BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

I was racing a couple weeks ago and I got stuck on the 2-3 shift. When I finally engaged into what I thought was 3rd, the car lunged forward and jerked back and forth hard a couple. I think I heard a loud scary bang too followed by the jerking. This was only for a fraction of a second, as I threw in the clutch and rode out disengaged until I regained my bearings and shifted into 4th. I really don't know what happend. The only conclusion that I can come to is that I might have gone into 1st.

The car seems to ride fine and sound fine, no ticking. However, I went to the track twice afterwards with times getting worse and worse. I did a search on bending pushrods and concluded this is what I have to check. Just wanted to know if there is anything else I may have to check from the description of my scenario? Where is the best place to do a roll test? Will a flat table do as long as it is level? Also, if I find that I did bend one, some, etc. Where can I get them fast? Do I have to buy a whole set of 16 and wait for them to come in? Thanks

Hannibal

Broken spring/s is another possibility. Roll test on a flat table (glass top is best IMO). Finding them is easy - aftermarket = any vendor to the left will carry them - Stock = many members will have them laying around.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

If your times are dropping it can't hurt to check the pushrods.Sometimes there is no ticking when they are bent.Just roll them on a piece of glass.I would replace them all if a few are bent.

Jabroni

Chances are that, yes, you nailed first gear. The glass table way is one of the best. There are a multitude of places to get them...and relatively quickly. Get some good, hardened ones, too. Do it right since you've got to open the top up. I hope that's all you have. Cross your fingers.

TTPMatt

iTrader: (18)

BLASTER: Tried calling ya before.. We have stock & aftermarket both springs & pushrods in stock.

Call me direct anytime you want tonight 516-779-2330. We can get you a set tomorrow if you need them asap.

- Matt

sleeperz28

I'd stick with weaker stock pushrods unless you get better springs too. Otherwise if you miss shift with hardened pushrods and stock springs it will likely bend a valve instead.

And while pushrods usually may not tick, they can depending on how bent they are. Mine was ticking for a week before it broke . Fortunatly that was the only part that broke. So I went with hardened pushrods. But I also bought a used hotcam w/springs(all checked at machine shop before install) for $200 shipped. I don't have much money for mods so this was a nice extra since I wanted different springs anyway. After the pacesetters LT's are on I'll have nice power/$$ ratio for less than $850 total . I'll probably get tuning too but still very cost effective.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

I will obviously be able to tell if there is a broken spring, right? I've heard a pushrod check is relatively easy and I've read the procedure over and over. Does it really only take like two hours? It does'nt look like I can my hands to the rear of the engine. I can see getting everything off, but torquing the back rockers must be a pain.

Matt, Sorry I missed your call. Didn't check the pushrods yet, but i't very good to know that I can them quick.
I'll try calling you later.

Jabroni

Nah, the back rockers aren't bad at all. You should be able to remove the valve covers, rockers and PR's AND have it reassembled in two hours working slow.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

A broken spring is NOT always obvious. I had a broken blue stripe 918 and didn't even know it. Only found out when I pulled the heads to ship them to have them CNCed. Found the broken spring when I was disassembling the head for shipment. Discovered the first coil of the spring stuck to the retainer as I was separating the springs from the retainers. It's a lot more work to remove andcheck the springs than just removing the rockers to check the rods.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Don't think I'll be taking the spring off since I don't have a compression tool so I will just give them a close inspection. Any way I can notice a bent valve? What else should I be on the look out for when I'm in there? Metal shavings? Thanks

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Your going to need to have some very good eye sight to spot a broken spring if it is fractured as mine was. My blue stripe 918 spring was still coiled properly even though it was broken. You can do the rods first and if that doesn't solve your problem you can go back in to check the springs and valves, but that is double work. If you don't find any bent rods you better check the springs and valve stems. You can rent a OEM spring tool from Auto Zone for free.

Matt @ TT Performance

BLASTER: If you want, we may have some time early next week to take a look and diagnose your problem. Give me a call if you'd like to come in.

- Matt

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Well, check the pushrod and they all exibit the same behavior when I roll them. I tested them on a piece of glass and on a sheet metal table. They seem to sound like they are slightly bent on thje glass by the sound but sound ok on the table. I put a light behind them and tried to wobble them, with everything turning out to be consistant for all 16.

So here are my conclusions:
-Both surfaces are not completely level, and/or
-Pushrod just make a weird sound on glass, and/or
-All 16 are exacly slightly(the smallest amount possible) bent in the same way. Very unlikely.

Regardless, I believe that they are all OK. I figure I was to bent/break/fatigue anything in the valvetrain, it would be the pushrods before transmitting this energy to the springs/valves. Also, is this correct?

Also, none of the holes were egg shaped and showed no signs of ware. Don't know if I I even had a problem, maybe just me being paranoid after I screwed up on the shift. Thanks all. Much appreciated. Matt, I will reach out to you tonight or tomorrow. I welcome any further comments/suggestions