Hi everyone, I just got done installing a new harmonic balancer on my 2000 ls1. I can't help but think it was too easy, as from what I've read you need like 200+ ft-lbs to get the balancer on. I was ready for this install to be a bitch and a half, but the balancer gave me no problems at all. I was able to get the balancer started by putting it on the crank as evenly as I could by hand, then tapping around the edge of it with a hammer (also as evenly as I could) until I could get the old balancer bolt started in the crank threads. I read that it wasn't smart to use the bolt to torque the 240ft-lbs or whatever it needs, but I wanted to make sure the balancer was evenly seated on the crank. I started torquing the the balancer down with the old bolt, planning to stop whenever it started getting difficult to turn, but it never gave any real resistance. I was able to get the balancer on all the way until it lined up with my other accessory drive components with barely any effort put into the turns of my torque wrench (was pretty easy even with 1 hand). It finally stopped turning after the balancer was lined up. So I figured I just got lucky, tightened it to 37 ft-lbs, then gave it the 140(ish) degrees it needs after the torque spec and put my belt on. The belt looks lined up just fine to me, and I can post pics if anyone asks, but was my install too easy? I don't want this done wrong at all, I'd just like to make sure before I try to start the car.
Thanks in advance to any advice!
is this new harmonic balancer a factory replacement? aftermarket? personally i think that was way to easy ive put many on and when installing them it was hard enough to tap them on far enough with a hammer. i had to buy a extra long bolt to pull the balancer on far enough just to use the factory one. mine took the hulk to get it aligned with other pullies and it was moving the car it was soo stiff. these cars throw these alot so make sure its on tight
__________________ 1999 Z28 A4 OLD BUILD
3.73ís pacesetter LTís, ORY, FTP 85mm lid, ASP UD pulley, 90mm/90mm,85mm SLP MAF, 3200 stall, TCI flexplate, poly MM/TM, no EGR/AIR
12.68 @ 109.8 1.89 60'
It seemed pretty tight on there when I was doing the 140 degree turn, I had to do that part with a hammer and socket wrench and it was giving me a good bit of resistance (enough to turn the crank slightly). I also put a good bit of red loctite on the threads of the new bolt before torquing it, so I'm hoping I did this right. If it helps anything I did take some fine grit sandpaper to the inside of the balancer seat in hopes that it would go on a bit easier.
Haha I would imagine, I actually sold my c5 to build this car. I'd have to have a lift if I was going to work with a vette (without going insane) all I have is jackstands and my floor jack to work with.
It might not have been "correct", but most of the stuff I do has to be improvised, and would probably be considered incorrect. If you knew what I've had to do to this car and how limited I am, you'd probably wonder how the hell I even got this far. Any problems you could see arising from the way I did this? I know it was wrong but I seriously have no choice but to do it the wrong way.
The problem is when you post your way of doing it, someone else might try and do i that way too and end up with a huge and costly to repair problem on their hands. That person may end up screwing up the threads in their crank or a crank bolt frozen in the end of the crank that won't turn either way. Or breaking the bolt off trying to remove it. Every one of those senarios have been posted here in the past by not following the correct procedure.
__________________ 2000 Arctic White SS, A4 - 12.791/106.14, 1.837/60' 1999 Hugger Orange SS, A4 - 12.079/112.85, 1.681/60' 1972 Camaro SS 1971 Camaro SS 2004 Silverado ECSB
I kinda have to post how I did it, otherwise people won't know about what I did. I can't just say "I put my balancer on, did I do it right?" I tried to provide as much info as possible so people don't have to ask questions. Also, I never advised anyone to do what I did. I just honestly had no choice but to do it that way, and knowing that it was the wrong way, I tried to get it as even as possible. I know how much a small difference can make on this, which is why I'm posting here now. I really don't want my car to go to **** after all of the extremely difficult things I've had to do just to be able to work on it.
Oh and manzo, I did get a new bolt for it. I just used the old one to try to get the balancer centered on the crank after I tapped it with a hammer since I knew doing it with a hammer wouldn't leave it centered. The new bolt was used after I got everything lined up, then torqued it down.
maybe just to be safe, install a new stock crank bolt and re-torque, as in theory the old bolt will already be stretched and not reuseable
Who cares about the $20 bolt when you stood a pretty good chance at compromising the threads on a $500+ crankshaft? The threads were meant to be torqed but not to carry the friction load of drawing on a balancer. Thats why ALL balancer installer tools use the crank snout threads in a static fashion and you are wrenching on disposeable threads with either a brass washer and tons of grease or a proper thrust bearing to carry the thrust load.
Mark, I don't think what I did would mess up those threads. I know it's not supposed to be torqued using the threads, but man you have no clue how easy it was to get that thing on. I'd estimate I used maybe 10 ft-lbs or around that. I honestly don't think steel would've given way to the small amount of pressure I had to use. I've broken aluminum threads before, which gives me a good idea of how much it would take to break steel threads (I would think anyways, correct me if I'm wrong).
Due to an oooops on my part I need to change the balancer on my LS2 out of GTO..... what IS the proper way of installing it ......please and thankyou..... also any tips on removing it... the enjyne is in a 77 Trans Am so access is fairly good...Part is on order and here in a week...