donman

I agree with the ratcheting wrenches. I bought a 10mm for my header job and then went out and bought a whole set. Those things are awesome.

Don

99redrockett/a

Cool thanks. I already have a set of them, maybe i just gotta move some of the coil packs out of the way.

donman

It will be a lot easier with the coils out of the way. I definately would recommend it!

You can just remove the bracket that all the coils mount to. Drivers side is a small pain with the bolt on the back of the head if I remember right.

Don

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

For sure easier.
Don't worry about putting the one nut/bolt back in on one of the sides in the rear.

99redrockett/a

Cool i tried again today and they are way stuck. Im just paranoid about breaking them. I didnt try for long though will be trying again tomorrow

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

You did spray them all down 24 hr in advance right with a penetrating oil. WD40 etc. Breakaway.

99redrockett/a

Ya, i got them to go today so far so good!

brenden1661

awesome write up!! great job!

jasongantt

sweet write up...you deffinatly got some grey matter up there...

88vert

iTrader: (5)

Great write up. I followed it and the job went smooth as silk.
I did the whole thing in about twelve hours, and thats with an ls6 intake swap.
I probibly could have done it quicker but the drinking started early.
Lesson learned, dont drink till done. But when you bust a knuckle, the drinking starts, after a few of those the knuckle busting doesnt hurt as much. lol
I also had the help of my brother, he took a side and i took a side.then helped each other when needed.

Well just wanted to say thank you for the write up.
Im gonna double check everything tommorow ans fire her up.

ceta4zng

Thanks for the write up and additional tips and hints - I am installing kooks LTs and catted y. The job is a bear so I am addressing all the things I have access to while in there (car has 24k).

Two questions as I start reassembly. Should I replace plugs and wires before the headers or is access good enough to do it after?

I am planning on a frost tune. Should I drive it after the install is complete and let the codes set and then send out the computer or should I send it out now while the car is in the air and have everything tuned and ready as soon as the car hits the ground?

Thanks again to all - this thread is great

donman

I did my plugs after the headers and before you put the coil packs back on. It is so much easier with the coil packs off.

I drove my around before I sent it out to Frost, but it did not run as good. I would just send it to him, he is pretty quick at turning them around and your car will run great when you get it back. If you have an automatic, you will freaking love the shift firmness..

Man I wish it wasn't winter right now, this is making me want to drive it :-)

I guess my only question is did you do the motor mounts too? My car had about 30,000 miles I think on it when I did my headers and one of the mounts was starting to tear..

Good Luck!!

Don

ceta4zng

Yes - I am doing motor mounts - I figure since I have it apart I am doing plugs, wires, o2s, gaskets. Everything I can get to. The process has gone well (I just jinxed it) but it will take a few more weeks since I'm only working on the weekend.

The headers are back ordered anyway - I think I will get the tune while the car is on the lift so I get the full effect of the mods from the first time I drive it.

PS - the car is M6

idlerelaxation

just did headers/motor mounts, definitely pull out entire pedestals with clamshell, much easier, maybe an hour per side for motor mounts and headers

Blk2kSS

iTrader: (6)

nicely done

ceta4zng

Doing this install currently. Since I was working alone and didn't want to wait for help - I made my own header studs to hang the gasket and header so I could get the real bolts started. I bought 2 m8x1.25 for about $2. I used my Dremel to cut off the head and cut a slit in the top to get a flat head screwdriver in (which I didn't need anyway). I threaded two into the header bolt holes, hung the gasket and fed the header through. I came to the top of the car and slipped the header over the studs and started the bolts in the four other holes. Then I backed out the studs and put the bolts in. On the passenger side I put the studs in the first two bolt holes only because I wanted to make it as easy as possible to get them out. Spreading them out a little further probably would have made the other bolts easier to start but it was still cake.

Huntr1117

iTrader: (18)

Subscribed. Doing a header install on my brothers 99 tomorrow.

dudesqueak

How did you wire your cutout? What did you tap into that was 12v and where did you mount your switch. Mine is mounted above the 12v DC power output that is below the passenger cupholder. I don't want to use those wires because they are not switched (do not shut off when key is off). I tapped into a blue wire that has another wire tapped into it, but that ended up just turning my BRAKE light on and off (I guess that was for the parking brake). What wires are there that work with the ignition and are under the center console? Anyone?

cyberkill

I'm the laziest person in the world! I took all the pictures for an E-Cutout wiring write up, but never posted it yet. Now it's been however many years I'm starting to forget!

I believe I spliced the red wire from behind the ASR switch, and then ground wire spliced behind the cig lighter.

If I remember whatever I used to host this writeup's pictures, I'll post a couple of those.

cyberkill

Here we go:

That white plug I'm holding in the first picture plugs into the back of the cig lighter.





And I drilled a hole in the ash tray (gotta be careful with that because it's brittle) and mounted it in there. It's perfect and discreet, I love it!...up until my QTP Oval Cutout motor died