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What's the best engine oil weight?

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Old 09-25-2015, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
BITOG is great, but not so much for the pedestrian reader. I don't know how anyone other than a chemist or a mechanical engineer can digest everything that is said there.
Yes, true.

BUT, the same could be said for this site when people start talking about various cam specs, and STRs (stall/torque ratios), etc., and their subsequent results performance wise.
Or when everyone over on frrax.com starts talking about instant centers, polar moments, and damper (shock) graphs, etc., and how they relate to vehicle dynamics/handling/braking.

The suggestion to go on bitog and check out Motor Oil 101 is a GREAT one, IF one wants to know what they are really looking for in an engine oil for their application(s).

Last edited by dailydriver; 09-25-2015 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 09-25-2015, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Firebrian
One concern for the wide range oils like 0W-40 vs a 5w-30 or even a 10w-30 is that the wider ranges for years had more potential for shearing at higher temps and losing their punch over the oil change interval....essentially dropping back to a lesser rated oil. That's not really the case today where they can get the 0w-40 rating with a minimal of viscosity index improvers, allowing the oil to stay close to that original rating for the OCI. At least that's what I'm reading....and what oil analysis samples show.
It's not just the better base stocks being used (which have a much higher natural viscosity index than lesser base stocks), but even when viscosity index improvers ARE added, they are of the latest, greatest, and LEAST shear prone (some even say shear PROOF!) type available.
One could NOT have an > 200 VI finished product without using these, no matter HOW costly/great the base stock.

These is NO comparison between these new type viscosity index improvers and the 'MUST shear' old school type used in the old mineral based oils of yesteryear.
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Old 09-25-2015, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
I think Jake's picture in the staff lounge may have precipitated an impurity of your precious bodily fluids. This has caused you to display a type of logic that may begin to scare the normal people. Shame on Jake.
No. I just hate changing my oil. This will change once the house is done to the point that I can install a lift in the garage.

I also want my engine to fail. (... gently) This is the only way the Mrs. will approve an investment in a performance rebuild. Fortunately, she t-boned one of my fenders with her truck and I'm going to get a paint job out of that one!
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:44 PM
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I've continued to read more on oil specs just for the "fun" of it. And I can't say there's one answer since so much depends on just how you drive your car and the weather it is subjected to. I've narrowed it down to 3 choices for F body LS-1, at least for me: Factory recommended 5W-30 (API SN, ACEA A1/B1), 0W-40 and 0W-30 (ACEA European spec synthetics A3/B4 meeting MB, Porsche, BMW, Volvo standards for a 30 wt oil at the end of the OCI). Most agree that for non-racing applications anything 0/5W-30/40 will work. I'd say the 5W-30 Mobil 1 and and other comparable synthetics have about the minimal viscosity and additives that I would accept. 5W-30 is a bit light on HTHS KV 150 deg C (3.1 cp). But it won't flow any better in cold temps that those higher 0w30 wt and 0w40 wt oils...It will give less ash sulfation.

If I could find the 0w-30 Euro spec'd oil (such as Castrol GC where it's made now) for the same price as the readily available 0w-40 Mobil 1, Castrol, Pennzoil, etc. I'd probably go with that. But, the 0w-30 appears to be difficult to find in the 5 qt jugs at comparable prices to those others more readily available performance oils. And to get the 0W-30 in Mobil 1 you have to AFE which has other limitations. I don't care about fuel economy but rather engine long life and high temp protection.

Last edited by Firebrian; 12-24-2016 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 09-30-2015, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Firebrian
One obvious difference with the 0w-40 vs. the higher levels of phosphorus (1000 ppm) and zinc (1100 ppm). Is that extra amount of phosphorus over the typically seen 800 ppm in other US spec'd oils of any concern to catalytic converters? I wouldn't think so unless it's the difference between getting 100K out of cat and maybe 125K? And that assumes you get significant phosphorus (and zinc) in the oil to leak by and end up in the cat.
This is why you don't see an ILSAC rating of "GF-5" or any statement of "energy/resource conserving" on the label for the M1 0w40. It still meets the most modern API rating of SN, but the high zinc/phos means that it's not up to modern ILSAC energy/resource conserving ratings of GF-3/4/5, etc. The same is also true of the even higher zinc/phos content Valvoline VR1 that I use in my old flat tappet SBC - also meets API SN protection requirements but not ILSAC GF-3+.

