Knocking sound when turning/ ASR Turning off
#1
Knocking sound when turning/ ASR Turning off
Hi so here's my problem with my 1999 Z28:
#1) While turning I hear a terrible knocking noise. It seems louder and happens more while turning right. I can feel it and hear it. The faster I go, the faster the intervals between the clunks. I asked my shitty Hayward,Chevrolet Dealership, who by the way gave me my car back with no diff fluid, and they said that I needed a differential overhaul. After their shitty inspection job, I didn't trust them so I had a friend who went to Wyotech and worked on LS1's before check it out. Opened up the housing and said there were no teeth missing and no shavings in the fluid. He said replacing the rear end would be a waste of money and it's probobly something else. Please help me out.. I called the dealership but they wouldn't even give me an idea of what it could be unless I came in and paid them for it. Could it be the LSD Controller peice?
I hit a curb a few years ago pretty hard and had to get an allignment and all that but never did it knock or clunk, it drove completely perfect.
#2) For some reason while driving, (especially in heavy traffic clutch in clutch out situations) my ASR randomly turns off, sometimes coupled by a Check Engine light. The one that looks like a motor, not the SES. My idle goes haywire, sometimes going from 400ish and then stabilizing in the 12~1400 range. The only mods on this car are: Descreen GM MAF, HighFlow AirBox, and a K&N Filter.
#3) The Coolant Fluid light also comes on, usually from what I've noticed on a slight incline. I've check both coolant and reserve and they are at exactly where they should be.
There are a few other little things like my Short Shift (Hurst unfortunately) not being installed correctly and having play like it's made of metal and putty, but the other issues are what really concern me.
I know it's a lot to read and you guys have your own lives and cars so any help is much appreciated it. I've asked in other forums before and for some reason no one has A. Had the problem or B. Known how to fix it.
Thanks so much,
Jon
#1) While turning I hear a terrible knocking noise. It seems louder and happens more while turning right. I can feel it and hear it. The faster I go, the faster the intervals between the clunks. I asked my shitty Hayward,Chevrolet Dealership, who by the way gave me my car back with no diff fluid, and they said that I needed a differential overhaul. After their shitty inspection job, I didn't trust them so I had a friend who went to Wyotech and worked on LS1's before check it out. Opened up the housing and said there were no teeth missing and no shavings in the fluid. He said replacing the rear end would be a waste of money and it's probobly something else. Please help me out.. I called the dealership but they wouldn't even give me an idea of what it could be unless I came in and paid them for it. Could it be the LSD Controller peice?
I hit a curb a few years ago pretty hard and had to get an allignment and all that but never did it knock or clunk, it drove completely perfect.
#2) For some reason while driving, (especially in heavy traffic clutch in clutch out situations) my ASR randomly turns off, sometimes coupled by a Check Engine light. The one that looks like a motor, not the SES. My idle goes haywire, sometimes going from 400ish and then stabilizing in the 12~1400 range. The only mods on this car are: Descreen GM MAF, HighFlow AirBox, and a K&N Filter.
#3) The Coolant Fluid light also comes on, usually from what I've noticed on a slight incline. I've check both coolant and reserve and they are at exactly where they should be.
There are a few other little things like my Short Shift (Hurst unfortunately) not being installed correctly and having play like it's made of metal and putty, but the other issues are what really concern me.
I know it's a lot to read and you guys have your own lives and cars so any help is much appreciated it. I've asked in other forums before and for some reason no one has A. Had the problem or B. Known how to fix it.
Thanks so much,
Jon
Last edited by JCowden; 10-15-2007 at 04:50 PM. Reason: extra info
#4
I don't know how much this will help.
But I had a weird noise when turning right, not a clunking noise, but some type of a tapping noise and scraping. It was most noticeable when turning right. You could still notice it slightly when driving straight, but it was harder to heard over the exhaust. It wasn't hardly noticeable when turning left.
My culprit was.... Somehow, the E-brake ring (that has the little brake pads on it), that sits inside the "backside" (Closest to the differential) of the rotor, had came off of the push pins, and was just grinding/bouncing around all over the inside of the rotor.
I know the above is confusing... But its the best that I can explain.
Also, I jacked up the rear of my car, put it in 1st, and slowly let out the clutch until it was fully released.
The passenger side (right) tire spun just fine, at like 15 MPH, maybe more...
The driver side (left) tire, would just move rotationally, 3-4 inches every 5-6 seconds or so. I guess this resistance was enough to make the differential think I was turning, and the posi-unit wouldn't lock up, and was only spinning the passenger side wheel.
I also could by hand, spin the drivers side tire in reverse, while the passenger side spun in drive at 15 MPH.
Hope this helps, and if it doesn't, Its a bump TTT =]
But I had a weird noise when turning right, not a clunking noise, but some type of a tapping noise and scraping. It was most noticeable when turning right. You could still notice it slightly when driving straight, but it was harder to heard over the exhaust. It wasn't hardly noticeable when turning left.
My culprit was.... Somehow, the E-brake ring (that has the little brake pads on it), that sits inside the "backside" (Closest to the differential) of the rotor, had came off of the push pins, and was just grinding/bouncing around all over the inside of the rotor.
I know the above is confusing... But its the best that I can explain.
Also, I jacked up the rear of my car, put it in 1st, and slowly let out the clutch until it was fully released.
The passenger side (right) tire spun just fine, at like 15 MPH, maybe more...
The driver side (left) tire, would just move rotationally, 3-4 inches every 5-6 seconds or so. I guess this resistance was enough to make the differential think I was turning, and the posi-unit wouldn't lock up, and was only spinning the passenger side wheel.
I also could by hand, spin the drivers side tire in reverse, while the passenger side spun in drive at 15 MPH.
Hope this helps, and if it doesn't, Its a bump TTT =]
#5
Thanks a lot for the reply buddy. Like I said, any help is much appreciated. I will look into that and see if that could be a problem. A friend of mine mentioned something about a possibility of the tire spin being unequal. I'm such an idiot when it comes to cars and with my always shaky financial situation I think I should start learning more so I can help myself lol. Anyway thanks so much for the feedback. Anyone else have any ideas?
#6
I don't trust your friend did a thorough job. For one if the dealer had it apart they probably cleaned the shavings out with the fluid. Did your friend check anything other than gears? It could very well be a bad bearing. If it was a bad left side carrier bearing it would make more noise turning right because the ring gear would push toward the pinion.
I found a carrier bearing going out during a gear swap in a 2002 with 34,000 miles on it, made no noises but it would have soon.
Someone should take the rear completely apart and check the bearings.
The metal and putty description of the hurst reminds me of when I installed mine, they say to put their boot on, then put the factroy boot on top of that. It does not work.
I cut a hole in my factory boot so the hurst boot could come through it. Cut it so it fits tight on the hurst boot, no gaps.
I found a carrier bearing going out during a gear swap in a 2002 with 34,000 miles on it, made no noises but it would have soon.
Someone should take the rear completely apart and check the bearings.
The metal and putty description of the hurst reminds me of when I installed mine, they say to put their boot on, then put the factroy boot on top of that. It does not work.
I cut a hole in my factory boot so the hurst boot could come through it. Cut it so it fits tight on the hurst boot, no gaps.