anyone clean thier MAF screen ?
08-21-2005, 05:32 PM
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Warrenville, IL.
Posts: 528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
anyone clean thier MAF screen ? Have my MAF off the car and noticed the screen is kinda dirty. What's a good way to clean this and what is ok to use on it ?
08-21-2005, 09:55 PM
#5
On The Tree
Join Date: May 2005
Location: arkansas
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
while ur at it clean your throttle body too. some times if u get a lotte gunk built up theres just a slight stick when u let off the throttle. or at tleast thats how mine was. cleaned it off adn all was well.
08-21-2005, 11:21 PM
#6
get rid of the screen and port the tb good (or have it ported) and you will no longer have to worry about either. which reminds is it just me or is porting addictive I ported my throttle body and maf ends and a few others and now am considered doing it for some spare money and possibly if I get around to it becoming a sponser.
Trending Topics
08-22-2005, 03:20 PM
#8
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Warrenville, IL.
Posts: 528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys.
throttle body is out getting ported by Ron (Cammin BeaSSt).
I thought I read somewhere it wasen't a good idea to descreen the MAF on the 00-02 cars ?
throttle body is out getting ported by Ron (Cammin BeaSSt).
I thought I read somewhere it wasen't a good idea to descreen the MAF on the 00-02 cars ?
08-22-2005, 05:35 PM
#10
12 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 684
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't descreen. (and didn't).
See all that crap on the screen? That's what the screen is stopping from coming into your engine.
It's not worth risking it for like 1/2 a horsepower.
You could also probably clean it with rubbing alcohol. While you're in there. Also be VERY careful, but you can clean the MAF sensor with alcohol or spray "electrical contact cleaner." Just don't use the cleaner with oil or another lubricant or more dirt will stick to where you just cleaned.
See all that crap on the screen? That's what the screen is stopping from coming into your engine.
It's not worth risking it for like 1/2 a horsepower.
You could also probably clean it with rubbing alcohol. While you're in there. Also be VERY careful, but you can clean the MAF sensor with alcohol or spray "electrical contact cleaner." Just don't use the cleaner with oil or another lubricant or more dirt will stick to where you just cleaned.
08-22-2005, 05:57 PM
#11
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fort Myers, FL.
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just cleaned mine MAF, because I was having the same problem. throwing engine codes and everything. cleaned it and the codes went away after I cleared them. I just cleaned my K&N and saw this thread. it helped out tremendously as I was about ready to put new o2's and plugs in my car to try to fix the problem.
08-22-2005, 06:52 PM
#13
On The Tree
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by black01_WS6
just cleaned mine MAF, because I was having the same problem. throwing engine codes and everything. cleaned it and the codes went away after I cleared them. I just cleaned my K&N and saw this thread. it helped out tremendously as I was about ready to put new o2's and plugs in my car to try to fix the problem.
08-22-2005, 07:51 PM
#15
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,605
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Oily residue coats the sense elements and changes
their airflow sensitivity. This drifts the indicated
airflow. The caked up stuff increases the thermal
impedance of the wire, requiring less heater power
to maintain temp, which reads like less airflow and
makes you run lean. If you must run an oily sock
for an air cleaner then you ought to clean the MAF
with every filter refresh, I think. Q-D contact cleaner
at Home Depot is one of your better bargains, nice
big can. Do not use a cleaner/lubricant type, the
kind that says "fast drying" and "dries clear" is the
stuff you want.
I run a descreened 85mm and life is good. But it's
not for everyone, and there's something to be said
for safe and stock. Especially if your airbox doesn't
seal right and you find a lot of chunks.
their airflow sensitivity. This drifts the indicated
airflow. The caked up stuff increases the thermal
impedance of the wire, requiring less heater power
to maintain temp, which reads like less airflow and
makes you run lean. If you must run an oily sock
for an air cleaner then you ought to clean the MAF
with every filter refresh, I think. Q-D contact cleaner
at Home Depot is one of your better bargains, nice
big can. Do not use a cleaner/lubricant type, the
kind that says "fast drying" and "dries clear" is the
stuff you want.
I run a descreened 85mm and life is good. But it's
not for everyone, and there's something to be said
for safe and stock. Especially if your airbox doesn't
seal right and you find a lot of chunks.
08-22-2005, 08:13 PM
#16
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Just This Side of Damnation
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I had a moth, grasshopper parts, and odd bits on my MAF when I first checked it. I don't think I'll get rid of it.
I ready in SuperChevy or something that you really can't clean those diodes and wire in the MAF without screwing it up. Dunno. Some folks here say they did it without an issues.
The biggest problem with the K&N's is a heavy hand with the reoiling spray. THATs what really screws things up. As I understand it the MAF wires are heated and bake the oil on, making it practically impossible to get it off without injury. Maybe that's what they were talking about.
I ready in SuperChevy or something that you really can't clean those diodes and wire in the MAF without screwing it up. Dunno. Some folks here say they did it without an issues.
The biggest problem with the K&N's is a heavy hand with the reoiling spray. THATs what really screws things up. As I understand it the MAF wires are heated and bake the oil on, making it practically impossible to get it off without injury. Maybe that's what they were talking about.
08-22-2005, 10:03 PM
#17
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
Oily residue coats the sense elements and changes
their airflow sensitivity. This drifts the indicated
airflow. The caked up stuff increases the thermal
impedance of the wire, requiring less heater power
to maintain temp, which reads like less airflow and
makes you run lean. If you must run an oily sock
for an air cleaner then you ought to clean the MAF
with every filter refresh, I think. Q-D contact cleaner
at Home Depot is one of your better bargains, nice
big can. Do not use a cleaner/lubricant type, the
kind that says "fast drying" and "dries clear" is the
stuff you want.
I run a descreened 85mm and life is good. But it's
not for everyone, and there's something to be said
for safe and stock. Especially if your airbox doesn't
seal right and you find a lot of chunks.
their airflow sensitivity. This drifts the indicated
airflow. The caked up stuff increases the thermal
impedance of the wire, requiring less heater power
to maintain temp, which reads like less airflow and
makes you run lean. If you must run an oily sock
for an air cleaner then you ought to clean the MAF
with every filter refresh, I think. Q-D contact cleaner
at Home Depot is one of your better bargains, nice
big can. Do not use a cleaner/lubricant type, the
kind that says "fast drying" and "dries clear" is the
stuff you want.
I run a descreened 85mm and life is good. But it's
not for everyone, and there's something to be said
for safe and stock. Especially if your airbox doesn't
seal right and you find a lot of chunks.