Personally, cat life is no concern to me. We have no sniffer here, and scan-only testing can be passed with or without cats (tuning required.) Mine only has four more e-tests to go before AV status, after which it will never be tested again.

EDIT: Sorry, just noticed you deleted that post. On my screen, everything is still visible.
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Old 09-30-2015, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
We have no sniffer here, and scan-only testing can be passed with or without cats (tuning required.)
I hear if you have a VW, then passing the test is a real breeze!
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Old 09-30-2015, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
I hear if you have a VW, then passing the test is a real breeze!
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
EDIT: Sorry, just noticed you deleted that post. On my screen, everything is still visible.
No problem. I answered my own question when I found out that all the Mobil 1 High Mileage products also had that same level of Phos/Zinc in them...hence the post deletion. The slightly more negative effects on the cat can't be too much of a concern if Mobil puts it in those oils as well. All the HM's except the 0w-40 (SN) are only rated at SL. The API SL spec appearing at the end of the 4th gen run allowed 1000 phos. The SJ limit 1997-2001 was also at 1000 ppm phos. so an original catalytic converter from that time frame should be fine with the 1000 ppm found in M1 0W-40 and the HM's. Zinc was not regulated but would typically run 1.1X Phosphorus.

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...pecs-guide.pdf

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Old 09-30-2015, 03:27 PM
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The oil I REALLY want to try is the new Pennzoil Platinum LX EURO 0W-30 stuff.

It has a 204 viscosity index, and uses their great GTL (gas to liquid) base stock.

The problem is that it is nearly impossible to find in this country currently, save for the SOPUS (Shell Oil Pennzoil U.S.) distibutors, and not even all of them can get it (some ONLY offer it in those 6 GALLON 'EcoPacks').
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
The oil I REALLY want to try is the new Pennzoil Platinum LX EURO 0W-30 stuff.

It has a 204 viscosity index, and uses their great GTL (gas to liquid) base stock.

The problem is that it is nearly impossible to find in this country currently, save for the SOPUS (Shell Oil Pennzoil U.S.) distibutors, and not even all of them can get it (some ONLY offer it in those 6 GALLON 'EcoPacks').
That could likely be something I try down the road if the cost and availability matches the current prices that higher rated synthetics run ($22-28/jug). I think the heavier 0w-30 oils are probably best for what I do. Just can't find readily find them at a great price.

Mobil is currently running a promotion through October for $7 to $15 rebates on their oil lines. I took advantage of the $12 discount on jugs of Mobil 1...bought 2 of the 0w-40. At a 45% pre-tax discount ($14.44/jug), that's a pretty good deal. Mobil has a list of retailers for the rebates though it is not complete. For one, Walmart is not on the list and I know others have successfully processed rebates through them.

https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mo...uper#retailers

There are now some VOA's on that 0w-30 Euro LX stuff. It doesn't have the add package I'd have expected. Certainly doesn't beat M1 0w-40 or even the Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w/40 A3/B4 in my mind.

Last edited by Firebrian; 12-24-2016 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 10-04-2015, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Firebrian
That could likely be something I try down the road if the cost and availability matches the current prices that higher rated synthetics run ($22-28/jug).
Yes, sadly, you will probably never see this oil (the Platinum Euro XL 0W-30) at Wal Mart (I doubt that SOPUS will even offer it in gallon, or 5 quart jugs), but maybe it could appear in quarts at some of the chain stores (Vato Zone, Advance, etc.) and hopefully be included in their sales deals with a premium filter.
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Old 10-05-2015, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Yes, sadly, you will probably never see this oil (the Platinum Euro XL 0W-30) at Wal Mart (I doubt that SOPUS will even offer it in gallon, or 5 quart jugs), but maybe it could appear in quarts at some of the chain stores (Vato Zone, Advance, etc.) and hopefully be included in their sales deals with a premium filter.
I think we'll see it when oil gets back up to $250 a barrel. I recall that the gas to liquids thing came in vogue as a way to profit off of cheap natural gas in the wake of high oil prices.

