This is what I've got for my header install...
04-25-2007, 07:00 PM
#1
This is what I've got for my header install... ...is it ok?
I see this question probably 3-4 times a WEEK. I have one day of school left, I'm incredibly bored here in my room right now, it's raining, so I'm gonna try and address this question once and for all. I will say what I used in case you give a ****, since my install went very easy and I had all the parts I needed and didn't have any emergency trips to the store.
What headers should I buy?
Simple answer... Are you on a budget?
Yes, very: Pacesetters or Ebay
No I want the best: Any SS ones (Kooks, QTP, AR, etc.)
Y or X or H?
Running Duals: X or H
Using a catback: ORY or Catted-Y
What kind of gaskets should I get?
Stock ones are fine, and you CAN reuse them... but since they are very cheap, you've already spent hundreds on your headers and Y-pipe (or duals), so what's another 30-40 bucks for peace of mind? Personally, I bought brand new GM units, mine had 100k miles and I didn't trust them. Your mileage my vary...
What kind of header bolts?
Stock ones are fine (again). Clean them off, inspect the threads, and reuse if you wish. I did NOT use the ones pacesetter gave me, my stock ones were fine and I've never had a problem with them. Here are some other options...
- Some use Stage 8 locking header bolts (I don't recommend them, again, your experience may vary)
Pros: They have a neat locking mechanism to prevent them from loosening and having to retighten
Cons: In my experience they are flimsy, they strip, and the locking things are a pain in the *** to line up. Use them without the locks if you are having trouble, but at that point, they serve same function as stock IMO
- ARP studs (very useful IMO if you find you'll be taking the headers on and off a few times, makes lining up the gasket/header VERY VERY easy).
Pros: Lining up the gasket and header is a breeze
Cons: Expensive... kinda
What kind of plugs do I get?
I have always used TR55s when I did headers (on both my LT1 and my LS1). I gapped mine to .055 and I have been just fine. .050-.060 is generally accepted for bolt on cars.
What kind of plug wires should I get?
Stock ones are fine if they seem to be in good shape. Others use MSD, Taylor, Granetelli, etc. I personally used MSD.
Extensions or Bosch 13111?
I used extensions, two 24" extensions and my stock 02 sensors. Depending on how many miles are on yours, and if they need replacing anyhow, it might be better to just use the 13111s right away. If you bought extensions and are switching to the 13111s, sell the extensions and defray some of the cost! I haven't seen many accounts of people extending the sensors themselves with the kit that comes with some headers, but unless you're 100% confident in your soldering skills it might be better to just go with the extensions, can't beat the GM weatherpack connectors!
02 sims, CEL, or Tune?
Many tuners can tune out your stock rear 02s for a very minimal fee. Others prefer to just run around with the Check Engine light on, and some get sims. I had my tuner program them out. Sims work, but compared to what they cost, the price of a simple tune is many times LESS. Of course, the CEL is the cheapest, but if you have another problem, you wouldn't know unless you scanned it.
So what did I use?
I had a very easy header install, and it was very successful. I used...
Stock header bolts
New stock GM gaskets
TR55s gapped to .055
MSD 8.5 Wires
Rear 02s deleted
2 24" 02 extensions
That was ALL I had on hand, in addition to tools
I had to trim my block tab, EVERY car is different, you may/may not have to trim it, I will never guarantee one way or the other. My headers have never leaked (knock on wood), and I suggest getting them hand tight, then tighten from the INSIDE out, meaning from the center of the motor outward to the rear/front. I have posted what I use in almost every thread I see where someone asks if they have everything they need...
Now IMO it goes without saying, have a wealth of metric sockets, both deep well and shorty, extensions, as well as box wrenches, open ended wrenches, and although not needed, RATCHETING wrenches are killer for the header bolts wayyyy in the back. Good luck on your install, take your time, and be mindful of the dipstick (https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/674173-wierd-noise-discovered.html)
Have fun with the install (from FAQ, few different install guides): https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....64&postcount=2
-J
I see this question probably 3-4 times a WEEK. I have one day of school left, I'm incredibly bored here in my room right now, it's raining, so I'm gonna try and address this question once and for all. I will say what I used in case you give a ****, since my install went very easy and I had all the parts I needed and didn't have any emergency trips to the store.
What headers should I buy?
Simple answer... Are you on a budget?
Yes, very: Pacesetters or Ebay
No I want the best: Any SS ones (Kooks, QTP, AR, etc.)
Y or X or H?
Running Duals: X or H
Using a catback: ORY or Catted-Y
What kind of gaskets should I get?
Stock ones are fine, and you CAN reuse them... but since they are very cheap, you've already spent hundreds on your headers and Y-pipe (or duals), so what's another 30-40 bucks for peace of mind? Personally, I bought brand new GM units, mine had 100k miles and I didn't trust them. Your mileage my vary...
What kind of header bolts?
Stock ones are fine (again). Clean them off, inspect the threads, and reuse if you wish. I did NOT use the ones pacesetter gave me, my stock ones were fine and I've never had a problem with them. Here are some other options...
- Some use Stage 8 locking header bolts (I don't recommend them, again, your experience may vary)
Pros: They have a neat locking mechanism to prevent them from loosening and having to retighten
Cons: In my experience they are flimsy, they strip, and the locking things are a pain in the *** to line up. Use them without the locks if you are having trouble, but at that point, they serve same function as stock IMO
- ARP studs (very useful IMO if you find you'll be taking the headers on and off a few times, makes lining up the gasket/header VERY VERY easy).
