Valve job
10-15-2008, 10:18 PM
#1
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Valve job I've done searches here and can't find the results I am looking for, so here goes:
I am rebuilding my motor thanks to this http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98399 and I am not sure what I want to do with my heads...? I don't want to spend the money for heads, and my stock 241's do have 85,000 on them, so I was considering having a valve job done? I have done valve jobs before, but only on lawnmower/OPE engines (Briggs, Kohler, etc) and I don't think I wanna risk doing this myself. What do I need to look for when shopping around, and if anyone has an idea of price, that would certainly be appreciated.
I am rebuilding my motor thanks to this http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98399 and I am not sure what I want to do with my heads...? I don't want to spend the money for heads, and my stock 241's do have 85,000 on them, so I was considering having a valve job done? I have done valve jobs before, but only on lawnmower/OPE engines (Briggs, Kohler, etc) and I don't think I wanna risk doing this myself. What do I need to look for when shopping around, and if anyone has an idea of price, that would certainly be appreciated.
10-16-2008, 02:39 PM
#2
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I would take the heads to a reputable machine shop and have them checked over good before you make any decisions. Make sure they check the guides for wear. You may end up needing guides and if so it would probly be cheaper to just buy a set of budget ported heads. That being said a GOOD inspection/cleanup/valve job/assembly will probly be in the $400 neighborhood. You might be just as well off looking into a low milage take-off set of 243s
Last edited by CW 99 Z; 10-16-2008 at 02:40 PM. Reason: ..
10-16-2008, 08:11 PM
#4
From what I've seen, guides are usually OK. They are made of a very durable powdered metal that don't usually wear very much. It'll probably just need a bump through with the hone.
As for the valvejob, are you going to reuse the stock valves? From the factory, the seat diameter of the valvejob is cut less than the actual diameter of the valve. So say for a 2.00" valve, the seat cut is about 1.95" stock. This is a longevity practice. When you open it up to 2.00" (or bigger...) for the stock valves, I was warned that they tend to bend, or "tulip". Not good.
As for the valvejob, are you going to reuse the stock valves? From the factory, the seat diameter of the valvejob is cut less than the actual diameter of the valve. So say for a 2.00" valve, the seat cut is about 1.95" stock. This is a longevity practice. When you open it up to 2.00" (or bigger...) for the stock valves, I was warned that they tend to bend, or "tulip". Not good.
10-16-2008, 09:39 PM
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From what I've seen, guides are usually OK. They are made of a very durable powdered metal that don't usually wear very much. It'll probably just need a bump through with the hone.
As for the valvejob, are you going to reuse the stock valves? From the factory, the seat diameter of the valvejob is cut less than the actual diameter of the valve. So say for a 2.00" valve, the seat cut is about 1.95" stock. This is a longevity practice. When you open it up to 2.00" (or bigger...) for the stock valves, I was warned that they tend to bend, or "tulip". Not good.
As for the valvejob, are you going to reuse the stock valves? From the factory, the seat diameter of the valvejob is cut less than the actual diameter of the valve. So say for a 2.00" valve, the seat cut is about 1.95" stock. This is a longevity practice. When you open it up to 2.00" (or bigger...) for the stock valves, I was warned that they tend to bend, or "tulip". Not good.
-I will NOT be upgrading heads at this time because the wallet and the wife say no haha-