03 cobra problem
07-20-2010, 07:42 PM
#1
03 cobra problem Ok I live in a town where everyone and there grandma has a 03 cobra, about 6 of them are just plain sick. Need some attack plans I got a bolt on 99ss m6 was thinking h/c/spray, cam I was thinking ms3 or 4, heads not to sure about yet . But for sure I was gonna run 100 shot . What combo would you guys go with. I know there nasty cars ride in my buddys all the time his puts down 600 easy. He's on another level though. But I'm sick of gettin picked on guys I got some cash together and ready to spend. I ask you guys instead of a shop because I want to hear what you guys have put together and my best options. If this sounds kinda noob I kinda am to ls1s .this is my second summer with the car, I love it ,just want it to be more than it is,thanks and god bless you guys
07-20-2010, 08:35 PM
#7
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I know it costs a lot more but a turbo or sc setup would be a lot more reliable than nitrous.
Good way to blow the engine a lot of times.
I would save the money for a turbo before id run nitrous in my own car.
Good way to blow the engine a lot of times.
I would save the money for a turbo before id run nitrous in my own car.
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07-20-2010, 11:16 PM
#8
i agree though. i say get a good h/c combo. and if you can swing it get a fast intake. If you still have trouble beating them or just want something more, then throw on a 150 shot for the "just in case" situations.
07-21-2010, 01:12 AM
#10
No lag time with nitrous.
Not to mention you can spray any CR. He would have to figure out how to drop down compression on the cheap...well, i hate to tell you but that involves shortblock work. Again, add that to the cost of just the turbo/sc kit. It gets to the point to where you may just go out and buy an 03 Cobra yourself and just join the masses.
07-21-2010, 01:50 AM
#14
If he does that, again, he is going to have to drop his compression to a safe spot to run a good amount of boost. The right way to drop compression is in the bottom end. The heads will just help you move a little in each way. Being restricted to 7lbs on the conservative side isnt going to do what he is wanting.
07-21-2010, 02:02 AM
#15
Grab a set of PRC 5.3 heads, cam in the mid 230's to low 240's, set of rod bolts, and a 150 plate kit. Grab a dry kit if you dont mind buying bigger injectors. 600 at the wheels all day. You will most likely have to flycut the pistons a little but it will be well worth it. Get the compression around 11:1-11.5:1
Took some pretty big time cobras to school with that setup. 600hp and 7000 rpm will take out ALOT.
Took some pretty big time cobras to school with that setup. 600hp and 7000 rpm will take out ALOT.
07-21-2010, 02:21 AM
#16
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Yes most ported blower cobras with full suporting mods dyno between 490-520rwhp,
Id say a H/C/I Nitrous LS1 would and should absolutely rape a ported cobra and for KB and whippled should still be up a couple cars in a race
For the mods, I would contact a sponsor for a custom cam, match some heads to that and some spray and I think your problem will be solved
As for the comment on nitrous I have ran it for years with it on my setup and not 1 problem. Nitrous can be very effective and safe if you have everything setup correctly
Id say a H/C/I Nitrous LS1 would and should absolutely rape a ported cobra and for KB and whippled should still be up a couple cars in a race
For the mods, I would contact a sponsor for a custom cam, match some heads to that and some spray and I think your problem will be solved
As for the comment on nitrous I have ran it for years with it on my setup and not 1 problem. Nitrous can be very effective and safe if you have everything setup correctly
07-21-2010, 02:39 AM
#17
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If building a new motor is not in the cards then making around 450rwhp and then adding a 100-150 shot is getting to the limit of the stock pistons isn't it? I know that lots of people have stock motors that can take alot but there are also lots of people that brake pistons with that kind of power....If your looking to beat on blown stangs night after night then maby you should be looking to build a forged 346(so you don't blow up the stock shortblock in front of mustang guys)with stock ported heads a custom cam and buy a D1SC procharger.
These motors are not cheep and spending money to make it fast only to have a weak stock piston melt or brake or have a rod brake and open up the block sucks big time. So if you are going to do the head, cam, intake deal and add some spray, you'd better listen to what these guys are saying when then they tell you it's gotta have a GOOD tune becasue if it's not your running a good chance of blowing the motor.
These motors are not cheep and spending money to make it fast only to have a weak stock piston melt or brake or have a rod brake and open up the block sucks big time. So if you are going to do the head, cam, intake deal and add some spray, you'd better listen to what these guys are saying when then they tell you it's gotta have a GOOD tune becasue if it's not your running a good chance of blowing the motor.
07-21-2010, 02:52 AM
#18
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I've been spraying my current motor with 150-200 shot for over 3 years now, drive it the 40 miles in socal traffic to the track(track day is weekly), has always made it back home.
07-21-2010, 04:33 AM
#19
Like everyone is saying and what you said. Good heads (minimal PRC 2.5 5.3s), MS3/4, solid valvetrain, a good nitrous setup and bang on tune. 42# injectors plus rodbolts for now and you should be straight motor wise.
Are you a M6 or A4? If you are a M6; clutch, then have the t56 sent to get atleast a Stage 1 rebuild done to it. You will bend/break the 3-4 shiftfork easy with that power. Rear of course, sorry to sound stereo-typical, with a set of 4.10s to boot. If A4 then get the 4L60 built also with a decent stall (I'm a M6 guy so someone else would know which stall to go with especially with a shot behind it), 3.42s and start thinking about a 12 bolt.
Then start looking into chassis, Lower control arms and Subframe Connectors for sure but you could do without an aftermarket Torque Arm unless your looking for hard *** launches at the track.
With all of that done, you would have a reliable car that you shouldn't have to worry about much breaking. But those should be the things you should be looking into. Thats my recommendation bro, power is easy to make but what fun is it if it keeps breaking the weakest links in the car.
Are you a M6 or A4? If you are a M6; clutch, then have the t56 sent to get atleast a Stage 1 rebuild done to it. You will bend/break the 3-4 shiftfork easy with that power. Rear of course, sorry to sound stereo-typical, with a set of 4.10s to boot. If A4 then get the 4L60 built also with a decent stall (I'm a M6 guy so someone else would know which stall to go with especially with a shot behind it), 3.42s and start thinking about a 12 bolt.
Then start looking into chassis, Lower control arms and Subframe Connectors for sure but you could do without an aftermarket Torque Arm unless your looking for hard *** launches at the track.
With all of that done, you would have a reliable car that you shouldn't have to worry about much breaking. But those should be the things you should be looking into. Thats my recommendation bro, power is easy to make but what fun is it if it keeps breaking the weakest links in the car.