Pros: Lining up the gasket and header is a breeze
Cons: Expensive... kinda
What kind of plugs do I get?
I have always used TR55s when I did headers (on both my LT1 and my LS1). I gapped mine to .055 and I have been just fine. .050-.060 is generally accepted for bolt on cars.
What kind of plug wires should I get?
Stock ones are fine if they seem to be in good shape. Others use MSD, Taylor, Granetelli, etc. I personally used MSD.
Extensions or Bosch 13111?
I used extensions, two 24" extensions and my stock 02 sensors. Depending on how many miles are on yours, and if they need replacing anyhow, it might be better to just use the 13111s right away. If you bought extensions and are switching to the 13111s, sell the extensions and defray some of the cost! I haven't seen many accounts of people extending the sensors themselves with the kit that comes with some headers, but unless you're 100% confident in your soldering skills it might be better to just go with the extensions, can't beat the GM weatherpack connectors!
02 sims, CEL, or Tune?
Many tuners can tune out your stock rear 02s for a very minimal fee. Others prefer to just run around with the Check Engine light on, and some get sims. I had my tuner program them out. Sims work, but compared to what they cost, the price of a simple tune is many times LESS. Of course, the CEL is the cheapest, but if you have another problem, you wouldn't know unless you scanned it.
So what did I use?
I had a very easy header install, and it was very successful. I used...
Stock header bolts
New stock GM gaskets
TR55s gapped to .055
MSD 8.5 Wires
Rear 02s deleted
2 24" 02 extensions
That was ALL I had on hand, in addition to tools
I had to trim my block tab, EVERY car is different, you may/may not have to trim it, I will never guarantee one way or the other. My headers have never leaked (knock on wood), and I suggest getting them hand tight, then tighten from the INSIDE out, meaning from the center of the motor outward to the rear/front. I have posted what I use in almost every thread I see where someone asks if they have everything they need...
Now IMO it goes without saying, have a wealth of metric sockets, both deep well and shorty, extensions, as well as box wrenches, open ended wrenches, and although not needed, RATCHETING wrenches are killer for the header bolts wayyyy in the back. Good luck on your install, take your time, and be mindful of the dipstick (https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/674173-wierd-noise-discovered.html)
Have fun with the install (from FAQ, few different install guides): https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....64&postcount=2
-J
Last edited by lastcall190; 04-25-2007 at 07:56 PM.
04-25-2007, 07:34 PM
#4
What kind of plugs do I get?[/B]
I have always used TR55s when I did headers (on both my LT1 and my LS1). I gapped mine to .025 and I have been just fine.
I have always used TR55s when I did headers (on both my LT1 and my LS1). I gapped mine to .025 and I have been just fine.
People should have to learn how to use the search before they can be alllowed to post on this site.
I corrected it in the other spot, yes .050-.060 for bolt on, lemme fix. Thank you.
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03-11-2008, 01:17 PM
#8
Well at least search works 
By clamps what do you mean? I prefer stepped band clamps, they can be had from Summit Racing, Dynomax/Walker make some good ones and they are pretty cheap. If you are in a bind however, NAPA sometimes carries them. If you don't want clamps, I would HIGHLY suggest going v-band on your connections. I had them on my old car and they never leaked. Ever. And that exhaust was beat up a lot. The absolute last resort should be those U-bend clamps. They seal ok, but don't expect to take your exhaust off anytime soon, they basically crimp the pipe. Can be taken apart but requires some good persuasion. HTH.
-J
By clamps what do you mean? I prefer stepped band clamps, they can be had from Summit Racing, Dynomax/Walker make some good ones and they are pretty cheap. If you are in a bind however, NAPA sometimes carries them. If you don't want clamps, I would HIGHLY suggest going v-band on your connections. I had them on my old car and they never leaked. Ever. And that exhaust was beat up a lot. The absolute last resort should be those U-bend clamps. They seal ok, but don't expect to take your exhaust off anytime soon, they basically crimp the pipe. Can be taken apart but requires some good persuasion. HTH.-J
03-11-2008, 01:56 PM
#9
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I just ordered some ARH and was just wondering if I should worry about exhaust leaks. I read all over search about people having leaks and what not with Band clamps. I have no idea what comes with ARH. Once the headers are installed, I don't plan to mess with my exhaust unless I need to. (tranny problems, etc.) So I'm trying to find the best way to limit or eliminate any leaks. Thanks.
03-11-2008, 02:20 PM
#10
Personally, I love band clamps. If the pipes are seated properly they are great. Cheap, simple, and effective. Little bit of advice, use some aluminum foil and 02 safe RTV with the band clamps, it helps. I remember seeing some threads about ARH installs, and the Collector to Y-pipe connection doesn't use a band clamp I don't think. I'll try and dig up some pics. I believe however the y-pipe uses band clamps. Worse case scenario, just get the y-pipe adjusted properly, then weld it up into one piece. DONT weld it to the collectors and i-pipe tho 
That's in case you gotta take it off again in the future...
-J
That's in case you gotta take it off again in the future...-J
03-11-2008, 07:55 PM
#11
band clamps are your friend. NAPA carries them typically for $10 each and they are stainless, really helps when you (inevitably) have to take the exhaust back off again. I made sure my exhaust could come off in pieces so I don't have to saw anything apart when I pull it yet again (for about the 12th time)
