niphilli

Hey guys,
I bought a T1 a couple of months back and it looks like I will finally have time to install it

My Question is about pushrods. At the time I bought the cam I did not buy hardened pushrods, and now I am starting to have second thoughts. My logic was that the ramp rates on the T1 are not that radical and I would rather bend a pushrod than a valve if I miss a shift. I am only going to bump the limiter to 6500, shift at 6300. Will the stockers give up with normal driving (no missed shifts)?

Anyone install a B1/T1 with stock pushrods? (car has 28K miles)

TIA,
-Nick

98SS Blackattack

Alot of people use stock pushrods. I am and i shift at 6400. I think they are the same ones that are in your Z06

niphilli

Thanks Black attack,

Anyone else? I know there are alot of these cams out there.

SouthFL.02.SS

I think hardened pushrods are a worthy investment. I bought them when I had a C1.

jmX

There's lots of people that have used stock pushrods with cams, and I havent heard of any having issues yet. As long as you aren't going insane with a super high pressure spring, my guess is you are going to be totally fine with the stock pushrods. I don't know if anybody has tested the limits of the stock pushrod, aside from proving they bend when the piston and valve contact each other.

smokin' joe 00 ss

If thats your two red Hot Rods in that pic I would think youv'e got the $$ to buy the hardened push rods why go the cheap route you haven't so far. I went with the hardened ones with my B1, I think anytime you can make the valve train stronger go for it.

niphilli

I was more concerned with what Jimx is talking about. I want to go with the softest pushrod I can find that will still hold up reliably to every day driving. Like JimX said when you strengthen one part of the valvetrain another becomes the weak link. I was hoping to keep the valves stronger than the pushrods .

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

MTI told me to use hardened p-rods when I bought my B1, so I did. But that was back in '01, maybe more people have disproved this theroy by now?

smokin' joe 00 ss

I see your point, I'm running the Isky 295 springs so I went with the Hardened push rods.

niphilli

Guys, I really do not know what the answer on this one is. Just a theory. I just wanted to see if anyone who has used the stockers has had problems?

Anyone from MTI want to chime in?

SLowETz

iTrader: (12)

You won't need to shift that high(6300)w/a T1 IMHO. My old T1 was out of breath by 6k, but pulled hard to that point. That cam w/TEA 5.3's and full bolt on's went 416.4/405.2 on a GOOD tune. I know that cam should have pulled to ~6600, but in my case it did not.....can't speak of others w/that cam. I'm not a believer in spinning it beyond wherever peak power is made and levels off,.... just for the thrill of it.

With that said, you prolly aren't going to need insane spring pressures, as w/a lower shift point the risk of valve float is lower. I ran hardened PR's on a 918/947 w/that cam, but think you are prolly safe w/stock 7.40" PR's.

With the added lateral strengh associated w/hardened PR's, you are also eliminateing any lateral deflection that could occur at high shift point/rpms. Your theory on keeping the PR the weak link is a good one, as long as you know your motor's(and your)limitations. No over revs/missed shifts and I think you would be fine.....on the flip side, if you're ever going to upgrade to a bigger stick/springs, the PR's are already there. If that's the case(or may be), use the hardened PR's, don't blow a shift, and spin it till you see the face of God.....

niphilli

This is good news, god knows I do not want to spin this motor to the moon just for the hell of it. Most I have read say that it will peak around 6200, but if that is closer to 6000 I am a happy camper.

I am going to use 918s

BTW: did you have much of a problem with hot starts and idle before your tune? Hoping to get away with no tune for a while if the ATAP logs look good.

SLowETz

iTrader: (12)

It'll run in an M6 on a stock tune but you'll prolly need to drill out the TB blade a bit to get your idle. Hot starts were not an issue on my combo. You're A/F will be ugly. I was real lean but compensated w/MAFT(remember those??? ) Nut up for a tune, get the max thart stick has to offer, know yer Chit is right and you'll be happier for it

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I have known more than a few people running T1/B1 cams with stock tunes for a long time with M6 cars.

My A4 had only an MTI mail order tune and some TB drilling to get it running decent. Then I bought Edit later and made the warm starts and low rpm driving far better.

MTI seemed to do fairly well with the tune for higher rpms, my O2 readings look decent on A-tap. I have not dyno tuned it, nor do I plan to. I'm not looking for every last ounce of power, and it's good enough for my purposes as is.

I don't see any problem running this cam on a stock tuned M6 for as long as you want....

apexman

I installed this cam (T1) just before Thanksgiving. I used the stock pushrods. I make MAX horsepower(365) at 5500 and holds till 6k than starts to fade. I don't care too rev it to the moon so I have the limiter at 6600 and usually shift at 6200. The torque curve is nice and makes MAX torque(385) at 4250!
I am leaving lots on the table as well without LS6 intake, UD pulley, stock cats on Mac Y pipe. I am really pleased with the way the car runs and I drive it every day. Oh, my cam came with 4 degrees adv.

smokin' joe 00 ss

On the dyno my B1 made it's peak power @ 6000 rpm.

00T\A

peak power at 6000 also B-1
392 rwhp sae corrected stock heads all bolt ons no cutout.

niphilli

Oh Wow! I had no idea this cam would peak so low. Even the B1 on 114 peaks at 6000 .

apexman

I love that my cam peaks in low as well as it making 350 tq at 2500. I bought this cam with street, autocross and track days in mind. Midrange is king for me. Also, it was fine on stock tuning (M6) but felt better after tuning.

niphilli

Thanks all~!