sscamaro1384

iTrader: (163)

So about a week ago after a few hard runs,my car developed a ticking noise.it was real faint and only in 1st,2nd but like on the freeway after 55 u couldn t really hear it. it was barely noticeable at idle as well. so i do my research and everyhing seems to be pointing 2 a bad lifter or lifters. i did a head swap maybe like 1500 miles ago and a cam swap maybe like 3000 miles ago. im kinda beating myself up because i didnt swap oil pump and timing chain on cam swap and i didnt swap lifters on the head swap. car has 135k miles. so the ticking has me so paranoid that i pulled the heads last night. inspected the lifters and they all seem fine. no scarring on cam or lifters at all. before i pulled the heads, i did check torque on rocker arms and there was a few(3or 4) that i could spin the pushrod a bit. these are stock 7.4. pushrods. stock 799 heads. u could wiggle the rocker arms, they seemed a little loose but they were at 22 ft lbs. now im glad my block and cam are fine and that the lifters arent beaten to **** but im still confused.by the way, since the noise, my oil psi dropped from 40psi crusin around town to 35psi when warm/hot. i think i read somewhere about a ticking noise related to oil pump and oil pump o ring. anyone have any questions or sugguestions. need to get this back on the road.

sscamaro1384

iTrader: (163)

by the way, until a week ago, the car ran fine and oil psi was great. waiting on ls7 lifters due to arrive in a day or 2.

sscamaro1384

iTrader: (163)

Cmon. anyone got any input?

bigboykilroy

iTrader: (48)

its possible that its the start of a spun bearing, or its also possible the cam and new PR are just starting to take out your old lifters.

sscamaro1384

iTrader: (163)

i just changed lifters. pretty straight forward job. the ticking was still there upon initial startup but went away within 5 minutes. let car warm up.all seemed okay except my oil pressure dropped from 38-40(The oil psi i was getting when ticking but before i changed lifters) down to 20 ish. yikes. not a good felling. im thinking i should go ahead and change the oil pump and o ring.if that dont work then i dont know wtf is going on? I did drain the oil and saw no metal shavings or metallic color in the oil

Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

Did you swap your older lifters for the "LS7" style lifter? If so, your 7.4 pushrods may be giving you too much lifter preload, as the plunger on the ls7 lifter sits around .050-.060 higher than the original ls1 style lifter from factory.

Do you have an adj. pushrod to measure for proper length?

sscamaro1384

iTrader: (163)

would this cause a drop in oil psi? took the car to work 2day and it went way down to like 10psi. and car temp went to like 240. so i shut it down. let it cool for a little while and drove another couple miles to work. oil psi rides at 16-20. and doesn not increase when u apply the gas. im thinking my bottom end may be done for.

follet30

iTrader: (8)

Last time that happened to me is when i had to rebuild my LT1. I had a spun bearing so i stroked it to a 383. Gl on your build lol, i hope i am wrong for your sake.

DVS99TRANS

iTrader: (7)

I had a similar problem but mine got more pronounce quickly. I thought it was a lifter but turned out to be a bearing. Luckily, I didn't allow it to destroy heads, cam, and valvetrain which I am still using. that is definitely low for oil pressure bro. I hate to say it, but I would check the oil pump o-ring if you messed with the oil pump during the lifter install. Without it sealed properly will drop it instantly, that's if you did though. I seriously hope you don't have follet30's and my luck bro.

Squirts11 is right though, but I don't think that would drop your oil pressure at all. The cups are different, and do need a change regardless. Plus you could change your oil sending sensor behind the intake manifold. They can be really easy to hurt if you banged it to much during the install. Just throwing out some possibilities though fella. Plus if you still have the old oil filter laying around, crack it open and look for a good amount of metal. If you find it, could be bad.

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

What valve springs are you running?

sscamaro1384

iTrader: (163)

they were on the heads when i bought them. im pretty sure they are comp 918s

sscamaro1384

iTrader: (163)

Update. i changed my oil pump and oil pump o ring. running a stock ls6 oil pump. Now i have the oil pressure back to 38- 40 at hot idle and increases when gas is applied. But my ticking is still there. im hoping and thinking this may be a pushrod issue. Im running stock unmilled ls6 heads ,stock fel pro head gaskets and now i have ls7 lifters. pushrods are 7.40 length. The ticking is present when cruising around 2500-3000 rpms . When i pop the valve cover i can spin some of my pushrods even though they are at 22 ft lbs. i did see a lengthy gm rocker arm tightening sequence on here somewhere which i did not follow. maybe i should have, instead i just tightened to 22ftlbs. am i running the correct length pushrod? what size should i be running? any insight is appreciated.

sscamaro1384

iTrader: (163)

C'mon need some help here

94lt105

iTrader: (1)

Try a 7.450 or 7.460! That might do the trick! I'm not sure what else it could be! If I were You i would be careful every time u drive it! Hell if it were me I would pull the motor and see what the bottom end looks like! Let us know what happens!

Vince

wisker27

Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift , and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. The engine firing order is 1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3. Cylinders 1,3,5, and 7 are left bank. Cylinder 2,4,6, and 8 are right bank.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: Tighten
Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1,2,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 1,3,4, and 5 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: Tighten
Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3,4,5, and 6 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 2,6,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).


FULL PDF FILE ATTACHED !!!!

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

if i remember correctly, the LS7 lifters require MORE preload than the stockers.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

dont *try* anything. do it once do it right. measure for correct length.

94lt105

iTrader: (1)

My bad.. Was typing n didn't really pay attention i guess! Follow what wisker said and see if that helps/works! Have fun

Vince

danbap

iTrader: (6)

this is what i dont understand. the ls7 lifter is the replacement lifter for the ls1. i dont think the dealer is measuring for pushrods if some one brings in a car or a truck that has a bad lifter, and i dont think they are ordering pushrods with the lifters. im just thinking out loud here but if the ls7 lifters cup is taller and they require more preload it sounds like they are a drop in item?

500@10psi

iTrader: (5)

i know for a fact that with a stock cam when i put my ls7 lifters in, the stock pushrods would hold the valves open. i went with a 7.350 ( about .035 shorter than stock) and i can only hear the injectors