f-body 4 life

iTrader: (1)

Will this kit work to install the crank pulley? I checked and it does have the right size for my crank, just trying to see if anyone else has used it before.

Thanks

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I have made my own in the past. I got the correct spec "threaded rod" cut down to size like 5-6" if I recall, maybe more. Some grade 8 hardware, washers and nuts and basically bottomed out the rod to catch all the threads.

I got the pulley and crank lubed with a little oil. Using a few large washers and a appropriate sized socket. Using the washers and nut I basically drew the pulley on safely. Use 2 nuts at the end of the rod interlocked to allow easy install and removal of rod when done. When the nuts get closer to the inside of the hub/balancer, you can stack washers or add another socket for shims.

So to give a pic. From LEFT to Right.

<Crank> <Pulley> <Socket> <Washers> <Nut>
<----------------Rod--------------------------<Nut><Nut>--->

f-body 4 life

iTrader: (1)

Yaa thats wat i was gonna do if this kit didnt work..my buddy has this and was just wondering if anyone have ever used it on our cars. Thanks for the quick reply though

David Q

I put my balancer in the oven at 350 degrees for about 15 minutes it really didnt smoke or do anything inside the house (or my wife would have killed me LOL) and it slid right on like butter. I was able to use the original bolt to pull the balancer down tight. I then replaced it with my new balancer bolt and tightened the hell out of it.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

This kit works just fine, but it's really hard to come by. Some say, you have to get special clearance to NASA headquarters to get one...

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

Damian's tool might work if all conditions are ideal.

Or it might chew up your crankshaft.

Use a proper tool. There's guy on here that makes a REALLY nice one for a reasonable price, but I forget his name. Search it.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I have seen more cars rip out threads in the crank or break off bolts trying that gimmick. Having most if not all threads engaged is the ideal situation. But again I have heard people boiling their pulleys to get them to slip on so there are different ways to skin the cat.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Damn, I guess the 300-400 cars I've seated pulleys on with the stock bolt were all luck. I should play the lottery.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

And I respectfully disagree with Damian.. Don't use the crank bolt. Unless you bake the pulley first to get it to slide on.. I have pulled a thread out of my crank using the crank bolt to install the pulley.. *hides* Bake the pulley at 200* and it should slide on pretty far. Each "thread" has a stress tolerance and if you are "stressing" only a couple threads, they will be more prone to fail. The full depth of the crank bolt is meant to withstand that full torque load for the crank pulley.

Althoguh I HAVE successfully sunk a couple pullies on all the way using the old crank bolt, but I wasn't very happy/confident doing it. Made me nervous. You can use the old bolt to torque the pulley to the initial 75 ft/lbs or whatever it is, THEN use the new bolt to tighten the living hell out of it. I actually have a HUGE 600 ft/lb tq wrench. F-kr is MASSIVE! 3/4 drive or so.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Like said, I have seen and I have experienced it helping other who fucked it up and helped them work around fixing it. You may have a larger exposure due to your avalible examples but again.

NOT engaging MOST/ALL the threads in the crank snout will increase the chance of damaging them. My exp is based on LT1 stuff as well as LS1.

But again, the installer has to make the choice based what they feel is right. IF I was doing a cam install on a friend's car the last thing I need to be doing is trying to fix something that took about a total of 3-5$ with of hardware and some time to gather and assemble.

I do agree with 98% of your posts but this one I do respectfully disagree with.