To those doing 1 hour intake swaps...
#1
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To those doing 1 hour intake swaps...
I bow before you! It took me two hours to get the damn thing off, getting the last 2 bolts and that last fuel injector on the drivers side was a bear! and my arms look like someone took a knife to me. Plus I'm pretty sure I broke my oil pressure sending unit
But it's all worth it to learn how this stuff works and to do my own work.
BTW is there anyway to clean the intake ports, they are just covered in sticky black crap and it would really bother me to put it back together like that.
But it's all worth it to learn how this stuff works and to do my own work.
BTW is there anyway to clean the intake ports, they are just covered in sticky black crap and it would really bother me to put it back together like that.
#2
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here is some info i have picked up on/learned:
-use a 8mm/ 5/16" deep 1/4" drive socket & small 1/4" ratchet. 3/8" quick disconnect tool, needle nose pliers,
-i just pull the intake off WITH the fuel rail & injectors/throttle body as an assembly
- use some dikes (wire cutters) and cut the sharp push pins off on the bottom of the wiper cowl. the hold the weather stripping to the plastic cowl. just cut the bottom off them almost flush with the cowl. makes for less scratches
- unbolt the intake from heads. for the back 4-5 bolts, take some 1/4-3/8" rubber hose and cut (4-5) 1" sections & split it with a razor/knife. when you have all the bolts loose use the rubber sections as spacers to hold the remaining rear bolts up. makes life a LOT easier.
- after it is "free" from the engine turn the front of the intake towards the drivers side a good bit.
- disconnect the map sensor plug & the small vac. line from the intake. pick up on the back of the intake to bring the brake booster hose over the oil press. sending unit. take the needle nose pliers and work the clamp away from the intake on the brake booster hose. you may need to use a small screwdriver to free the hose up from the intake. it tends to stick sometimes. (i never put the clamp back on, it has worked for me....)
- pull the intake out of the car!!!
hope this helps a little.
-use a 8mm/ 5/16" deep 1/4" drive socket & small 1/4" ratchet. 3/8" quick disconnect tool, needle nose pliers,
-i just pull the intake off WITH the fuel rail & injectors/throttle body as an assembly
- use some dikes (wire cutters) and cut the sharp push pins off on the bottom of the wiper cowl. the hold the weather stripping to the plastic cowl. just cut the bottom off them almost flush with the cowl. makes for less scratches
- unbolt the intake from heads. for the back 4-5 bolts, take some 1/4-3/8" rubber hose and cut (4-5) 1" sections & split it with a razor/knife. when you have all the bolts loose use the rubber sections as spacers to hold the remaining rear bolts up. makes life a LOT easier.
- after it is "free" from the engine turn the front of the intake towards the drivers side a good bit.
- disconnect the map sensor plug & the small vac. line from the intake. pick up on the back of the intake to bring the brake booster hose over the oil press. sending unit. take the needle nose pliers and work the clamp away from the intake on the brake booster hose. you may need to use a small screwdriver to free the hose up from the intake. it tends to stick sometimes. (i never put the clamp back on, it has worked for me....)
- pull the intake out of the car!!!
hope this helps a little.
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Originally Posted by SpaZMaN
black sticky crap? you mean oil on the inside of your intake? just take some intake cleaner to it.
you *can* put some shop rags/towles down in the runners to keep the big stuff out. JUST MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THEM BEFORE YOU REINSTALL THE INTAKE! trust me, more people do it then you hear about.
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Originally Posted by BLK02TA
How do you prevent from breaking the oil pressure sending unit? Mine needs new knock sensors and am scured of breaking it off.
just pick the intake up for the brake hose to go over the sending unit