In the current market, the "pure oil" angle is only way this, more expensive, stuff can sell. The minute crude shoots back up, I would expect this stuff to become the "everyman's" motor oil.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
I think we'll see it when oil gets back up to $250 a barrel. I recall that the gas to liquids thing came in vogue as a way to profit off of cheap natural gas in the wake of high oil prices.

In the current market, the "pure oil" angle is only way this, more expensive, stuff can sell. The minute crude shoots back up, I would expect this stuff to become the "everyman's" motor oil.
True, but NOT this one particular Pennzoil weight/type, since there are still not a majority of cars in this country (and NO Nippon/Korean marques), which actually spec it.

Now ALL of the other, readily available weight SOPUS GTL synthetic oils WILL become VERY popular once crude skyrockets back up off of the charts.
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Old 10-05-2015, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
True, but NOT this one particular Pennzoil weight/type, since there are still not a majority of cars in this country (and NO Nippon/Korean marques), which actually spec it.
Oh, they have a special Euro blend of the GTL oil? What is so special about it? Do they mix in tears of monarchs or holy water blessed by the Pope?

How do you make a perfectly pure oil more pure? It kind of reminds me of This is Spinal Tap and having a guitar amp that goes to 11:
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:45 PM
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Nope, just a healthy dose of Unicorn tears, mixed with essence of Griffin, to give it that wonderful high viscosity index, and relatively low NOACK number (for a 0W-30).
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Old 01-30-2022, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by checo16
I currently own two Camaros and have questions about each of their oil weight recommendations.
I own a completely stock '98 LS1 Camaro with 17k original miles, my dad is the first owner and bought the car new from the Chevrolet dealer in Mexico. The part of Mexico where the car has been its entire life is very hot most of the time, about 90+ year round.
The other Camaro which is currently my daily driver here in Southern California is a '97 LT1 Camaro that has 88k miles with a mild cam and some exhaust. The guy I bought it off from had just changed the oil and put Mobil 1, I don't know what weigh h bout in it though. You guys should already know how California's weather is.

My LS1 currently has 10w30 synthetic oil in it. And I'm trying to get it changed with some Castrol Edge or some Mobil 1. But I've been reading that Mobil's 5w30 and 10w30 is too thin for our engines. Some people say Mobil 0w-40 and Castrol Edge 0w-30 work best for our engines. Is this correct? Would these weights be good enough for 90*+ weather in Mexico?

Now for my '97 LT1 with a mild cam. I've been trying to get an oil change lately but after reading everyone's opinions on oil weight preference I'm confused. The car currently has Mobil 1, I'm not sure of the oil weight in it because I just bought it a little over a month ago. The oil pressure is 20psi at idle once the car is at running temp and around 40 when driving. I beat on the car once in a while if that matters on choosing an oil weight for it.

So what would be the best oil weight for a low mileage LS1 in 90*+ weather most of the time?
And what would be the best oil weight for a Mild Cammed LT1 here in Southern California?
Stay Away from Mobil 1!! Just because you can buy it anywhere doesnt make it a superior product.. Amsoil is the king of kings of oil! Not as easily to get but if when 300,000 miles later you will see it holds up alot better then mobil 1.. any oil will allow any car to last 200,000 miles but if you tear the motor down you will see what mobil 1 is not doing what it says it will do.. i have seen alot of motors tore down and you would be surprised what these oils fail in protecting the engine and i seen a amsoil oil engine tore down and i truly was surprised how good that oil is but to each their own and i will stick with Amsoil. They make a 5w50 that made my ls1 run and sound amazing. From day 1 on a 01 Camaro ss 5.7l .. i use their 4 stroke oil for my genarator and WOW!! I have 1700 hours 3550 watt.. dont believe what i say, try amsoil and you will see the add package is amazing..
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Old 01-30-2022, 08:22 PM
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This conversation was done over 6 years ago, so we'll lock out this thread.
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