Bassani Y_pipe From Hell!!!!
12-02-2003, 09:50 PM
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Bassani Y_pipe From Hell!!!! ok so heres the deal i get this bassani y-pipe and i'm all stoked about putting it in.....well let me tell you this peice of crap! everything that possible could have gone wrong did !!
for example i getr my tools back from a freind i let barrow and half of them are missing so i have to go out and buy all the missint stuff. should have taken that as a sign!!! next i'm unbolting everything and its going good till i get to one of the nuts on the manifold, its being a little pain and not wanting to come off so i spray some wd-40 then PB blast and let it chill for a few min, when i go to take it off it starts coming off and get tough a gain and then SNAP! it broke rigth off !! back to the hardware store i went to get drill bits to drill the stud out! finally get that taken care of and drop a bolt and nut in there that i got at home depo and i start bolting everything back up so it all bolt to the manifold no prob so i though, movin on down i bolt all the rest of teh crap on! YESS i'm done so i thought! ....i start it up and **** is ratteling everywhere WTF i go under adn tighten everything again stoped some of it, so i take it fro a drve around the block and where i break the bolt is now leaking, when i turn it makes this horrible CLUNKING sound. so i take it back home PISSED as ALL HELL clean up and say F*** the peice of SH**.
so tomarrow i'm taking to a freinds shop and tighten the crap out of the nut and bolt i droped in to see if i can stop the leak, then i'm goign to do everything i can to try and stop the tapping, ratteling and to find out what the hell the CLunking is ! WTF is all i got to say BASSANI Y-PIPE from hell.
sorry guys had to vent and family really doesnt care about any car problems, not to mention maybe you guys got some ideas about the various sounds, turning up the radio will only last so long!!!
for example i getr my tools back from a freind i let barrow and half of them are missing so i have to go out and buy all the missint stuff. should have taken that as a sign!!! next i'm unbolting everything and its going good till i get to one of the nuts on the manifold, its being a little pain and not wanting to come off so i spray some wd-40 then PB blast and let it chill for a few min, when i go to take it off it starts coming off and get tough a gain and then SNAP! it broke rigth off !! back to the hardware store i went to get drill bits to drill the stud out! finally get that taken care of and drop a bolt and nut in there that i got at home depo and i start bolting everything back up so it all bolt to the manifold no prob so i though, movin on down i bolt all the rest of teh crap on! YESS i'm done so i thought! ....i start it up and **** is ratteling everywhere WTF i go under adn tighten everything again stoped some of it, so i take it fro a drve around the block and where i break the bolt is now leaking, when i turn it makes this horrible CLUNKING sound. so i take it back home PISSED as ALL HELL clean up and say F*** the peice of SH**.
so tomarrow i'm taking to a freinds shop and tighten the crap out of the nut and bolt i droped in to see if i can stop the leak, then i'm goign to do everything i can to try and stop the tapping, ratteling and to find out what the hell the CLunking is ! WTF is all i got to say BASSANI Y-PIPE from hell.
sorry guys had to vent and family really doesnt care about any car problems, not to mention maybe you guys got some ideas about the various sounds, turning up the radio will only last so long!!!
12-02-2003, 11:49 PM
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Hmmm... I have the Bassani Y-pipe that goes with their headers (ORY) and it didn't give me any problems with banging or clunking. Actually, it hangs pretty low (about 1" lower than stock) which is probably the reason that it didn't bang on anything under the car ever.
One thing I did notice though, the band clamps they provide you with are ****. Not sure if you get these with the ORY for stock manifolds, but for the header Y-pipe you do. If so, toss them out and use some real clamps that crimp the fitting or else you'll have leaks there forever. I tried everything to make them seal, even using a breaker bar to tighten them so tight that I snapped one and it still leaked. Once I put some real clamps on there, all the leaks were gone.
As far as the studs breaking on you, that does suck, but it's a pretty common problem if you have any real milage on your car and it sees regular bad weather. They rust in place real quick with the heat and time/weather.
Also, about your leaks, did you use new gaskets on the manifold to Y-pipe flanges? If not, that is probably why it's leaking there.
