Cammed LS1 - Oil preference?
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Joined: Oct 2016
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From: PDX-OR-USA
Zinc is most important in a flat tappet application, if your running rollers it makes way less difference.
The cam is the piece that surface hardens the most during break in.
After that is the tips of the valves and rockers. Old school cast iron rings also needed to surface harden but
these days that's not a issue..
Any quality oil will do the job especially if you don't let it go to crazy high miles..
The cam is the piece that surface hardens the most during break in.
After that is the tips of the valves and rockers. Old school cast iron rings also needed to surface harden but
these days that's not a issue..
Any quality oil will do the job especially if you don't let it go to crazy high miles..
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 663
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From: South Carolina
EPA has cracked down on high zinc % in motor oils. Like posted above modern engines don't require high zinc levels like yesteryear. Racing oils with a high zinc concentration can also clog cats when used in a street application. If you're looking for a good oil with a slightly higher zinc level try the Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40. Testing shows it's closer to a 0W-35 viscosity. It's stocked at Walmart at a good price too. I've used it for years in my cammed LQ9 with zero issues.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
^ Excellent recommendation above; M1 0W40 Euro. It does have a bit more zinc (ZDDP), plenty for any roller application IMO. I use this oil in every LS1/Gen III I've owned, cammed or not.
I use the much higher ZDDP content Valvoline VR1 in my old flat tappet SBC, but that's just not needed for an LS1 application IMO.
I use the much higher ZDDP content Valvoline VR1 in my old flat tappet SBC, but that's just not needed for an LS1 application IMO.
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Thibodaux LA
Hydrologic rollers aren't as picky about oil. If it's under 100k miles, factory weight oil is fine. The more important thing is regular oil and filter changes. 5-6k miles. Like stated above, Mobil one is a good brand. Iv also seen alot of people use rotella full synthetic in there ls1s and other gas motors and swear by it. Iv used it in my lt1 and ls1 with no issues. Do your own research and see what you feel it best for your situation.
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Ran an XER cam for 132,000+ miles with Mobil 1 5w-30 and later Mobil 1 5w-30 high mileage. No issues or problems. Changed oil as needed ~5,000 miles and used a high quality oil filter.
Best advice is check oil level regularly and top off oil if it gets low.
Best advice is check oil level regularly and top off oil if it gets low.
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From: Poway, Ca. where GOD and the sun always shines
Zinc is most important in a flat tappet application, if your running rollers it makes way less difference.
The cam is the piece that surface hardens the most during break in.
After that is the tips of the valves and rockers. Old school cast iron rings also needed to surface harden but
these days that's not a issue..
Any quality oil will do the job especially if you don't let it go to crazy high miles..
The cam is the piece that surface hardens the most during break in.
After that is the tips of the valves and rockers. Old school cast iron rings also needed to surface harden but
these days that's not a issue..
Any quality oil will do the job especially if you don't let it go to crazy high miles..