joshp14

iTrader: (5)

OK I need some answers on this whole "long pulley bolt" dilemma.

I am doing my cam soon, and I bought a ASP pulley. I was told it's a good idea to use a long crank pulley bolt to pull the crank on a little bit before you pull it in the rest of the way with the old bolt. Is this right?

Do I only use this long bolt to install the pulley?
Once the pulley is seated on the crank, can I leave the long bolt in there? Or do I have to buy a new TTY bolt from GM?

As far as removal....do you need to use the longer bolt for the removal of the old pulley?

And one more final question...when I do this cam install, what bolts need loctite, and what strength loctite do I need?

Sorry about all the questions, I hope this clears things up for me.

Thanks a lot...

240M3SRT

Having just done mine last weekend, it a lot more clear to me now. The reason the short bolt gives you trouble is because the pulley hits the base of the head (closest to the threads), while the pulley still needs to come off further. You dont need a longer bolt if you have an object lying around about 2 inches long that will fit into the hole of the pulley. You can stick this in there against the front of the crank and put the puller tip on that. FWIW, if you can get the proper pitch longer bolt ahead of time by all means do so. I just had to improvise.

About the loctite, i used red on the crank bolt. I know people say it calls for blue but i swear to god ive never had one problem removing a bolt with red loctite when it came time. Now the head bolts may be a different story.

Also, you are supposed to use a new crank bolt as they are tq to yield. I forgot to pick one up so i reused the one i had. The "proper method" is tq to 240lbs then 140 degrees, then back out bolt and tq new bolt to 37lbs, or something like that........I hit it with an impact on high.

joshp14

iTrader: (5)

OK I'll have to grab a new TTY bolt from GM.

Do any of these bolts need loctite? If so, what strength?

Valve cover bolts, rocker arm bolts, oil pump, water pump, cam retainer plate, timing cover??

joshp14

iTrader: (5)

edit: doube post

Mark98SS

iTrader: (1)

I think the proper method is using the old bolt torque to 240ft/lbs, remove old bolt install new bolt to 37ft/lbs +140 degrees. Do not attempt to torque the old bolt to 240ft/lbs + 140 degrees as you will have "crank shaft issues" after the bolt breaks. BTW I did not use any Locktite on my crank bolt, now about 5000 miles.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

The rocker arm bolts and the cam retainer plate bolts need loctite (I used red). The oil pump and water pump both have washers (or spacers in the case of the oil pump, in which you put some blue rtv sealant to seal it) that seal them properly so there is no need to use loctite if you torque them to spec.

joshp14

iTrader: (5)

Hm..well I wonder if it's required or not...

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

if what's required?

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i was told to use some silicon sealer on the rocer bolts to prevent oil from leaking into the intake port

i will be getting an arp bolt for the crank, i have a brand new gm one i will sell u if you want

joshp14

iTrader: (5)

Heh...we posted at the exact same time...I was wondering if it was required for the crank bolt or not...but you answered my question as I was.

joshp14

iTrader: (5)

Thanks anyway, but by the time I pay for s/h, I can go grab one from a dealership.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

thats cool, our dealer here rapes you so hopefull you guys get better prices then we do lol

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

I think you are explaining how remove the pulley in your first paragraph, not install it. However, I agree with your method and it is what I used the first time. However, I think the best method is to used a solid piece of round bar stock that sits on the crank snout so you don't touch the threads at all. That is what I will do this next go around.

Loctite should not be necessary on the crank bolt if use the GM bolt. However, I don't really see a problem doing it. I would use blue personally.

I would not recommend putting the crank bolt on with an impact though.

SteelBallz

Why would you not use "red" since it is a higher strength for higher temperatures than "blue"?

240M3SRT

It isnt that hard to remove when it comes time, and it gives me a much better sense of security. At least thats why i use red. We dont even keep blue in the shop.

And as far as not using the impact. When we had 2 people cranking on the bolt i was actaully scared the bolt would snap. I know its probably just in my mind. However, i know how strong our impact is from using it all the time so even though its not recommended....i did it. Just a nice tipity-tap-taparoo.

joshp14

iTrader: (5)

The longer bolt or piece of stock will both work. The threads in the crankshaft can handle the load as long as you are using enough threads.

I went and bought a new GM crank pulley bolt today. Also, as for the installation of the new pulley....

-Do you guys throw it in the oven? Or does this not work?

-Is this the proper procedure for installing the new Pulley?...You use the long bolt to pull it on the first 1/4" or so, then put the old bolt back in and pull it in and torque to 250 ft/ibs...then pull the old bolt out, then put the new GM bolt in and torque to 37 ft/ibs +140* rotation.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

ive been told to bake it at 200 deg or so for 10 min to heat it up to expand the opening

Mark98SS

iTrader: (1)

I did not bake my pully, just stuck it on the end of the crank & carefully used a long bolt to draw it on a ways, then switched to the old crank bolt, completely seated the pully with that & torqued to 250ish. Removed old bolt & installed new torqued to 37 + 140 degrees. Let me tell you that 140 degrees requires a very long cheater bar.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i bet so, thats prob torquing that damn thing to 500 ft lbs

anyone know how to do the arp bolts?? i was reading that someone said to get arp and not the gm one because they can bust, this true?

joshp14

iTrader: (5)

Any bolt can bust with too much stretch. Why would GM make a bolt that would break? Afterall, they put that exact bolt on the car from the factory...