Body Experts Inside! Structural dimension reference points.
07-17-2006, 10:30 AM
#1
Body Experts Inside! Structural dimension reference points.Updated with PIC,s In the process of repairing a bit of front end damage to a 2000 Camaro.
Can the body repair experts tell me where the reference points for the front clip are at. Ie Lh RH fender front to rear. And side to side. "Looking for the points to measure at when on the rack"
Please don't tell me the front ones are at the hood stop brackets, they were damaged and removed. As it is the radiator support is out and the front side to side dimension appears to be a bit closed in.
Can the body repair experts tell me where the reference points for the front clip are at. Ie Lh RH fender front to rear. And side to side. "Looking for the points to measure at when on the rack"
Please don't tell me the front ones are at the hood stop brackets, they were damaged and removed. As it is the radiator support is out and the front side to side dimension appears to be a bit closed in.
Last edited by 618HAWK; 11-10-2006 at 01:54 PM.
07-17-2006, 01:46 PM
#3
Get back to me with some pics. Maybe I can help out but wanted to know how extensive it really was before I gave advise that didn't apply to your situation.
If you have pics please post. Very interested.
Have you had it on a frame machine to see where the rockers are in relation to each other yet?
If you have pics please post. Very interested.
Have you had it on a frame machine to see where the rockers are in relation to each other yet?
07-17-2006, 04:45 PM
#4
Well I went to a few body shops to see if I could look at there manuals, but no luck. Everything is automated once on the frame rack.
Here are a few pictures. I have currently cut out the damaged section of the rad.support, at the lh & rh fenders. But comparing to a donor support it appears that the lh inner fender is pushed in toward the center line. The dimension form the donor support to the current inner fenders is about 3/4 of a in short. "donor being wider".
Cut this off he donor car, so I could compare frame rails and make sure there was no damage there, they are both Identical.
As you can see I am in need of the font to rear and cross section dimensions. I think my problem lies in the lh fender well. As seen by the area common to the fuse block holder there is a buckle. Which tells me that there is a slight compressing there. Which would make sense for the 3/4 of a inch of difference.
But even with the support installed will not mean things are truly square, correct with out being able to have the diagonal dimensions.
Are the front referance points taken from the 1/4 holes in the front hood stop brackets. If so what is used for the rear referance point.???
Here are a few pictures. I have currently cut out the damaged section of the rad.support, at the lh & rh fenders. But comparing to a donor support it appears that the lh inner fender is pushed in toward the center line. The dimension form the donor support to the current inner fenders is about 3/4 of a in short. "donor being wider".
Cut this off he donor car, so I could compare frame rails and make sure there was no damage there, they are both Identical.
As you can see I am in need of the font to rear and cross section dimensions. I think my problem lies in the lh fender well. As seen by the area common to the fuse block holder there is a buckle. Which tells me that there is a slight compressing there. Which would make sense for the 3/4 of a inch of difference.
But even with the support installed will not mean things are truly square, correct with out being able to have the diagonal dimensions.
Are the front referance points taken from the 1/4 holes in the front hood stop brackets. If so what is used for the rear referance point.???
07-18-2006, 12:01 AM
#5
As my first thought, I would think about getting a spot-weld drill tool and drill out the first joint on the underside of the car. You are going to be stripping the interior anyways. It is before the shifter hole and after the beginning of the firewall.
If you seperated the car there and cut the A pillars you wouldn't have to worry about any of the heavy gauge sheet metal in the engine bay. Also, since that is a factory joint which you can follow from the bottom of the car to half way up the doors you have a better chance of getting it right. You know you would nail the side to side measurement as one piece fits inside of the other. If the car was slightly long or shorter you would be ok but yes you do need that reference point.
Personally, I wouldn't want to mess with any of the sheet metal in the engine bay. It is thicker than around the firewall.
If you seperated the car there and cut the A pillars you wouldn't have to worry about any of the heavy gauge sheet metal in the engine bay. Also, since that is a factory joint which you can follow from the bottom of the car to half way up the doors you have a better chance of getting it right. You know you would nail the side to side measurement as one piece fits inside of the other. If the car was slightly long or shorter you would be ok but yes you do need that reference point.
Personally, I wouldn't want to mess with any of the sheet metal in the engine bay. It is thicker than around the firewall.
07-18-2006, 05:09 PM
#6
Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
As my first thought, I would think about getting a spot-weld drill tool and drill out the first joint on the underside of the car. You are going to be stripping the interior anyways. It is before the shifter hole and after the beginning of the firewall.
