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Harmonic balancer help!! URGENT

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Old 10-17-2015, 10:08 PM
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Default Harmonic balancer help!! URGENT

Just completed a lq4 swap into my 99 formula m6. having awful belt chirp, replaced all the pulleys on the car with the exception of the power steering pump. using an electronic stethoscope i was able to pin point the chirp coming from the entrance into the harmonic balancer as it comes off of the idler pulley. found some specs on the hb that it is supposed to be 2.4-4.4mm off the crank snout. pulled the pulley out to the 4.4mm then put the old bolt back in with some torque and started the car back up. no more chirp. so how do i torque down the new bolt but keep the hb at the 4.4mm so the chirp doesnt come back?? please help if you can, it would be greatly appreciated!!
Old 10-17-2015, 10:17 PM
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Remove HB, install 2mm shim, install pulley.
Old 10-17-2015, 10:23 PM
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can i do that or put a 4.4 mm shim on the front side of the crank snout inside the hb. and torque it down like that?? just so i wouldnt have to pull it off again
Old 10-17-2015, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Poppster
can i do that or put a 4.4 mm shim on the front side of the crank snout inside the hb. and torque it down like that?? just so i wouldnt have to pull it off again
I guess if you can get it in there. I would have thought you'd have no choose but to take the whole thing off. Whatever gets the thing in the right position and holds it there.
Old 10-17-2015, 11:18 PM
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need to remove it. Some LS engines have a spacer behind the balancer but I am not sure how thick they are. I have torn a bunch of LS motors down, but have not come across the shim so I am unsure what vehicles came with them.
Old 10-17-2015, 11:28 PM
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if i made my own shim are there any things i should worry about behind the hb?? like things that the shim could rub on?
Old 10-17-2015, 11:41 PM
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and would shimming outside of 2.4-4.4mm spec cause any issues if my numbers werent perfect?? have you heard anyone else have issues like this before??
Old 10-18-2015, 10:04 AM
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you do know that the harmonic balancer bolt is a one use bolt, don't you? get a new one.
Old 10-18-2015, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Poppster
and would shimming outside of 2.4-4.4mm spec cause any issues if my numbers werent perfect?? have you heard anyone else have issues like this before??
it shouldn't. You might need a slightly longer bolt to make sure you have full thread engagement. 4.4 mm is around 3/16". Roughly
Old 10-18-2015, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by farmington
you do know that the harmonic balancer bolt is a one use bolt, don't you? get a new one.
I have heard people say that, but what is that based on? Do the GM manuals say that?

Here is some interesting info on the design, purpose and identification of TTY bolts:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2005...head-bolt-use/

Torque-To-Yield
Torque-To-Yield (TTY) is a term that you should be familiar with because it describes a type of head bolt that is used on many late model engines. Unlike ordinary head bolts, TTY head bolts are designed to deform – but do it in a controlled way. Like a standard head bolt, a TTY bolt will stretch and spring back up to its yield point. But once the yield point is passed, the bolt becomes permanently stretched and does not return to its original length. Because of this, TTY bolts should not be reused.

Why intentionally stretch the head bolts? Engineers discovered they can get much more even clamping on the head gasket if all the bolts are evenly loaded. Since variations in friction between bolts always causes some uneven loading, stretching the bolts guarantees all the bolts will exert the same clamping force regardless of the torque reading on the wrench. The result is improved cylinder sealing, longer head gasket durability and less cylinder bore distortion (for reduced blowby and more power).

TTY head bolts are typically used on engines with aluminum cylinder heads (where there is a lot of thermal expansion) and with multi-layer steel (MLS) head gaskets. MLS head gaskets are very stiff gaskets with much less compressibility than standard soft-faced composition head gaskets. On the other hand, MLS head gaskets are almost bullet-proof and produce much less bore distortion than other types of head gaskets because they require less clamping force. But to seal properly, MLS head gaskets require very smooth (almost polished), flat surfaces on the head and block. This, in turn, requires very precise and even clamping loads by the head bolts. That’s why TTY head bolts are used in these engines.

How can you tell TTY head bolts from ordinary head bolts? TTY head bolts are typically longer and narrower than standard head bolts. Factory service manuals will tell you which applications use TTY bolts, and you can often tell from the head bolt tightening procedure if the bolts are TTY or standard. TTY bolts typically have an angle tightening specification rather than a specific torque value (which requires using an angle gauge when tightening the bolts).

The torque procedure for tightening a TTY head bolt involves tightening it until a certain torque reading is reached. Then the bolt is given an additional turn to a specified angle (say an additional 45 to 90 degrees) to load the bolt beyond its yield point for maximum clamping pressure.
I wonder if the only reason it is recommended to replace the crank bolt is because there is sealer on the end.

Last edited by speedtigger; 10-18-2015 at 11:06 AM.
Old 10-18-2015, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
I have heard people say that, but what is that based on? Do the GM manuals say that? Here is some interesting info on the design, purpose and identification of TTY bolts: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2005...head-bolt-use/ I wonder if the only reason it is recommended to replace the crank bolt is because there is sealer on the end.
Honestly I haven't seen any references in GM literature, but the number of horror stories I've read of people having to drill their crank nose out was enough for me to just replace the bolt. Call it cheap insurance.
Old 10-18-2015, 11:39 AM
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People are breaking them?
Old 10-18-2015, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
People are breaking them?
yes, there are reports of people reusing the stock bolt and it breaks off in the snout. I have not read any reports of new bolts breaking. Only the ones who reused the old ones.
Old 10-18-2015, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
yes, there are reports of people reusing the stock bolt and it breaks off in the snout. I have not read any reports of new bolts breaking. Only the ones who reused the old ones.
That would be enough to get me to buy a new bolt.
Old 10-18-2015, 03:55 PM
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yes, i have bought a new bolt. just used the old one while i was jumping in and out of the car adjusting the hb. so i didnt have to buy 5 or six new bolts just to try and adjust it to a space where it wouldnt chirp.

UPDATE: replaced the hb to see if that would help anything since i had already purchased it and the old one was looking a little iffy. put on a new belt and the chirp went away!!.....for about 80 miles...

so I guess im going to have to shim it now and pray that it works! where would i buy a longer bolt from so i can get alll the threads engaged??
Old 10-18-2015, 04:01 PM
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I had a chirp until I went to the Goodyear Gatorback belt. That is the only thing that worked. They are hard to find where I live, so I buy them online.
Old 10-18-2015, 05:04 PM
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I would check with ARP, McMaster Carr, industrial supply places.
Old 10-18-2015, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
I have heard people say that, but what is that based on? Do the GM manuals say that? Here is some interesting info on the design, purpose and identification of TTY bolts: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2005...head-bolt-use/ I wonder if the only reason it is recommended to replace the crank bolt is because there is sealer on the end.
I've yet to check my manual but every vendor (lingenfelter, summit, etc..) uses the same torque specs for it..

Install old bolt and torque to 240 ft lbs to seat the damper nice and flat

Install new bolt and torque to 37 lbs, then turn bolt an additional 140 degrees which I'm assuming makes it a TTY bolt at this point.
Old 10-18-2015, 09:07 PM
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Get the ARP bolt, it's re-usable and you'll sleep better at night.



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