When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I've read a bunch of threads on here and I still don't know where to start- I'm as stumped as stumped can be
2002 LS1 camaro - this all happens randomly when it wants / where it wants regardless of the weather.
- I fire the camaro up and it idles for maybe 1 second and dies instantly. Sometimes it will do this once then fire up and run fine, other times I may experience this 2-10 times in a row- sometimes it runs after, othertimes everything is entirely dead and when I say entirely dead, I mean, windows, radio, locks, etc don't work.
Sometimes I turn the key after it dies and the dash doesnt even light up (it's like someone unhooked the battery)
When the car does die, it dies cleanly as if someone just shut the car off.
Now, I've also noticed that randomly my tach will jump around when driving (not always)...I've read this could be a crank or cam sensor, but would those two things cause me to loose power to everything else in the car??
In addition to that, I've had my steering wheel radio controls (aftermarket radio) randomly not work, or have half of the buttons work, then the next day everything will be fine...or event the buttons on the radio itself will stop responding (one time the volume got stuck in one spot)
I'm not sure if any of these are related, but I am stumped as to even begin starting to diagnose this...only codes I've thrown are AIR related.
I've cleaned up the 3 grounds under the hood, but they didn't look bad to begin with.
Anyone have any ideas? this happens so intermittenly that I can't even tell if what I do is helping or making it worse...
It sounds like the anti theft system. They are bad about having the reader go out. You can find a few threads on how to bypass the system, I know there are a large number of people doing it. Basically the key has a resistor in it (the little black box with a metal bar), When it is put in the ignition the car looks for a specific resistance. If it is off it thinks the car is being stolen and shuts itself off. You should have a steady Key emblem on the dash if it is what is causing the problem.
Ive thought about that theft system, but the "security" light never stays lit- it goes on when you start the car (like normal) and then goes off (like normal)
Would the theft system cause the speedometer to "skip / stick " as well?
I have Hptuners - I could try to bypass vats with that- but when I lose power to the car, not even my door locks work when I push the button? which makes me question if it is vats, because at the very least, I should be able to lock and unlock the doors?
Anyone think this is BCM related? How can I begin testing or diagnosing? I'm afraid to take the vehicle really anywhere given I can be stranded at any given time...
Take a look at this youtube video... I realize you are having additional symptoms. It almost sounds like you are intermittently loosing a main terminal from the battery. Have you checked to make sure everything is secure?
Thanks for the link- I did the soldering fix on my 96 when I was having radio issues- but I never had starting issues or speedometer issues with that car. Mind you that car had manual windows and doors locks to, so maybe it was a bit different.
Does anyone know if those joints can cause starting and immediately dieing as well?
I'll definetly pull the bcm this weekend and tighten up those joints though!
I'd say I would just solder and see what happens- but the problems are so damn intermittent I never know and I want to be sure I am fixing the issue so I dont get stranded when I cant afford to be stranded...
Thanks for the link- I did the soldering fix on my 96 when I was having radio issues- but I never had starting issues or speedometer issues with that car. Mind you that car had manual windows and doors locks to, so maybe it was a bit different.
Does anyone know if those joints can cause starting and immediately dieing as well?
I'll definetly pull the bcm this weekend and tighten up those joints though!
I'd say I would just solder and see what happens- but the problems are so damn intermittent I never know and I want to be sure I am fixing the issue so I dont get stranded when I cant afford to be stranded...
Before you do that, let me look through the 2000 service manuals schematics for our models to see if anything jumps out at me. It will be later tonight or in the morning.
I had issues with hard starts and it dying awhile back, one issue turned out to be the fuse block had loose contacts for the IGN relay. I also had a loose terminal at the alternator and the PS pump additionally **** PS fluid all over it. The car did strange ****, lose the trip odometer readings, the gauges would sweep randomly and it would just die as if it had been turned off. Good luck to you in your search. These cars are almost as bad as C5s when it comes to electrical issues and sensitivity to grounding/power issues.
I had issues with hard starts and it dying awhile back, one issue turned out to be the fuse block had loose contacts for the IGN relay. I also had a loose terminal at the alternator and the PS pump additionally **** PS fluid all over it. The car did strange ****, lose the trip odometer readings, the gauges would sweep randomly and it would just die as if it had been turned off. Good luck to you in your search. These cars are almost as bad as C5s when it comes to electrical issues and sensitivity to grounding/power issues.
