You guys use this?
08-19-2007, 09:06 AM
#3
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Ok. Does it seem to keep your coolant cooler? Days are getting pretty hot and being stuck in traffic gets me nervous as to think my car might over heat. Thanks for responding.
08-19-2007, 11:25 AM
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It does help a little, thats why mcamarols1 mentioned that he uses it. Otherwise he just blew about $8 for nothing.
I also use Water Wetter (Redline) like what mcamarols1 has used, and I use it in both of my cars.
Peace,
Craig.
I also use Water Wetter (Redline) like what mcamarols1 has used, and I use it in both of my cars.
Peace,
Craig.
08-22-2007, 11:20 PM
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well the guage on my car is never acurate,(well in any post 01 i think) but when i did my coolant flush, i used distilled water and dex-cool at a 60/40 mix with a bottle of the Redline Water-Wetter, i dont kno if it helped, but i see 100+ F* weather often, so i said f#ck it
08-23-2007, 02:02 AM
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yup i recently added that stuff well the only problem with the stuff i think it my car now takes longer to warm up to operating temps i use distilled water and green coolent i use a bit more water then coolent
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08-23-2007, 04:39 AM
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I use RL Water Wetter also - as a M.E. and quite familiar with Heat Transfer; I totally understand the claims of the products inventor - without going into great technical discussion:
First thing: "Water Wetter" is not designed to lower your car's bulk coolant temperature. So if you put it in your car hoping to see lower operational coolant temp's, then you're gonna probably be disappointed.
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. The bad thing about having hot spots in your cylinder head (i.e. combustion chamber) is that they can promote pre-ignition - definitely a bad thing. Any sharp edges in your combustion chamber (around valve seats for example) may tend to get very hot (even red hot) during operation. These areas of the combustion chamber can then form local hot spots in the cooling passages. So, even though your bulk coolant temperature is well below its boiling point (i.e. your gauge reads just fine), there may be localized boiling in some areas of the coolant system.
This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job.
An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in you cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. So a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from your engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages.
"Water Wetter" does not increase the boiling point of water. Standard automotive coolant does increase the boiling point of the mixture above that of 100% water. But remember that if your cooling system is operating properly, it should never get hot enough to boil (I mean BOIL, not just localized boiling). Raising the boiling point of the coolant in passenger cars is mostly a safety measure, so that if the cooling system is over-taxed (climbing a hill on a hot day with AC on), it will not boil over. On performance cars the primary duty of the cooling system is to keep the engine in its optimum temperature range. This is best accomplished with 100% water, because its high heat capacity makes it very efficient at transferring heat.
Performance cars often run relatively high cooling system pressures. This also raises the boiling point of the coolant. But the high system pressure is not used to avoid boiling so much as to allow the engine to operate at a higher temperature for reasons of efficiency. A higher cooling system bulk temperature also allows the use of a smaller radiator (there is a greater driving force to transfer heat from the coolant to the free stream air).
First thing: "Water Wetter" is not designed to lower your car's bulk coolant temperature. So if you put it in your car hoping to see lower operational coolant temp's, then you're gonna probably be disappointed.
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. The bad thing about having hot spots in your cylinder head (i.e. combustion chamber) is that they can promote pre-ignition - definitely a bad thing. Any sharp edges in your combustion chamber (around valve seats for example) may tend to get very hot (even red hot) during operation. These areas of the combustion chamber can then form local hot spots in the cooling passages. So, even though your bulk coolant temperature is well below its boiling point (i.e. your gauge reads just fine), there may be localized boiling in some areas of the coolant system.
This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job.
An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in you cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. So a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from your engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages.
"Water Wetter" does not increase the boiling point of water. Standard automotive coolant does increase the boiling point of the mixture above that of 100% water. But remember that if your cooling system is operating properly, it should never get hot enough to boil (I mean BOIL, not just localized boiling). Raising the boiling point of the coolant in passenger cars is mostly a safety measure, so that if the cooling system is over-taxed (climbing a hill on a hot day with AC on), it will not boil over. On performance cars the primary duty of the cooling system is to keep the engine in its optimum temperature range. This is best accomplished with 100% water, because its high heat capacity makes it very efficient at transferring heat.
Performance cars often run relatively high cooling system pressures. This also raises the boiling point of the coolant. But the high system pressure is not used to avoid boiling so much as to allow the engine to operate at a higher temperature for reasons of efficiency. A higher cooling system bulk temperature also allows the use of a smaller radiator (there is a greater driving force to transfer heat from the coolant to the free stream air).
