Replaced O2s, P1133 back again.
#1
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Replaced O2s, P1133 back again.
So this all started back in January when I changed my ory and catback out for TSP TDs.
We cut off my rear o2 sensors so a code followed, checked it and it was the rear o2s. Let two months go by maybe 100 miles on the car (Winter) had them checked again, now the front o2 sensors were being thrown.
I replaced both front o2 sensors with Denso sensors 3 weeks ago. And I just threw P1133 yesterday.
The car is in great shape, if this is a vacuum or an exhaust leak where are some good places to look if you had to put serious money on where it could be?
Thanks, I am all out of options.
Also I did have the PCM retuned by someone and since then the car has gave me more problems. Could a tune be throwing my o2 codes?
We cut off my rear o2 sensors so a code followed, checked it and it was the rear o2s. Let two months go by maybe 100 miles on the car (Winter) had them checked again, now the front o2 sensors were being thrown.
I replaced both front o2 sensors with Denso sensors 3 weeks ago. And I just threw P1133 yesterday.
The car is in great shape, if this is a vacuum or an exhaust leak where are some good places to look if you had to put serious money on where it could be?
Thanks, I am all out of options.
Also I did have the PCM retuned by someone and since then the car has gave me more problems. Could a tune be throwing my o2 codes?
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I think your only option is to keep more heat in the
tubes. Wrap, coat, stand off the sensor thermally
from the wall, etc.
I used brand new Denso sensors when I put long
tubes on and they didn't help the heater codes.
Just not enough power to overcome the heat loss.
You want to be part of a science experiment? I
had come up with a thingy, before I went back to
shorties, to keep the sensor hotter. About 10 bucks
a side, at Home Depot. One piece 4" dryer vent,
two 4" hose clamps per, a few minutes with the
tin snips (or household scissors). Situate the sensor
hole as close to the center of the length as you
can, and make the length as much as the straight
collector extent allows.
Here are pics of it. I had the other end the same
but had a need for a bit of aluminum sheet, so I
stole it from the prototype (which I had no need
for anymore).
If you have a scan tool I'd be interested to see
idle O2 sensor waveforms, steady state warmed up,
before & after. If you make and sell a product, send
me a dollar.
tubes. Wrap, coat, stand off the sensor thermally
from the wall, etc.
I used brand new Denso sensors when I put long
tubes on and they didn't help the heater codes.
Just not enough power to overcome the heat loss.
You want to be part of a science experiment? I
had come up with a thingy, before I went back to
shorties, to keep the sensor hotter. About 10 bucks
a side, at Home Depot. One piece 4" dryer vent,
two 4" hose clamps per, a few minutes with the
tin snips (or household scissors). Situate the sensor
hole as close to the center of the length as you
can, and make the length as much as the straight
collector extent allows.
Here are pics of it. I had the other end the same
but had a need for a bit of aluminum sheet, so I
stole it from the prototype (which I had no need
for anymore).
If you have a scan tool I'd be interested to see
idle O2 sensor waveforms, steady state warmed up,
before & after. If you make and sell a product, send
me a dollar.
#3
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I think your only option is to keep more heat in the
tubes. Wrap, coat, stand off the sensor thermally
from the wall, etc.
I used brand new Denso sensors when I put long
tubes on and they didn't help the heater codes.
Just not enough power to overcome the heat loss.
You want to be part of a science experiment? I
had come up with a thingy, before I went back to
shorties, to keep the sensor hotter. About 10 bucks
a side, at Home Depot. One piece 4" dryer vent,
two 4" hose clamps per, a few minutes with the
tin snips (or household scissors). Situate the sensor
hole as close to the center of the length as you
can, and make the length as much as the straight
collector extent allows.
Here are pics of it. I had the other end the same
but had a need for a bit of aluminum sheet, so I
stole it from the prototype (which I had no need
for anymore).
