bigfatls6

iTrader: (34)

What do you do for a mass air and air lid? i know slp offers a 85 mm mass air but what if you have a 90mm or larger tb/intake? What about the air lid? I am thinking about getting one of the 96mm ls2 pp intake set ups for my new engine.

Fabrizi

iTrader: (1)

You can run an 85mm MAF with a 90/90. I'm running a stock MAF/whisper lid on my FAST setup.

FMX05

iTrader: (3)

TSP and lingenfelter make 100mm TB's if you want to go that route. The stock MAF has proven itself to 500+ horsepower and is regarded as easier to tune than any of the others. Another option is to get an 85mm Z06 MAF from a parts store. Factory GM calibrated so they plug and play for the most part. Do some searching and see if you need an adapter or anything. Just don't de-screen your stock MAF whatever you do. Mine was descreened before I bought it and I'm looking for a screened one. It's there for a reason.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

STOP STOP STOP.

The stock maf might have proven itself to 500+ horsepower, but so have factory manifolds and catbacks, but that doesn't mean that they aren't a restriction on a modified motor. And as far as the 'don't descreen your maf' that's partially true. Don't descreen it if you don't have a way to change the maf table in your pcm. The factory screened maf was calibrated with the screen in place and once you remove it, it leans out the motor artificially because you get more airflow than what it was calibrated for.

If you have a programmer, or know someone who has one, get a descreened 85mm maf and customize the maf table to match the 03+ Z06 table. That will be a good starting point for tuning with it. The electronics may be good for up to 500hp, but that doesn't mean it will flow well enough to make 500hp.

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

I got a ported FAST90 with a NW throttle body, a stock 85mm MAF(I think Z06), and one of the old TSP 85mm lids and retuned the maf to show the proper airflow.The stock bellows fit the 85mm MAF and 90mm throttle body just fine but they are tight.

bigfatls6

iTrader: (34)

So what is the point of getting a larger intake and throttle body if your going to leave it choked down with a smaller factory massair?

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I have a feeling that a lot of people are still stuck back in the early 2000's where there really wasn't tuning options and if you altered the maf, you would skew the tune, so some people liked that option on a stock internal motor, because the factory tune was typically rich, but once you go past simple bolt ons, a descreened maf without tuning adjustments could lean you out too much.

But just because the stock calibration is good enough to 500hp, it doesn't mean that it will flow well enough to make that power, just like the stock cats. Sure you can push over 500hp through them, but they are certainly a flow restriction.

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

Don't forget your Fast Toys 85mm air lid to go with those combos

bigfatls6

iTrader: (34)

Does any one offer anything larger than the 85mm lid? It is pretty useless the have 90 or 96 mm intake and throttle body if your airlid is only 85mm. It looks like when I order my intake and throttle body it will be an 85mm setup.

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

What we call an 85mm MAF actually has a larger outlet than that. The OD is actually 96mm and the ID is 90mm. The FTRA is actually about 98mm ID and just about 102mm ID. That makes it work very well with FAST 90 intakes and TB's or for people that want to go speed density.

For reference, a stock MAF has an OD of 88mm and an ID of 74mm.

The internal volume of the Fast Toys 85mm lid is about 14 % more than most popular aftermarket lids and 27 % more than the stock lid with the baffles removed.

We've consistently seen heads and cam cars pick up a solid MPH with the installation of an 85mm air lid and the Fast Toys 85mm air lid.

FMX05

iTrader: (3)

I completely get what your saying, but he hasn't told us what the intention of this motor is. The stock MAF will probably serve him fine unless he is doing a H/C setup or he is going with a larger displacement.

As for the descreened MAF... To me it is just as much a last line of defense as a metering tool. I know its original design is to straighten out air flow before the sensor itself, but I have seen some nasty stuff get by the filter and the screen stopped it. It's just one of those things. The HP gain on a fairly stock motor by descreening the MAF is probably next to nothing. Why remove it until you have to?

When the MAF becomes this guys restriction he should change it. Don't get me wrong, you should do what you want to, and eventually the stock MAF isn't going to cut it. Get the Z06 MAF if you do feel like changing it out. It's not very expensive in comparison to the aftermarket units. If your going 400+ci or something ridiculous then have at it and get a 100mm.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I think you would have a bigger problem if you are collecting stuff on the screen of your maf. If I opened my lid and saw that I had nasty stuff on the screen of my maf, I'd park my car and figure out what the hell happened to my air filter to allow nasty stuff past it and get trapped on the maf screen.

Seriously, if you are using the maf screen as a last line of defense for air filtering, then I would check the filter and lid to make sure it is sealing properly because you're dancing with the devil if you are getting stuff past your filter.

I've got to do a search, but I think the amount of cfm difference between a stock, screened maf and a descreened maf is quite significant, on the order of 100s of cfm. So yes, if you car is box stock, then you won't notice the difference, but once you add headers, a lid, or even a cam, then your screened maf will start to become a flow restriction. Remember, it's a numbers game with normally aspirated motors, you're only going to flow as much as the lowest flowing component in both the intake and exhaust tracts.