Oil pressure 25-30PSI
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Oil pressure 25-30PSI
Hello,
First off, no, it's not my car doing this. A buddy of mine just bought a 2001 NBM Z28 with 56K on it. The thermostat is stuck closed, and the car when warmed up and at idle runs about 25-30PSI worth of oil pressure. I know it's supposed to be up to at least 40PSI.
The question is, is the oil pressure gauge somewhat linked to the dummy water temp gauge, or is the first assignment for this car a new oil pump. Keep in mind, the car has about 20 miles on brand new Mobil 1 10W-30.
First off, no, it's not my car doing this. A buddy of mine just bought a 2001 NBM Z28 with 56K on it. The thermostat is stuck closed, and the car when warmed up and at idle runs about 25-30PSI worth of oil pressure. I know it's supposed to be up to at least 40PSI.
The question is, is the oil pressure gauge somewhat linked to the dummy water temp gauge, or is the first assignment for this car a new oil pump. Keep in mind, the car has about 20 miles on brand new Mobil 1 10W-30.
#3
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Don't think the OP/water gauges are linked, separate sensors. The dummy gauge will show if it's overheating though. First assignment is get the thermostat right if it's stuck. For a second there thought you were talking about MY car.
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Haha, no. It seems that when the car gets overly hot, the oil pressure drops dramatically (because of the oil thinning out). I am going to recommend to him to keep using the 10W-30, getting a 160 thermostat, flush the cooling system and doing 1 bottle of water wetter, 1/2 gal of Dex, and the rest with distilled water.
After, I'm going to recommend that he go to my buddy Robert to get the cooling fans reset, along with some "other" things ;-)
After, I'm going to recommend that he go to my buddy Robert to get the cooling fans reset, along with some "other" things ;-)
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Originally Posted by Ragingwolf51
Haha, no. It seems that when the car gets overly hot, the oil pressure drops dramatically (because of the oil thinning out). I am going to recommend to him to keep using the 10W-30, getting a 160 thermostat, flush the cooling system and doing 1 bottle of water wetter, 1/2 gal of Dex, and the rest with distilled water.
After, I'm going to recommend that he go to my buddy Robert to get the cooling fans reset, along with some "other" things ;-)
After, I'm going to recommend that he go to my buddy Robert to get the cooling fans reset, along with some "other" things ;-)
If your cooling system is working, it'll keep the engine cool in any HOT Florida weather, mine does and I have almost 90 more cubic inches than stock.
.
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Do you think that if he keeps running the engine this hot, that eventually he is going to need a head gasket? I figure that with all of this excessive temperature that the block is going to expand.
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First off, how hot is it running? Secondly, once the engine is warm, the oil pressure is going to drop off a little. According to a Haynes manual I have, the oil pressure is fine at about 25-30 psi at idle. Mine runs that and there is NO mechanical issues at all. You should be fine on the oil pressure. Definately get the thermostat fixed though.
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my car runs bout 70psi oil pressure in the morning very close to 80 and when it is fully warmed up the lowest it will ever go is 38psi and my car has 80,000 miles and i use M1 5w30
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First replace the stuck thermostat "immediately". High collant temp = low oil pressure plus potentially major repairs. Don't put too much stock in the OEM oil pressure guage. 25-30 PSI at idle doesn't sound abnormally low on a warm engine. Hook-up a mechanical guage if you really want to see what the pressure is. OEM guages can vary a lot from car to car and really only tell you if you have oil pressure like an idiot light.
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I've got GC in mine (98k miles) and it idles warm at about 25-30psi. I don't think that's a problem with a stock LS1. You don't NEED 40psi at warm idle in a stock motor. Old wive's tale.