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Does a 2001 5.3L engine have same reluctor ring as 98 LS1?

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Old 01-05-2009, 05:40 PM
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Default Does a 2001 5.3L engine have same reluctor ring as 98 LS1?

I am needing to know if a 2001 5.3L Gen III V8 has the same reluctor ring on the crank as a 98 LS1, wanting to try and find one to stick in my 98 thats in my budget and hopefully put my LS1 stuff on it and drop it in for now. Id only be putting on an LS6 intake and headers, the rest id leave. What all other electronics would I need to change over?
Old 01-05-2009, 05:47 PM
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Yes sir, both wheels are 24x.
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
Yes sir, both wheels are 24x.
What about the crank rear main, I heard the 5.3 has a longer rear main so thatd mean it wouldnt bolt up to a T56 rite and id have to put an LS1 crank in there......... or could I just throw a 4L60e at it? If the rear main isnt longer id like to go with my T56
Old 01-05-2009, 06:01 PM
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i bolted my stock t56 up to my lq9 no problems you should be fine but id double check that just to be sure
Old 01-05-2009, 06:05 PM
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I have an LQ9 as well, its fine, it seems the earlier model engines, like 99, 00, some 01s had the longer cranks but my LQ9 doesnt, im just wanting to do the 5.3L swap as a temp so I can take my time on the LQ9 and prob stroke it.
Old 01-05-2009, 11:39 PM
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The 6.0 cranks are the only ones that were longer. The 5.3 crank will work. The only difference between the LS1 and 5.3 crank is that the LS1 was drilled through the throws to lighten it. Are you looking to put a 5.3 in your car or use the 5.3 crank in an LS1?
Old 01-06-2009, 12:58 AM
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5.3L in my car....... for now that is, until I finish my 6.0L build.
Old 01-06-2009, 10:13 AM
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It's pretty much a direct bolt in. All sensors are identical, so you don't have to swap any of that around. You will need to drill the block for the alternator mount just like the 6.0 and the ground from the battery will need to be moved to the motor mount bolt.
Old 01-06-2009, 10:19 AM
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Everyone says to drill the 5.3 or 6.0 for the alternator bolt but if you look at the block theres no flat surface in that spot to drill at, itd be actually drilling into the block and I really dont wanna do that, I know people who got away with just bolting it down with 2 bolts super tight. I may weld a nut in place or something to the block. The 5.3 Im getting will come with accessories as well, im sure they arent interchangeable but would it maybe be possible?
Old 01-06-2009, 10:23 AM
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The bottom bolt hole is there...the left most bolt from your LS1 bracket will fall into a coolant passage and sleeve...don't drill that one. The third bolt for the front side (most rightward and higher up) is the one you need to drill and tap. There is a good bit of material there so you don't have to fret too badly about going into the wrong passage. Then you use the little bracket on the backside, as it just bolts on and the hold is already there for it.

So you use two on the front and the one on the back. Hope that clears it up!
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Old 01-06-2009, 11:22 AM
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Ill see if thatll work. Would you have a pic of this? I seen that the bottom and left bolt are there, its the one up top to the right that is needed.

Are the stock exhaust manifolds for the 5.3L the same for the LS1.
Old 01-06-2009, 11:45 AM
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You see the two holes nearest the bottom on the right side of the block (driver's side)? The farther left is a timing cover bolt hole, and the other is for the alternator bracket. The one that will not be operational falls into the block where it's stamped 6.0L and is underlined in white in that pic. The third one, the one needing to be drilled and tapped is directly right of that white underline. You see the thick boss area there, bot no hole, just below the head/deck surface? That's the spot!

That help?
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Old 01-06-2009, 01:06 PM
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The manifolds are different.
Old 01-06-2009, 01:49 PM
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any information on the thread size, depth and specs so I can just give em to the machines shop?

I see the hole here but I dont really see a flat surface on the iron blocks to drill...


Last edited by Mike96z; 01-06-2009 at 01:56 PM.
Old 01-06-2009, 01:58 PM
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For instance....... looks round and looks hard to drill there.

Old 01-06-2009, 02:04 PM
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Red is the location of the one that will not be there anymore...green are a go! Top right green one has to be drilled/tapped. Better?
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Old 01-06-2009, 02:08 PM
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OH!!!!! LMFAO, my bad man, I totally thought everyone was talking about drilling and tapping the one you marked as red so it kinda seemed funny to me. Thats more visual, thanks for the info and help.

Also want to know if the 5.3L heads have the same valve springs as an LS1? I wanna take out the small cam it has and put a stock 98 LS1 cam that is .497/.497... if the springs are the same as LS1 then I should be good.
Old 01-06-2009, 02:15 PM
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I'd at least put a new set of LS6 springs on there....they're cheap insurance!
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Old 01-06-2009, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
I'd at least put a new set of LS6 springs on there....they're cheap insurance!
I really dont wanna pull the heads as its a long block, assembled and running, just wanna drop it in and go, dont really care too much about the engine as its just to get me around until my 6.0L is done. Could you verify that the Ls1 springs and 5.3L springs are the same on both heads? If so thats enough info for me and a stock LS1 cam I dont think will hurt, not planning on going with a cam bigger than the 98 LS1 cam. Its not much bigger than the truck cam but its enough, the truck cam is built for tq.
Old 01-06-2009, 02:19 PM
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98-2000 LS1 Cam
202/210 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.496" / 0.496" int/exh lift
116 LSA

5.3L Cam
190/191 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.466" / 0.457" int/exh lift
114 LSA


I dont see a big enough change to hurt anything but I do think I can gain from it?


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