If you seperated the car there and cut the A pillars you wouldn't have to worry about any of the heavy gauge sheet metal in the engine bay. Also, since that is a factory joint which you can follow from the bottom of the car to half way up the doors you have a better chance of getting it right. You know you would nail the side to side measurement as one piece fits inside of the other. If the car was slightly long or shorter you would be ok but yes you do need that reference point.
Personally, I wouldn't want to mess with any of the sheet metal in the engine bay. It is thicker than around the firewall.
If you seperated the car there and cut the A pillars you wouldn't have to worry about any of the heavy gauge sheet metal in the engine bay. Also, since that is a factory joint which you can follow from the bottom of the car to half way up the doors you have a better chance of getting it right. You know you would nail the side to side measurement as one piece fits inside of the other. If the car was slightly long or shorter you would be ok but yes you do need that reference point.
Personally, I wouldn't want to mess with any of the sheet metal in the engine bay. It is thicker than around the firewall.
I am not replacing that much. You can see by the pictures I am only replacing the radiator support.
As it stands now, it is in position but prior to welding I would like to confirm the correct dimensions. I have a slight alignment problem with the lh inner fender. Need a reference point for a vertical point.
07-18-2006, 11:28 PM
#7
Seems like a shop should be able to pull up a plot for you - maybe run the rack w/o the car on it just to get a print off for the reference points?
I know when I had my Formula checked out there were definitely reference points for guide holes on the plot.
I know when I had my Formula checked out there were definitely reference points for guide holes on the plot.
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07-19-2006, 10:42 AM
#9
I found a plot form a gm service manual, it is limited. But it did give good dimensions for the strut tower brace points. And they appear to be fine using a tape measure. With in a 1/8-3/16.
Here are some plots LH to RH, Front to Rear. Unable to locate one for (height/water line) reference.
I did hit a few shops but they were not to much help. Going to hit a few more now that I have a bit more info.
Here are some plots LH to RH, Front to Rear. Unable to locate one for (height/water line) reference.
I did hit a few shops but they were not to much help. Going to hit a few more now that I have a bit more info.
Last edited by 618HAWK; 07-19-2006 at 10:22 PM.
07-19-2006, 10:27 PM
#11
Originally Posted by HUGGER ORANGE SS
Good luck my friend..
So what are your total plans for this car???
Looks like your going to keep it. Was the Title Totaled? If you need an engine and trans you know who to call.. ;-)
Anywhoo I'll be calling you soon.
Clint
So what are your total plans for this car???
Looks like your going to keep it. Was the Title Totaled? If you need an engine and trans you know who to call.. ;-)
Anywhoo I'll be calling you soon.
Clint
Yes I will need a engine/trany but that is a ways down the road.
08-20-2006, 05:09 PM
#13
good luck. I got one but not like yours. ours swung over 7 inches to the left but were almost done as well 
If you buy a crash book they give you like 50 measurments under the hoods from certain bolt holes and such to make sure everythings perfect but theyre like 100 bucks for some of those books.
If you buy a crash book they give you like 50 measurments under the hoods from certain bolt holes and such to make sure everythings perfect but theyre like 100 bucks for some of those books.
08-20-2006, 09:02 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Tainted
good luck. I got one but not like yours. ours swung over 7 inches to the left but were almost done as well If you buy a crash book they give you like 50 measurments under the hoods from certain bolt holes and such to make sure everythings perfect but theyre like 100 bucks for some of those books.
If you buy a crash book they give you like 50 measurments under the hoods from certain bolt holes and such to make sure everythings perfect but theyre like 100 bucks for some of those books.ISBN # or a link ect.
11-10-2006, 01:48 PM
#18
Well Have come along way here are a few shots. Bay is all painted and put back together. Just waiting on a few part to finish the motor going to swap out he cam while it is out. And install a set of Hooker headers and true duals.
Few Bay shots:
Here is the new power plant, bought a wreked 2000 SS for the power plant and trans. Was a auto but no problem swapped every thing over for this car to be a auto.
Here is a shot of the wrecked donor:
Now a few shots of the donor motor after a bit of cleaning and detailing:
Yes I know the balancer looks like ****, it will be taken care of during the cam swap.
Few Bay shots:
Here is the new power plant, bought a wreked 2000 SS for the power plant and trans. Was a auto but no problem swapped every thing over for this car to be a auto.
Here is a shot of the wrecked donor:
Now a few shots of the donor motor after a bit of cleaning and detailing:
Yes I know the balancer looks like ****, it will be taken care of during the cam swap.
Last edited by 618HAWK; 11-10-2006 at 01:56 PM.