the system is designed to be pressurized.)

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Then, why don't you help us out with some information instead of leaving the OP to an experiment/craft project?

Where does ABS fall? If its a thermoplastic, what's the temperature that the OP needs to hit?

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

I researched and found that ABS can be molded, but with all the give and takes here, I just returned the new tank and am going to do it different. I'll just make a billet battery tray that WILL fit, and put a coolant catch can somewhere else.

Thanks for all the input anyway guys

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

No....LT1 radiator since 2002........it lasted till 2 months ago.

I just changed my radiator due to one of the plastic plugs that was installed back in 2002 when I removed the factory tranny cooler from the passengers side plastic tank....the gasket on that plug started to deteriorate and leak coolant. So I just put in another LT1 radiator 2 months ago.

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Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Older cars didn't have expansion tanks, you'd just leave air in the radiator to account for expansion. My Dad's Nova runs like that. It's not optimal, but it works. If running without an expansion tank works for you, that's fine. It's still much easier and safer on the cooling system to have one, especially on newer cars where manufacturers like to run them hot for emissions.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

My understanding is that the tank is required with the stock LS1 radiator due to the plastic parts on the unit.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Since we are discussing plastic welding I give my limited experience. I have always used a hot knife/soldering iron.....the cheap one. It works awesome on abs and atv plastics. It is slow and tedious but the repair is legit. I tried it once on a stock GM bumper (urethane I guess) and nothing I did would melt it where it was workable. That **** would just assume set itself on fire and burn to a crisp before allowing you to weld it. For abs filler I have sheets laying around and just cut them into thin strips with a razor and use them as makeshift welding rods. Works awesome.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Naw....as long as you don't overheat and then in turn over-pressurize......not a drop will get pushed out.

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