If you have a scan tool I'd be interested to see
idle O2 sensor waveforms, steady state warmed up,
before & after. If you make and sell a product, send
me a dollar.
tubes. Wrap, coat, stand off the sensor thermally
from the wall, etc.
I used brand new Denso sensors when I put long
tubes on and they didn't help the heater codes.
Just not enough power to overcome the heat loss.
You want to be part of a science experiment? I
had come up with a thingy, before I went back to
shorties, to keep the sensor hotter. About 10 bucks
a side, at Home Depot. One piece 4" dryer vent,
two 4" hose clamps per, a few minutes with the
tin snips (or household scissors). Situate the sensor
hole as close to the center of the length as you
can, and make the length as much as the straight
collector extent allows.
Here are pics of it. I had the other end the same
but had a need for a bit of aluminum sheet, so I
stole it from the prototype (which I had no need
for anymore).
If you have a scan tool I'd be interested to see
idle O2 sensor waveforms, steady state warmed up,
before & after. If you make and sell a product, send
me a dollar.
I heard that we could also tune out these p1133/p1153 codes because these are mainly related to the relocation of the o2 sensor on the lt header from being stock and like you said, not being warm enough.
Since before when I just had my ory and catback I didn't have a problem, Could it be running cooler now with the true duals being dumped before the axle?
What makes me wonder is I have had the lt headers on since 08 and never had a problem.
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But others told me before you could not tune out the front o2s.
If I have the fronts turned off, the car wont be running rich anymore or open loop? Will there be any drawbacks?
#6
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you're not tuning out the front o2's rather than making them more tolerant. the sensors have a heat range set in the pcm they are designed to work at and deliver accepatble values since the o2's are now forced to run colder you simply have to go into the pcm make a few minor adjustments and turn off the codes. the pcm still uses the from o2's but the parameters are a little more laxed.
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you're not tuning out the front o2's rather than making them more tolerant. the sensors have a heat range set in the pcm they are designed to work at and deliver accepatble values since the o2's are now forced to run colder you simply have to go into the pcm make a few minor adjustments and turn off the codes. the pcm still uses the from o2's but the parameters are a little more laxed.
I was getting a lil confused. Thanks for clearing that up!
So just because the 02s are running cooler, in which a code is then thrown, just from that is enough to tell my PCM to start dumping more fuel in which will cause my car to run rich?
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If I have them changed to no report, no code being thrown. Will my car still run differently, being rich? Or in this case is there something else causing it to run rich?
See before I changed the exhaust to true duals, I never had a single problem. I do not think there is anything wrong with the car to cause it to run rich on its own, but at this point anything could happen. Car is garaged, lightly driven, 76k.
Is the code being thrown causing my car to run differently?
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Heater codes are telling you the performance of the
sensor is marginal under difficult conditions. It's not
far from there to mis-trimming in closed loop and
poor idle etc.
The construction of the headers, and things like the
gas flow / backpressure, will affect the heat at the
sensor. Coated vs not, mild steel vs stainless, these
affect the heat throw (loss).
sensor is marginal under difficult conditions. It's not
far from there to mis-trimming in closed loop and
poor idle etc.
The construction of the headers, and things like the
gas flow / backpressure, will affect the heat at the
sensor. Coated vs not, mild steel vs stainless, these
affect the heat throw (loss).
#11
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Heater codes are telling you the performance of the
sensor is marginal under difficult conditions. It's not
far from there to mis-trimming in closed loop and
poor idle etc.
The construction of the headers, and things like the
gas flow / backpressure, will affect the heat at the
sensor. Coated vs not, mild steel vs stainless, these
affect the heat throw (loss).
sensor is marginal under difficult conditions. It's not
far from there to mis-trimming in closed loop and
poor idle etc.
The construction of the headers, and things like the
gas flow / backpressure, will affect the heat at the
sensor. Coated vs not, mild steel vs stainless, these
affect the heat throw (loss).