One thing I did notice though, the band clamps they provide you with are ****. Not sure if you get these with the ORY for stock manifolds, but for the header Y-pipe you do. If so, toss them out and use some real clamps that crimp the fitting or else you'll have leaks there forever. I tried everything to make them seal, even using a breaker bar to tighten them so tight that I snapped one and it still leaked. Once I put some real clamps on there, all the leaks were gone.
As far as the studs breaking on you, that does suck, but it's a pretty common problem if you have any real milage on your car and it sees regular bad weather. They rust in place real quick with the heat and time/weather.
Also, about your leaks, did you use new gaskets on the manifold to Y-pipe flanges? If not, that is probably why it's leaking there.
12-03-2003, 09:51 AM
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You need to shim the pipe against every close piece of
body & hardware, to ensure maybe 3/4" of clearance,
jack the pipe to compress against the shims and then
tighten the bolts. Took me three sessions to get my
SLP Y-pipe hung quiet. Problem areas include the sheet
metal bosses on the floor pan, rear U-joint, gas tank
shield, Panhard mount, rear axle (for starters). A baby
sledgehammer (or big-*** ball-pein) may be an ally
as well as making you feel better.
Not just the
Y, but the I-pipe too, its fore-aft location depends on
the slip fit at the union and it has to be kept off all of
the tightly-packed stuff at the back of the car.
body & hardware, to ensure maybe 3/4" of clearance,
jack the pipe to compress against the shims and then
tighten the bolts. Took me three sessions to get my
SLP Y-pipe hung quiet. Problem areas include the sheet
metal bosses on the floor pan, rear U-joint, gas tank
shield, Panhard mount, rear axle (for starters). A baby
sledgehammer (or big-*** ball-pein) may be an ally
as well as making you feel better.
Not just theY, but the I-pipe too, its fore-aft location depends on
the slip fit at the union and it has to be kept off all of
the tightly-packed stuff at the back of the car.
12-03-2003, 02:22 PM
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ok soo i took the beast to my freinds and lifted that peice, the clamp on the driver side was hitting the floorboard(the bolt part) that sheild that goes where the y-pipe is was on backwards. so that was 2 rattles
the i just went back to check the flange nuts to see if they were tight one or 2 were lose, then put the car back down and took a drive all rattles and leaks fixed !!! butt.......
its still clunked real bad so we put it back up and start cheacking everything and after about 2 hours we found that 2 motor mounts had gone bad one had no rubber in it!
talk about timing for **** to go wrong !
its at the dealer get new mounts now !
the i just went back to check the flange nuts to see if they were tight one or 2 were lose, then put the car back down and took a drive all rattles and leaks fixed !!! butt.......
its still clunked real bad so we put it back up and start cheacking everything and after about 2 hours we found that 2 motor mounts had gone bad one had no rubber in it!
talk about timing for **** to go wrong !
its at the dealer get new mounts now !
12-03-2003, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
You need to shim the pipe against every close piece of
body & hardware, to ensure maybe 3/4" of clearance,
jack the pipe to compress against the shims and then
tighten the bolts. Took me three sessions to get my
SLP Y-pipe hung quiet. Problem areas include the sheet
metal bosses on the floor pan, rear U-joint, gas tank
shield, Panhard mount, rear axle (for starters). A baby
sledgehammer (or big-*** ball-pein) may be an ally
as well as making you feel better. Not just the
Y, but the I-pipe too, its fore-aft location depends on
the slip fit at the union and it has to be kept off all of
the tightly-packed stuff at the back of the car.
body & hardware, to ensure maybe 3/4" of clearance,
jack the pipe to compress against the shims and then
tighten the bolts. Took me three sessions to get my
SLP Y-pipe hung quiet. Problem areas include the sheet
metal bosses on the floor pan, rear U-joint, gas tank
shield, Panhard mount, rear axle (for starters). A baby
sledgehammer (or big-*** ball-pein) may be an ally
as well as making you feel better.
Not just theY, but the I-pipe too, its fore-aft location depends on
the slip fit at the union and it has to be kept off all of
the tightly-packed stuff at the back of the car.
Generally, if you can bounce, hang on, beat, and shake your exhaust without it hitting anything, it'll be ok. That's my rule of thumb.
