5LiterBeater

I was wondering if anyone else had trouble with the QTEC cutouts sealing on the car. I just got mine and they seem to have a slight leak which of course makes a terrible rattling sound. I could really use some recommendations on how to seal these up when they are closed. I talked to Barry and he said to tap the switch and that would help and it does until you get on the gas. I think that it is the exhaust pulses pushing the butterfly valve open. Also I have the ORP with the dual cutouts and was wondering if that unburnt fuel smell is every going to go away?? Or is that something that has to be tuned out? I know that since I don't have cats anymore that they can't burn off that stuff, but I had no idea that the smell would be that bad.

Colonel if you are out there I know you have these headers and the cutouts so I could really use your input in this matter. Thanks.

99 WS6: Direct-flo airlid, 85mm MAF, LS6 intake manifold, QTP LT headers with the dual electric cutouts, QTP ORP, Corsa cat back, MSD wires, NGK TR55 plugs, ZO6 18x9.5 wheels, HPP3 programmer for shift points and rev liniter.
331.4rwhp and 338.9rwtq, with cutouts open 333rwhp and 344rwtq.

35th LE SS

iTrader: (1)

I have the dual cutout from Barry at Quicktime as well. The fuel smell doesn't go away, or at least mine hasn't. I think you get use to it after awhile. Don't think you can get rid of it with tuning. I had to add fuel at part throttle to get my ltrms to be negative, so it's even a little worse with tuning. Also if you just did headers, new y-pipe, all that stuff kind of smells funny for a little while. Mine smelled for about a week or so, then it went away.

As for the leaking, I just tap the button like Barry suggested. I tried using silcone to help seal it, but it made it worse. Again I think it's something you get use to. Sounds awesome when they're open.

Just as a note, I tried installing the Lakewood driveshaft today and it won't work with the 4" flowmater y. Which means that if you want a driveshaft loop, you're probably going to need a custom one. I'm think about changing my set-up to duals, but I hate to ruin the $600 y-pipe.

Colonel

I talked to Barry and he said to tap the switch and that would help and it does until you get on the gas."

I have the same problem. Tap tap on the switch at idle and it fixes it. Drive, stop, and it's there again.

I haven't really tried to fix it yet since it's not that bad but I plan to.

absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

Not to derail the topic, but Speed Inc got my G2 loop, which is very similar to the Metco loop to fit after shimming some things... but it was/is tight.

Dope

iTrader: (2)

They will always leak. The QTP versions must have weak motors or something because I know the MPP2s don't do that. They shut and stay shut. Doesn't really matter though, mine leaks where the shaft connects to the blade, right on the inside. There's a tiny tiny gap in there, you can feel it if you put your hand up to it. Can't really hear it though, maybe I just have bad hearing.

I think only a design like the FLP one could truly seal perfectly.

Dope

Dope

iTrader: (2)

Oh yeah, a good suggestion is to get some high temp (ultra copper is good) RTV. Spread it all over the sealing surfaces, and then close the motor. Let it dry, then open the motor. It will hold it's shape to make a perfect seal when closed. However, this won't help if you motor is 'blowing' open. The MPP2 must have a really crazy gearing or maybe less slack or something, because I once tried to open my butterfly (off the car) by hand and I bent the butterfly instead of actually turning the shaft. Had to remove it and hammer it flat again!

Dope

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

If the butterfly valve has its shaft offset so
pressure makes it bias closed, this would not
happen. But a neutral or open-favoring bias
relative to centerline will make it "flutter"
and this might also relate to mounting, if you
have something like that Flo-Tech "Y" maybe
there is a pressure-pulse difference side-to-
side from how the exhaust is "taken off" from
the main stream. You might try rotating the
cutout plate to one of its other orientations
and see if this changes the flutter to favor
it pushing closed.