Only runs on passenger side bank
12-26-2015, 05:58 PM
#1
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Only runs on passenger side bank I have a 1988 Mustang/LS1/T56...The engine is a 1998 LS1...Lingenfelter GT1 cam/springs/pushrods...Hooker swap Headers..LS6 intake...Otherwise, stock...Fresh rebuild(top/bottom end)...BP Automotive harness...VATS is turned off...The issue I'm having is, when I start the car it only runs on the passenger side bank...Drivers side headers are cold...All 8 spark plugs are firing...Appears all injectors are working...Passenger plugs are dry, black and sooty...Drivers side plugs are wet but appear they are not firing at all...Injectors are stock...Starts hard...Pops and backfires occasionally...The main grounds are running from the battery to the frame and from the frame to the engine...The ECU is grounded on the back of the drivers side head...Fuel pressure is in between 52-58psi...I'm getting a CKP(crank position sensor) learn code...I tried making it learn but had no luck...Does anyone have any ideas?...Confused because it appears I have spark and fuel but won't run correctly...I'll consider any ideas...Thanks in advance!
12-26-2015, 08:52 PM
#2
These things can be really frustrating. I would start by running the neg battery cable directly to the engine block rather than the frame. Then run another strap from the block to the frame, and one to the body (fender, firewall, etc, whichever is easiest). It does sound like a wiring issue to the left bank, like the coil pack is not getting power. If left bank plugs are wet, inj must be firing. Its likely assoc w crank sensor code. How did you confirm spark to the left side banks?
12-26-2015, 09:03 PM
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I'll give the ground cable idea a shot...I removed the plugs, touched them against the block, turned the engine over with my remote starter button...Looked like a good, strong spark...I checked ground and 12v power to the coils...Pink wires on all of the injectors have 12v...Hmmmmm
12-27-2015, 08:11 PM
#5
Are the coils wired and timed properly on that side? I remember a while back we had
something similar and seems like pass side main harness to coil pack harness was
not right maybe wrong side, or missed wired, can't remember now and I did not personally work on it.
Sorry not much help but maybe something to ponder
something similar and seems like pass side main harness to coil pack harness was
not right maybe wrong side, or missed wired, can't remember now and I did not personally work on it.
Sorry not much help but maybe something to ponder
12-28-2015, 04:18 PM
#6
I would not recommend running your ground wire the way SS69 described. Running your ground in series like that is only going to increase the resistance the negative current has to get to the battery. Running a wire from the neg terminal to each point (block, frame, and body) will give you a much stronger ground for all of your electronic components than forcing all of the current to travel from the body to the frame to the block to the battery.
Sounds like it's a timing issue to me. As long as you have fuel and air, spark, and compression it should fire no problem. You've got fuel and air and spark, and we can safely assume you have compression on at least one of the four cylinders on the drivers side, so at that point it looks like timing.
Sounds like it's a timing issue to me. As long as you have fuel and air, spark, and compression it should fire no problem. You've got fuel and air and spark, and we can safely assume you have compression on at least one of the four cylinders on the drivers side, so at that point it looks like timing.
12-28-2015, 05:07 PM
#7
My main concern was that he had the main ground wire to the frame, then to the block, and so on. I guess if you can find a ground cable that has 3-4 leads to run it that way, makes sense. I have never seen one. The factory runs it the way I described, with the main cable going to the block from the batt. Some cables have a small gauge wire pigtail, which I run to the fender near the battery. I then run a large braided ground strap from a separate lug on the block, to the frame. I never really thought of it from a resistance standpoint. I just assumed a good clean ground.. should be the same at any point. Would the grounds with higher resistance show lower voltage on the fluke meter?
Scott
Scott
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12-28-2015, 05:55 PM
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I'm kinda scared that it is a timing issue. The shop that rebuilt the bottom end specializes in LS engines. I figured he put it together correctly. I dunno. Checking the timing is next I guess. Any easy ways of checking the timing?
12-28-2015, 06:19 PM
#9
To be honest, the added resistance of doing it in series is probably minimal, however I'm always of the mind that every little bit helps. Not to mention that the less you have in series, the less opportunity there is for a ground/cable to corrode and leave you stranded somewhere.
As for finding a ground cable, you can easily make one with some proper terminals, 4+ ga copper wiring, and a crimper. Heck if you have the sidepost batteries that are on most GM vehicles there are companies that make adapaters that allow you to screw a ring terminal on it no problem.
As for finding a ground cable, you can easily make one with some proper terminals, 4+ ga copper wiring, and a crimper. Heck if you have the sidepost batteries that are on most GM vehicles there are companies that make adapaters that allow you to screw a ring terminal on it no problem.
12-31-2015, 12:14 AM
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Soooooo I just figured out my issue. Drivers side coil harness must have a short/broken wire. Swapped it out with another one and the car runs great. I had spark on all cylinders tho. That's what was puzzling. Thanks for all of the input. It was all greatly appreciated!!!
12-31-2015, 11:33 AM
#12
Originally Posted by ardavis78
Soooooo I just figured out my issue. Drivers side coil harness must have a short/broken wire. Swapped it out with another one and the car runs great. I had spark on all cylinders tho. That's what was puzzling. Thanks for all of the input. It was all greatly appreciated!!!