Thanks- I'll look around there to. I mean the one thing that throws me for a loop is when I have the issue and the car totally loses power nothing works, windows, radio, hell even my key fob...but when power does seem to magically reappear, all my radio settings etc are still present, so it's not like the battery is loosing a full connection with everything and resetting the systems... So I want to think that the ignition connnections and relays arent the cause...but I definetly wont rule it out as maybe I have multiple issues going on at once here...
My initial thought is the BCM may be going bad...I just dont know how to test the damn thing.
I'd love life if all I have to do is solder the T connection - it would make sense as to why certain parts of the radio intermittently stop working to... and makes sense with some of the symptoms...I just havent heard of the dead starts as a symptom
Hell- who am I kidding, I'd just love life if I could figure out and fix whatever the problem is
I agree and think you are probably on the right track, just wanted to throw it out there, that could be several issues. However in your case the BCM seems like a good place to start.
I agree and think you are probably on the right track, just wanted to throw it out there, that could be several issues. However in your case the BCM seems like a good place to start.
The only thing I am banking on is that everything happens simaltaneously (minus the speedometer skipping randomly) so I'm hoping the odds of a coincidence of it all happening at the same time is very very small!
It may be a little more difficult to troubleshoot without schematics in front of you. I picked up a GM three volume set for $75 on eBay.
With that said and based on your symtoms, it may be advisable to start by looking at the source of power.
The battery directly powers several items,
Starter solenoid
Generator
Engine Wiring Block 1 and Block 2, focus here first, see photo
Check the main (red) terminal first, make sure the top and side connections are clean and secure.
Next, check the two blocks, they have fuses and relays. Carefully pull the appropriate ones and check the pins, clean them with contact cleaner. Not alcohol. Purchase a spray that specifically states that it will not leave a residue.
Everything you have said tells me you MAY have an Engine Wiring Block type of problem.
CAUTION: do not pull any connectors or wires. Just pull the appropriate relays and fuses located in the two blocks.
Check the main (red) terminal first, make sure the top and side connections are clean and secure.
Next, check the two blocks, they have fuses and relays. Carefully pull the appropriate ones and check the pins, clean them with contact cleaner. Not alcohol. Purchase a spray that specifically states that it will not leave a residue.
Everything you have said tells me you MAY have an Engine Wiring Block type of problem.
CAUTION: do not pull any connectors or wires. Just pull the appropriate relays and fuses located in the two blocks.
So you want me to just pull and clean the relays and fuses? not touch wiring? Should I be using a multimeter to test for some sort of resistance etc?
So you want me to just pull and clean the relays and fuses? not touch wiring? Should I be using a multimeter to test for some sort of resistance etc?
Yes because intermittent is so difficult to Troubleshoot. If you begin pulling wires you may induce more issues.
Remember, if the car is running you will not find a problem. ;-)
I know- I almost wish it would go to a full no start mode so I can know for sure when I fixed the damn thing! And preferably that no start will be in the driveway when it's not blocking my other vehicle from exiting lol
I know- I almost wish it would go to a full no start mode so I can know for sure when I fixed the damn thing! And preferably that no start will be in the driveway when it's not blocking my other vehicle from exiting lol
Many moons ago, I had a Nissan Pulsar and it had an intermittent relay issue. It was a real pain to figure out. This was back around 1990 before Al Gore invented the Internet and forums like this obviously did not exist. Many trips to the library looking up car wiring diagrams back in those days.
Anyway, something else to try, when you pull a relay, check to see if it gives you the symtoms you observe when your car fails. If it does, attempt to swap it with a similar relay from the block or go to the junk yard and pull some spare relays.
Let me add now that I again had to "reset" the radio this morning. I fired the car up this morning and it almost died, caught itself and the rpms fluctuated a bit as I let it catch itself and finally idle. (I don't want to give it gas unless I have to so I can see what it is doing and hopefully gather more clues)
The start and dies are getting much more apparent as this seems to now be occuring everytime I get into the car. The radio is completely tripped as well and requires the reset button to be depressed to turn it on...
If it happens again when I leave work today I intend to see what other functions I have lost power to while the key remains in the run position and the car dies.
Is there anything else people on here want me to try and check? I want to take a look at the fuse panel this weekend (sorry I worked on the BCM last weekend and took a risky trip with it to syracuse)
alright- even more information from tonight...I noticed, if I turn the car on and it dies and I leave the key in the run position- I can roll the windows down, use the radio, use the locks etc...however, if I flip the key all the way backwards to accessory when this happens, everything goes dead and the radio trips and needs to be reset by a depressing the reset when you finally do restart the car...
10-21-2014, 12:26 PM
Starts then dies- where to start?? 
