Just Finished my Forged 347, What is the break in period on a Forged Motor?
04-20-2009, 12:18 PM
#1
Just Finished my Forged 347, What is the break in period on a Forged Motor? I just finished my Forged 347 build. I have Total Seal Steel Top Rings and Diamond Forged Pistons and Compstar Rods the rest is in the signature. I was told by Mechanic (ALITITUDE INTENSE RACING) that there is a 5000 mile break in period for forged motors and steel rings..? He also said to keep checking the oil level with these rings cause during the break in period there will be blow by till they are seated. What is the reccomendation on RPM'S to stay under and the Rule on getting on it. I know I have to change the oil after 500 miles, but I didnt know the rest. I want to CMOA, after dropping the money. So, what are the rules of Breaking in a Forged Motor?
04-20-2009, 12:37 PM
#2
When I did my forged moter, used mineral oil for the first 1,000 mile's (no synthetic). I fired the engine for the first time on the lift and worked the air out of the coolant system. So after a hour or so of running I drained the oil and changed the filter. Drove it around keeping the rpm's under 3,500 for about 300 miles, changed the oil and filter again and took it to the dyno. After the dyno changed the oil one more time with mineral oil and drove it for 500 or so miles the switched back to synthetic. Heat cycling is the most important thing. My oil changes were a bit much but oil and filters are cheap forged SB's arent.
04-20-2009, 12:45 PM
#4
Some people don't even keep the rpms down for that long. I had to get it on a dyno, it was running pig rich from the 60# injectors. But yes The moter had 300 miles on it and we let her rip to 5,000rpms on the dyno. I would have taken it all the way to 6,800rpms but my fuel pump was out of steam. Made 540/502 hp/tq @ 5,000 with 300 miles on the engine no problems at all.
04-20-2009, 12:58 PM
#6
TECH Senior Member
Rings seat in the first 20>30 minutes of operation.
This is what I do with my motors:
Start it, let it warm to operating temperatures. Shut it down and let it cool.
I do that 2 more times
On the 4th run as soon as it is hot, I take it to 5K and back to idle, 1/2 a dozen times. (like rev high 3>4 seconds and back off).
Then I change the oil and go drive it at different speeds/ load for 500 miles. Change oil again and voila.
(Different poeple will recommmend different things, it doesn't mean one is better than the other)
This is what I do with my motors:
Start it, let it warm to operating temperatures. Shut it down and let it cool.
I do that 2 more times
On the 4th run as soon as it is hot, I take it to 5K and back to idle, 1/2 a dozen times. (like rev high 3>4 seconds and back off).
Then I change the oil and go drive it at different speeds/ load for 500 miles. Change oil again and voila.
(Different poeple will recommmend different things, it doesn't mean one is better than the other)
04-20-2009, 01:02 PM
#7
Rings seat in the first 20>30 minutes of operation.
This is what I do with my motors:
Start it, let it warm to operating temperatures. Shut it down and let it cool.
I do that 2 more times
On the 4th run as soon as it is hot, I take it to 5K and back to idle, 1/2 a dozen times. (like rev high 3>4 seconds and back off).
Then I change the oil and go drive it at different speeds/ load for 500 miles. Change oil again and voila.
(Different poeple will recommmend different things, it doesn't mean one is better than the other)
This is what I do with my motors:
Start it, let it warm to operating temperatures. Shut it down and let it cool.
I do that 2 more times
On the 4th run as soon as it is hot, I take it to 5K and back to idle, 1/2 a dozen times. (like rev high 3>4 seconds and back off).
Then I change the oil and go drive it at different speeds/ load for 500 miles. Change oil again and voila.
(Different poeple will recommmend different things, it doesn't mean one is better than the other)
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04-20-2009, 01:04 PM
#8
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Rings seat in the first 20>30 minutes of operation.
This is what I do with my motors:
Start it, let it warm to operating temperatures. Shut it down and let it cool.
I do that 2 more times
On the 4th run as soon as it is hot, I take it to 5K and back to idle, 1/2 a dozen times. (like rev high 3>4 seconds and back off).
Then I change the oil and go drive it at different speeds/ load for 500 miles. Change oil again and voila.
(Different poeple will recommmend different things, it doesn't mean one is better than the other)
This is what I do with my motors:
Start it, let it warm to operating temperatures. Shut it down and let it cool.
I do that 2 more times
On the 4th run as soon as it is hot, I take it to 5K and back to idle, 1/2 a dozen times. (like rev high 3>4 seconds and back off).
Then I change the oil and go drive it at different speeds/ load for 500 miles. Change oil again and voila.
(Different poeple will recommmend different things, it doesn't mean one is better than the other)
04-20-2009, 01:07 PM
#9
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start it, make sure there is oil pressure... rev it up to limiter for 5-10 seconds. shut it down and tell it, this is how your life is going to be... you better get used to it... always worked for me!!! lol...
04-20-2009, 01:12 PM
#10
Rings seat in the first 20>30 minutes of operation.
This is what I do with my motors:
Start it, let it warm to operating temperatures. Shut it down and let it cool.
I do that 2 more times
On the 4th run as soon as it is hot, I take it to 5K and back to idle, 1/2 a dozen times. (like rev high 3>4 seconds and back off).
Then I change the oil and go drive it at different speeds/ load for 500 miles. Change oil again and voila.
(Different poeple will recommmend different things, it doesn't mean one is better than the other)
This is what I do with my motors:
Start it, let it warm to operating temperatures. Shut it down and let it cool.
I do that 2 more times
On the 4th run as soon as it is hot, I take it to 5K and back to idle, 1/2 a dozen times. (like rev high 3>4 seconds and back off).
Then I change the oil and go drive it at different speeds/ load for 500 miles. Change oil again and voila.
(Different poeple will recommmend different things, it doesn't mean one is better than the other)
That is very similar to my motors break in. They heat cycled a few times and then changed the oil. Then did the basic street tuning to get her running right and changed the oil again. After I drove 1200 miles in her to get home I changed the oil/filter again. After inspecting the oil and the filter there were no metal anything to be found. Swept the oil with a magnet, and found nothing. I was very pleased when I saw that. LG Motorsports did a good job setting her up for me to drive home. I consider the motor now that I am running 15w50 mobil 1 to be completely broke in. Good luck brother.
What Oil Filter would you guys recommend during the break in process Puralotor?
04-20-2009, 04:16 PM
#13
TECH Senior Member
No internet pissing match please.
04-20-2009, 06:49 PM
#15
No argument here. Or urination for that matter. I was just asking for clarification in case I overlooked some aspect of the ls engine family. Like you said everyone has their own break in procedure. I've worked as a dealership auto tech for about 14 years and every person I've worked with has explained and done it a little different. I am no exception. We basically said the same thing in different words. Sometimes its difficult to infer context from print on a screen. No harm no foul.
04-20-2009, 06:54 PM
#16
I apologize for the threadjack. I have always used the bosch or mobil 1 filters for all my engine builds. Either are great. I always advise people to stay away from fram though. I have seen a few filters that the media actually pulled out of the filter and wound up in the oil passages. Mostly big block buicks. HTH
