cam good for 8k rpms??
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cam good for 8k rpms??
Is there a cam out that will rev to 7800-8k rpms on a forged 346 with a sick set of heads??
if not can anyone custom grind me one???
if not can anyone custom grind me one???
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sig is old i sold the iron block
even at 7500 rpm would a ported fast 90 accomodate that?? or would i still need sheet metal
as of right now I am still on stock bottom end over winter I am just going to forge that. I just want to get a little more out if it
even at 7500 rpm would a ported fast 90 accomodate that?? or would i still need sheet metal
as of right now I am still on stock bottom end over winter I am just going to forge that. I just want to get a little more out if it
#5
id say a fast 90 would allow you to shift at that rpm. a sheetmetal would add alot more power at that rpm though. i think most ms4 cams and such can be shifted at 7k with good heads and fast 90.
#6
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Dude if you are going to go that high you are stepping into solid roller territory. A hyd. roller would probably not make it that high unless you have light valvetrain components plus the cam would have to be a sick grind. It would probably be big duration with a tight lsa, but what do I know I mess with turbo buicks, we shift at 5800.
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been there with a solid roller and ET heads. Pulled good to 8000 rpm. Cam was 262/268 dur. at .050 lift was .734 on a 110. Sheetmetal intake, 90mm tb. Car made 526 to the wheels thru a 6 spd. and a S60 on pump gas. Drivability sucked, and it was hard to tune...I won't do that again.
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it may very well be I am jst trying to think outside the box and have something a little bit different then everyone else, just an idea.
I dont really think 7500 is that bad though
I dont really think 7500 is that bad though
#12
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How about a stock shortblock 6.0 with 5.3 heads (good valve job and some milling), a single plane with 4-bbl EFI, stock lifters and rocker arms, a custom hydraulic roller cam, and good valve springs that spins to 7800 every run in a bracket dragster. It has run all season and is at Maple Grove this weekend.
Very consistent 8.70-8.80s in the mid 150s. Not bad for a budget build.
You really don't need to get exotic/expensive if you do things correctly. The cam is a critical component, of course. Manifold choice will determine if you will make power in the upper rpm range.
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It can be done....already has.
How about a stock shortblock 6.0 with 5.3 heads (good valve job and some milling), a single plane with 4-bbl EFI, stock lifters and rocker arms, a custom hydraulic roller cam, and good valve springs that spins to 7800 every run in a bracket dragster. It has run all season and is at Maple Grove this weekend.
Very consistent 8.70-8.80s in the mid 150s. Not bad for a budget build.
You really don't need to get exotic/expensive if you do things correctly. The cam is a critical component, of course. Manifold choice will determine if you will make power in the upper rpm range.
How about a stock shortblock 6.0 with 5.3 heads (good valve job and some milling), a single plane with 4-bbl EFI, stock lifters and rocker arms, a custom hydraulic roller cam, and good valve springs that spins to 7800 every run in a bracket dragster. It has run all season and is at Maple Grove this weekend.
Very consistent 8.70-8.80s in the mid 150s. Not bad for a budget build.
You really don't need to get exotic/expensive if you do things correctly. The cam is a critical component, of course. Manifold choice will determine if you will make power in the upper rpm range.
#15
It can be done....already has.
How about a stock shortblock 6.0 with 5.3 heads (good valve job and some milling), a single plane with 4-bbl EFI, stock lifters and rocker arms, a custom hydraulic roller cam, and good valve springs that spins to 7800 every run in a bracket dragster. It has run all season and is at Maple Grove this weekend.
Very consistent 8.70-8.80s in the mid 150s. Not bad for a budget build.
You really don't need to get exotic/expensive if you do things correctly. The cam is a critical component, of course. Manifold choice will determine if you will make power in the upper rpm range.
How about a stock shortblock 6.0 with 5.3 heads (good valve job and some milling), a single plane with 4-bbl EFI, stock lifters and rocker arms, a custom hydraulic roller cam, and good valve springs that spins to 7800 every run in a bracket dragster. It has run all season and is at Maple Grove this weekend.
Very consistent 8.70-8.80s in the mid 150s. Not bad for a budget build.
You really don't need to get exotic/expensive if you do things correctly. The cam is a critical component, of course. Manifold choice will determine if you will make power in the upper rpm range.
And to the OP, to repeat what was said, yes, it can be done, a ported carb intake would be a better choice than a fast for 8k rpm's, and don't expect to drive it on the street with any kind of manners at all. Won't make power under 4k, and will be a BEAST to tune and idle around in.
#16
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Yeah, it can be done, been there on a hydraulic cam, only exotic thing we used was a Comp Shaft rocker system (what a bitch for cover clearance, ended up getting aftermarket covers and relocated coils, Clears stock covers my *** (as per Comp)). maybe 40/45 passes so far, still holding. 8000 shifts, only once (1>2) though (powerglide)
#18
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haha you guys were the first ones I thought of when I read this. That's some voodoo magic in my opinion to get a stock lifter to last a full season under the valve pressure you'd think was needed to control a valve at 8k. But I know you guys have ways to deal with that. I'm sure if you told me the open and seat pressure I wouldn't believe you (I would though, it would just probably amaze me).
And to the OP, to repeat what was said, yes, it can be done, a ported carb intake would be a better choice than a fast for 8k rpm's, and don't expect to drive it on the street with any kind of manners at all. Won't make power under 4k, and will be a BEAST to tune and idle around in.
And to the OP, to repeat what was said, yes, it can be done, a ported carb intake would be a better choice than a fast for 8k rpm's, and don't expect to drive it on the street with any kind of manners at all. Won't make power under 4k, and will be a BEAST to tune and idle around in.
I'm wondering if the bottom or top end will need rebuilding first, or perhaps fail first. So far so good AFAIK.
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From what Ive seen ,the weakest links in the stock LS1 motors are the piston ring landings , then the rods, and valve springs. The strongest is the crank .I build a 347cid. with eagle rods with L19 rod bolt and Ross pistons and a stock crank and had it all balanced and run tons of nitrous threw it , I shifted it a 7800rpms all day log. And steal the motor is in good shape. I have it on a motor stand as a back up if i need it. The LSX style engines are very tuff. And I will never go back to the old style sbc engines.