Intimidator

iTrader: (2)

What all needs to be done when doing this, besides blocking off the exhaust holes. Is computer programing necessary? Or will it cause the car to run funny? I don't plan on tuning anytime soon so i was just wondering.

Thanks
D

DERTY

You'll have a bunch of codes thrown. You'd want to have someone with LS1 Edit go in and disable all of them. The car will run fine otherwise.

Intimidator

iTrader: (2)

The SES light is already on anyways from when i had it tuned a couple of weeks ago. It's throwing a shift solenoid code for some reason.

Casper9T9

iTrader: (1)

You will need block-off plates and a plug for the intake. I believe a 35mm freeze plug will work.

Screamin_Z

iTrader: (2)

got to orileys, it's a Motormite 1 3/8" plug. BUT like Derty said u need LS1edit first. u'll car will not run right. ur computer needs those programs taken out to make it run like it should. Check on Ebay for the blockoff plates, cheapest place I've seen them. DO NOT buy them from a tuner unless they throw the plates in for free like mine did. Tuners sale them way to expensive for what they are, just 1/8" stainless steel, they don't even come with new gasket. If u go to ebay u can find all the plugs u need and I've seen some come with gaskets.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

took mine off and other than the light, had no running problems...dont know what you are talking about there, but o well.

Agree with ebay for plates.

After removal you will not frown on sprak plug changes anymore, well not as much. Now I want to relocate my coils, somewhere outta the way not sure where though.

Good-luck, and have patients taking out the AIR pump, takes a few minutes laying on your back and a long extension.

Screamin_Z

iTrader: (2)

Intimidator is also wanting to take the EGR, that will throw a code and make the car not run right. the air really is no big deal.

Casper9T9

iTrader: (1)

Removing either the AIR or the EGR will set an SES light. Neither will affect performance. The EGR has a cooling effect for the combustion and reduces NOx levels. It only works during part throttle; at WOT the EGR is turned off. The only area in which you will lose with EGR removal will be emissions and gas milage. My car runs just fine w/o AIR and EGR, no "limp mode" here...

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Thats what I said.

Intimidator

iTrader: (2)

thanks guys. I'll get the codes removed later.

D

Screamin_Z

iTrader: (2)

the codes will come back if u just delete them, if u want them gone for good then u NEED LS1 like I said. It will hurt performance if ur car is programed for EGR and AIR (not so much AIR tho) trust me. I have seen the results on a dyno. It's not much but it does hurt performance.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Screamin Z--I have my codes deleted, via Predator. They no come back either! And like stated above if the EGR only works PT, then what did you do?, dyno at PT? I can see no reason for the Dyno results to be different for EGR/AIR. Now maybe you seen a differnce in DA, from weather effects or whatever, but I am positive that it will not effect performance at WOT/Idle or anythign other than Emissions, and a little mileage maybe!

30thWS6

Let's think about this. You're cruising down the road with about 30% throttle and 100% EGR, so the intake charge is @ 15% exhaust gas. Now what does the engine management system (EMS) engineer have to program into the ignition map to reliably light this mixture that contains nearly 15% of an inert gas, essentially a gas that does not promote combustion. Typically 60 degrees BTDC is not uncommon for this type of scenario. 60 degrees is a hell of lot of timing for an engine without domed pistons. Now take that 15% of inert gas out the mix, without any ignition or fuel map reprogramming, and you have a very likely recipe for light detonation and driveability problems. Think about it, that's 15% more fuel the injectors have to inject to maintain stoich. So in other words, the system initially runs dangerously lean (which it already runs lean at cruise), combined with advanced ignition timing, equals detonation. As said in previous posts, EGR only works at PT, not WOT, so who cares anyway, just to clean up one stupid hose.

Intimidator

iTrader: (2)

Well i took it off. No runability issues. I'll hook it up to a scanner tomorrow to check A/F and see if there is any KR.

D

joshs2000ss

Just for clarification, removing the EGR system will affect my gas mileage? If so, how much?

Derek 357i

iTrader: (1)

What search are you guys using on ebay? I haven't been able to locate any plugs or blockoffs

hyattz28

so am i gonna mess up my car if i delete both?? yall have me extremely confused... please clarify...

blblack

I've been getting mixed messages on this stuff too, also in roughly the same boat (mostly stock 99 WS6 T/A, just a little simple bolt-on and tuning, HPP3 tuner, 160 thermo, TBB, K&N FIPK, etc). I really want to kill my EGR and AIR to free up some room in the engine bay and get the crappy exhaust gas out of my intake.

If I grab LS1Edit or something similar, what exactly is it that I need to do to disable the EGR and AIR SES codes (and I assume that also makes it look like a pass to an emissions test computer in TX). If it's just "delete the codes", I'm sure I can figure that out, but if as mentioned above, deleting EGR means some custom tuning of the A/F ratio or spark advance... that sounds like a pita that I'm not equipped to deal with myself.